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Old 04-05-2011, 03:04 PM
sr975j's Avatar
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need help with the wheel bearing

so i took my hub off of my 2000 scrambler 400 4x4 today and the wheel bearing is shot. ive never replaced a wheel bearing on this quad before so does anyone have any tips, tricks, or a how to?

also, where is a good place to buy parts for this quad online? i cant seem to find a good supplier. i know i can get it from ebay but ive had some bad transactions from ebay and would like to stay away from it.

Sam
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:04 PM
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You should be able to get the bearings at any autopart store or Granger. All you need is the numbers off bearings.
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:22 AM
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The part number on the bearings will be like a L44643 or L44649. Give me the inside measurement and I will get you the part number. You can buy those at a local parts store.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:25 AM
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I just did mine but be careful cause there is another set inside the shock housing that I didnt check and they were the actual problem. To get them out you have to take the u-joint apart on the cv shaft and one is inside the shock housing, the other goes in from the outside. These bearings and the others will match up with boat trailor bearings and the part number that was listed above is correct. Hope this helps. I ended up getting a new set(2) at a boat dealership for like 11 dollars. They were on the wall not in the back parts section.
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamilton View Post
I just did mine but be careful cause there is another set inside the shock housing that I didnt check and they were the actual problem. To get them out you have to take the u-joint apart on the cv shaft and one is inside the shock housing, the other goes in from the outside. These bearings and the others will match up with boat trailor bearings and the part number that was listed above is correct. Hope this helps. I ended up getting a new set(2) at a boat dealership for like 11 dollars. They were on the wall not in the back parts section.
which number was correct? i looked at the bearing and i didnt see any number on it. the bearing was so shot several bearings had fallen out and were just rolling around in the hub.

also, the quad is no longer 4wd. the previous owner took it off for some unknown reason....if this changes anything. it still has the 4x4 hubs but no xv shafts connected.

Sam
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:26 PM
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If your bearings are shot, what is the condition of the bearing cups? If your bearings are damaged and they damaged the cups too, you will need to remove them from the hub and insert new ones. The same goes for the set of bearings in the strut. If the cups are rough and you put new bearings in them, they will not roll smoothly. If your front hubs are the same as my Sportsman, you can tap out the bearing cups with a steel drift. Work your way around the circumference of the cup and work it out evenly, being careful not to scratch the bore. I then took the old cup and gently rolled it over a grinding wheel to remove enough material to allow it to slide easily back into the hub/strut bore, so that I could use it with a hammer to tap the new cups into the bores. I froze the cups in the freezer over night to shrink them a little, I sprayed WD-40 on them and I gently tapped the cup, very evenly, into the bore, until it was level with the edge of the bore. I then used the re-sized ( used) cup to finish putting the new cup into the bottom of the bore, by setting it on top of the new one while I continued tapping with a hammer. The bearings and cups are slightly larger in the strut, so I ground down a used race from each to use as a makeshift tool. Be careful to place the bearing cups facing the right direction, because they are tapered. I'm sure that there are better ways, but this is what I did. BTW, when I bought my bearing kits, they included the cups with the bearings and all seals too.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:39 PM
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When you get the new bearings, you will need to pack them with grease. Buy a tub of heavy duty wheel bearing grease (Walmart) and have some shop rags on hand. Put about 1/4 cup of grease in the palm of your hand and press the larger side of the bearing into the grease until it comes out the other side. Keep repeating this until grease comes out the smaller side all the way around. I usually then rotate the bearing a couple of times and do it all over again. The bearing should be tough to spin when finished because its full of grease. Might as well do them all.

Install. Put the whole thing back together. A new cotter pin is useful. Tighten the castle nut, spin the wheel, tighten the castle nut, spin the wheel, until you cannot tighten the castle nut anymore by hand. Then back off the castle nut until the cotter pin hole is visable through the castle nut. No more than about 1/8" turn.

The test to see if the back off was too much is grab the wheel and move side to side to feel for any looseness between the bearing and the bearing races. Typically there is none, but if there is, the bearing races may be worn out. Which means a new hub. Your not move the steering, the looseness will be felt at less than 1/8 inch side to side if there is any. Put the cotter pin in, long side of the cotter pin outwards. Using pliers, bend the cotter pin around the end of the shaft. If the cotter pin is too long past the shaft end, just cut it or saw it shorter after bending.
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Last edited by Stealthepooty; 04-07-2011 at 08:54 PM. Reason: Added Install Procedure.
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sr975j View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamilton View Post
I just did mine but be careful cause there is another set inside the shock housing that I didnt check and they were the actual problem. To get them out you have to take the u-joint apart on the cv shaft and one is inside the shock housing, the other goes in from the outside. These bearings and the others will match up with boat trailor bearings and the part number that was listed above is correct. Hope this helps. I ended up getting a new set(2) at a boat dealership for like 11 dollars. They were on the wall not in the back parts section.
which number was correct? i looked at the bearing and i didnt see any number on it. the bearing was so shot several bearings had fallen out and were just rolling around in the hub.

also, the quad is no longer 4wd. the previous owner took it off for some unknown reason....if this changes anything. it still has the 4x4 hubs but no xv shafts connected.

Sam
Give me the inside measurement of your old bearing and I will give you the part #. Thanks
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2008 Dodge Caliper
2010 Chevrolet Equinox
2004 Honda ForemanES 400 4x4
(Currently I don't own a Polaris but I work on them all the time and get to ride cutomers for test rides. Maybe soon I will be a Polaris owner.)
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealthepooty View Post
When you get the new bearings, you will need to pack them with grease.
I believe that these bearings are lubricated by the fluid in the hubs. The grease would only contaminate the Demand Drive fluid in the hub.

Install. Put the whole thing back together. A new cotter pin is useful. Tighten the castle nut, spin the wheel, tighten the castle nut, spin the wheel, until you cannot tighten the castle nut anymore by hand. Then back off the castle nut until the cotter pin hole is visable through the castle nut. No more than about 1/8" turn.
These MIGHT be OK directions for a seasoned mechanic, but for someone who is asking for help with how to do this, I would suggest that it's better to follow the specific directions found in a service manual. Finger tight for me is very likely not the same torque as finger tight for you. Depending on what finger tight is for him, it could mean a big difference in the longevity of his new wheel bearings.

Typically there is none, but if there is, the bearing races may be worn out. Which means a new hub.
No grease required in the front bearings...the fluid in the front hubs lubes the bearings...the grease would likely contaminate the Demand Drive fluid.

"Finger tight" is not really a good measure of torque, especially for someone with less experience in servicing these quads. It could make a big difference in the longevity of the new bearings if the proper procedure is followed for torquing the axle nuts.
If the bearing race is the same as the bearing cup, you can replace them....no need to replace the hub ( or strut). Just drive them out of the hub (or strut) and put new ones in. The bearing kits that I bought had a new race ( or cup) for each bearing as well as all the seals.
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1985 ATC250 ES (Big Red)
1984 ATC125M
1985 ATC200X
1987 TRX250 Fourtrax

Last edited by Woodsrider; 04-09-2011 at 10:35 AM.
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