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Old 10-01-2016, 10:20 PM
JackG79's Avatar
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Better Shoes/Feet for my Plow

So I got one of the Polaris Glacier Pro Plows with my ATV when I bought it. One thing that bothered me was the little tiny Aluminum/Tin feet that were on it. With all the heavy ice and snow we get here on the Canadian border of upstate ny, i knew these things wouldn't hold up well. They feel cheap and light in your hands. So I made up a set on a CNC Mill at a local automated foundry where a friend work.

Here is a comparison if on the Old feet, and the new feet I made up.



The foot on the left, is the original, and weighs about half a pound, at best. The one on the right is made from hardened steel, and weighs about 12 pounds. Adding MUCH needed weight to the 60in Glacier Pro Plow. These plows function on weight only, as there is no downward hydraulic pressure as there is in a plow truck. The added weight should aid in a better outcome.

Here is another view


The Bottoms:



And here they are on the Plow:


Closer views:

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Old 10-02-2016, 06:28 AM
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Plows on pickups function on weight only. Even the big Topkick and OshKosh Town, County, and State trucks just use the hydraulics to angle, lift, and hold the heavy plow off the pavement. The hydraulic cylinder pushes up a boom that lifts a chain attached to the plow frame. Some wing plows may be different but I doubt it. I setup a buddies Plastic blade frame to carry locked down tractor weights to make up for the fact that the plastic blade sometimes would not collapse the lift piston.

The down control position bypasses the check valving to allow the cylinder collapse with little resistance. This is why the down control position doesn't have return springs like L, R, & Up. To make my old 1977 plow and field truck three season ready at the end of winter I set the plow control in DOWN and lean on the boom til the piston is completely collapsed into and shrouded by the oil filled cylinder and nose seals. I also swap all the oil in the whole plow system with fresh hydraulic oil. Ice can and does adhere to the angle and lift pistons allowing solid water to sneak by the seals and contaminate the hydraulic oil one or two drops at a time.

Shoes are intended for use on gravel and dirt to keep from excavating all winter and piling it up along with the snow. They really shouldn't see any use if you have a concrete or paved driveway. I always thought it would be nice to have em a lot larger diameter with dished sides to keep from digging trenches in the gravel.

The shoes on my 1970's 7.5' Fisher blade are just 10ga steel. I don't use em except on gravel and dirt. I just inspect the hardened cutting edge and replace as needed in the spring. Plow parts are cheap in the spring and it's not the end of the world if I have to wait 1-3 weeks for em. I have to laugh at the guys running around in panic mode in late fall after other folks have snarfed up the parts they need. I install and test in Sept just to be sure nothing has happened to it. Usually that's all I need to do.

Last edited by hatzie; 10-02-2016 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:12 AM
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Yeah, could you imagine the damage to truck/plow if factory used down pressure on a front mold board lol. Far as I know Blizzard and Fisher are only 2 players who use a ram only for up/down cycle of the plow, but when down its in float mode. Many guys out east with Blizzard plows would add extra solenoids and external switch to ADD down pressure for back dragging from a dock or overhead door situation, but never in a forward motion plowing application just because massive damage will soon happen weather to vehicle/plow or to property itself you'd be liable to repair in spring.

Plow feet have always just been door stops or thrown in recycle bin the last 20+yrs we've plowed with equipment. Even full size plows, the small foot print is not enough to displace the weight of not only the mold board, but also the snow load since if attack angle on the blade is properly set, the force of the snow against the mold.board naturally makes it want to drive itself down to the surface to help peel the snow. They just don't work as intended on dirt/gravel as they will still dig trenches each pass.

The only thing I found to work worth a crap for this atv plow to stop rock/grass damage is to slit a 2" black plastic ABS pipe on the table saw, then use a maul to tap it over the cutting edge. I have 1" clean rock in my drive for drainage reasons (no lime binder) and this leaves about a 1/8" skim coat of snow over the rock, while not moving the rock from 1 location to the other. Same goes for the neighbors with 3/4" lime for their driveway, it just floats over the rock without digging in. Nice not to have to regrate in the spring time.

Good luck, know all about great ideas, trial and error. Been there done that, even ditched the ridiculous round shoe since that's a failed design and built a set of sled runner looking shoes. Nothing comes close to the abs pipe over the mold.board as far as plowing loose substrate and leaving it in place.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:38 AM
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HDPE pipe over the cutting edge is a darn good idear for the dirt & gravel folks.
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
HDPE pipe over the cutting edge is a darn good idear for the dirt & gravel folks.
This is actually a pretty good idea. I will be trying out come snow.
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2016 Polaris Sportsman 850 SP Metallic

2000 Suzuki Quadrunner LT 500 (*sold*)

2001 Suzuki King Quad 300(*sold*)

2005 Yamaha Grizzly 660 (Blue)(*sold*)
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Past ATV's: (Classics)
1984 Honda 185S
1984 Big Red (ATC200ES)
1986 FourTrax 125
1986 Honda ATC 250R
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:33 AM
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Had the same idea, made them last year. Round piece of steel and made it cone shape on bottom. Washers are my spacers, take a few out when I want to get closer to the ground.
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Last edited by thewayout; 10-02-2016 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 10-02-2016, 02:11 PM
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Here's mine I use. It's getting easier to install/remove as it wears itself over cutting edge bolts. 1st install had to whack it on pretty hard to drive it on all the way, but now it's almost to the point of no hammer required. Could've opened the slot a little more than saw blade width too.



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Old 10-02-2016, 06:35 PM
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i use a 2'' steel pipe,my driveway is 2 miles long and the ABS won't last long
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Old 10-02-2016, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cariboo View Post
i use a 2'' steel pipe,my driveway is 2 miles long and the ABS won't last long
Lol, yeah, you'd have to have some sticks on standby lol. For us common folks with standard driveways, it lasts awhile. Last yr barely scuffed it down, so if I can get 2yrs, thats 4yrs on 1 10' stick at $8. Originally I made one from some 3/4" pipe I had, wasn't big enough and dug down, thats when I gave the 2" abs a shot. Could fab one from 2" and make it easy on/off with hitch pins, just have to see how bored I get this winter
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:59 AM
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Nice work Jack. I just welded some 1/2" or so metal plates on the bottom of my stock feet.use washers to adjust the up and down. The stock pads wore through the first time I plowed with it.

How does the pipe work on pavement? I got steep gravel driveway a few hundred yards long then have to plow a lil bit on side of state road. Worried that if I put pipe on it I won't be able to get enough snow off the paved part.
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