Yeah, could you imagine the damage to truck/plow if factory used down pressure on a front mold board lol. Far as I know Blizzard and Fisher are only 2 players who use a ram only for up/down cycle of the plow, but when down its in float mode. Many guys out east with Blizzard plows would add extra solenoids and external switch to ADD down pressure for back dragging from a dock or overhead door situation, but never in a forward motion plowing application just because massive damage will soon happen weather to vehicle/plow or to property itself you'd be liable to repair in spring.
Plow feet have always just been door stops or thrown in recycle bin the last 20+yrs we've plowed with equipment. Even full size plows, the small foot print is not enough to displace the weight of not only the mold board, but also the snow load since if attack angle on the blade is properly set, the force of the snow against the mold.board naturally makes it want to drive itself down to the surface to help peel the snow. They just don't work as intended on dirt/gravel as they will still dig trenches each pass.
The only thing I found to work worth a crap for this atv plow to stop rock/grass damage is to slit a 2" black plastic ABS pipe on the table saw, then use a maul to tap it over the cutting edge. I have 1" clean rock in my drive for drainage reasons (no lime binder) and this leaves about a 1/8" skim coat of snow over the rock, while not moving the rock from 1 location to the other. Same goes for the neighbors with 3/4" lime for their driveway, it just floats over the rock without digging in. Nice not to have to regrate in the spring time.
Good luck, know all about great ideas, trial and error. Been there done that, even ditched the ridiculous round shoe since that's a failed design and built a set of sled runner looking shoes. Nothing comes close to the abs pipe over the mold.board as far as plowing loose substrate and leaving it in place.
2014 Sportsman 550 named "Chapter 7"
Lots of mods and add ons