When you get the new bearings, you will need to pack them with grease. Buy a tub of heavy duty wheel bearing grease (Walmart) and have some shop rags on hand. Put about 1/4 cup of grease in the palm of your hand and press the larger side of the bearing into the grease until it comes out the other side. Keep repeating this until grease comes out the smaller side all the way around. I usually then rotate the bearing a couple of times and do it all over again. The bearing should be tough to spin when finished because its full of grease. Might as well do them all.
Install. Put the whole thing back together. A new cotter pin is useful. Tighten the castle nut, spin the wheel, tighten the castle nut, spin the wheel, until you cannot tighten the castle nut anymore by hand. Then back off the castle nut until the cotter pin hole is visable through the castle nut. No more than about 1/8" turn.
The test to see if the back off was too much is grab the wheel and move side to side to feel for any looseness between the bearing and the bearing races. Typically there is none, but if there is, the bearing races may be worn out. Which means a new hub. Your not move the steering, the looseness will be felt at less than 1/8 inch side to side if there is any. Put the cotter pin in, long side of the cotter pin outwards. Using pliers, bend the cotter pin around the end of the shaft. If the cotter pin is too long past the shaft end, just cut it or saw it shorter after bending.
2010 Polaris 850 XP, Warn XP-30 Winch, KFI Winch Mount, Steel Front & Rear Rack Extenders
My neighbor called the cops because I was playing Radar Love too loud.... they arrested him.
Last edited by Stealthepooty; 04-07-2011 at 08:54 PM.
Reason: Added Install Procedure.