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Old 05-04-2011, 09:51 AM
mariano550's Avatar
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Auxiliary light, switch, relay question

Hello everyone, I know you can give some directions with this.

I have everything ready to connect auxiliary lights to my 550 XP.

I have a pair of Hella FF50 with a Hid Kit, relay, fuses and switch. Everything tested and working.

My question is, as you know, Polaris 550 XP has extra hot wires (key turned on) under the pod, and I need 2 hot wires for my installation: 1 for the switch and 1 for the relay.

I will take this hot wire to connect it to the switch...may I use the same wire to connect it to the relay or should I connect the relay straight to the battery ?

Thanks in advance for your help

Mariano
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:25 AM
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I would connect the relay directly to the battery. The idea of a relay is not not have high current passing through a switch. The power wire for the switch can be a smaller gauge wire than the wire to run the relay and lights. Also don't forget to fuse BOTH the wires coming off the battery.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:32 AM
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Thanks for your answer. Yes, that's the idea of a relay and I have both positives behind a fuse.

Thanks again!
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:09 AM
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I do not understand the two positives.

As stated the really is for power and a lo-voltage to the switch as a trigger.

The relay will have one ground one power. Power should be fused. Then it could have one or two wires for the accessory. In your case light. If only one wire you simply split it for the two lights.
Then last is the trigger wire. This is connected to what ever you want the lights to come on with. Like existing lo beams. Or pod lite.
You could switch the ground wire but that would require a high amperage switch. Or you could switch the trigger wire. This is what I suggest.

Good luck,

CW
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Next mods: Thor fender flairs & 800 Head pipes.

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Old 05-04-2011, 11:19 AM
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CW, the trigger wire is coming from the switch. And I need a positive for the switch because it has a light.

In the image you can see the diagram I'm usign.




Thanks for your help
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:22 AM
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If the trigger wire is positive, then you need a positive wire into the switch. That's where the second power wire is needed.

The other option is to run the relay with a negative trigger. to do this you would run a power wire from the battery to pin 30 of the relay, then jump power from pin 30 to pin 86. Pin 87 would be the output to the actual lights and pin 85 would be connected to the switch. The other side of the switch would go to ground.

If the switch is illuminated it changes how it needs to be wired and I can't remember how they are wired.

Hope it clears it up a little. There are other ways to wire things and everybody has their own style. I used to install car stereos, alarms and remote starters and used relays a lot. But I had to really think about it before connecting the wires each time.
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:33 AM
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Thanks again!!
You can see the way I'm connecting everything in the above diagram. I tested it and works perfect!
My question was about the power on the Pin 30 of the relay. I believe that I must wire it directly to the battery, and I will use an extra hot key wire under the pod for the switch.

Thanks everyone
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:25 PM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by mariano550 View Post
Thanks again!!
You can see the way I'm connecting everything in the above diagram. I tested it and works perfect!
My question was about the power on the Pin 30 of the relay. I believe that I must wire it directly to the battery, and I will use an extra hot key wire under the pod for the switch.

Thanks everyone
AHHHH.. a LIGHTED switch!! Of coarse!! Didn't think of that...

Other than that the drawings look good. YES the power needs to be direct to the battery. You should also run a fair sized wire. DC is like a water pipe, bigger is more flow. Heat is the enemy, heat in a DC wiring loom is resistance. Big wire is less resistance.... So run bigger wire. the ground is also best run directly to the battery, but is acceptable securely grounded to the frame.

CW
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Mine
2007 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI
Running 26" Maxxis Big Horns on Crusher Black alloy rims, 1.25'' Spacers, EPI clutch kit W/spring mods, HD springs F&R, Moose front/Ricochet rear CV guards, Moose tank bag, Polaris rack extensions, Lock-N-Ride lo & hi windshields, Acerbis hand guards, CUSTOM mirrors & mounts . A 3000# Gorilla winch, W/Am-Steel blue synthetic line, running thru a winch saver and an aluminum fairleed. Thor's foot pegs and CUSTOM rear rack support frame. L&R WES seat box W/LED light & internal 12V plug. L&R Sportsman Box W/ internal 12V plug. CUSTOM front and rear mud flaps, CUSTOM dual side mounted 1.5 Gal Kolpin gas cans, Modified stock muffler with a rear exit & 800 air box lid W/UNI air filter, for better flow in & out.

Next mods: Thor fender flairs & 800 Head pipes.

CALL Thor @ www.TheATVSuperStore.com - 815-321-3888

Check out my ATV videos and please subscribe!! https://www.youtube.com/user/cwlongshot

I PROUDLY SUPPORT OUR TROOPS!!
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Old 05-04-2011, 04:11 PM
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Thanks a lot CW !!
I will use a 4mm wire directly to the battery for positive and ground.

Thanks again everyone!!
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:01 AM
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I did something similar but now your lights will come on without the ignition switch on. What I'm doing to mine is finding the "switch power" available in the pod. Connecting that through the light switch to the coil on the relay. Leaving the the straight battery connected to the lights through a fused line on the relay contacts. That way if the ignition switch is turned off, the coil has no power and the lights go dark. I don't want to find my battery dead because someone or something turned my lights on. Just a thought...
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