2006 polaris sportsman 500 brake lights

GFronk · #1 (**permalink**) 08-04-2011, 06:32 AM

Brake lights stay on without either brake engaged. If the brake lever is engaged, the quad shuts off. I pulled the rear bulbs, and the quad will not shut down with the use of the brakes. However, it will shut down if the lights are turned on (including working lights)...even with the rear bulbs removed. Where should I start looking...are there key points for the light wiring?

I do not think it is necessarily a computer problem, as the pod/displays/AWD all work just fine.

GFronk · #2 (**permalink**) 08-04-2011, 11:51 AM

Ok...this is the update. We were riding and the quad just died. So since then, I've had the ECM replaced and flashed, a new control switch installed (light, kill, etc switch). The pod lit up and engine turned over but no spark. Since this sat since last september, I forgot about the rear brake lights. I installed a bulb, squeezed the brake, and everything died. I checked my wiring on the rear brakes and found nothing amiss. Now I have no power whatsoever on the pod. I do not know where to start with this problem. Every post I have read points to the ECM or PCM but both are fine as it just came back from the shop (that's a long (literally 6 months) story). What is the connection between squeezing the brake and killing the entire quad? Where to start? Any help would be great!

GFronk · #3 (**permalink**) 03-17-2012, 05:26 AM

Revised the above post. Any help would be great!

GFronk · #4 (**permalink**) 03-17-2012, 07:52 AM

took off front box and starting at the brake pressure switch looking for broke or grounded wires. I shouldn't have brake lights with no brake on right? So logically, a wire needs to be grounded or touching another somewhere, cause when I squeeze the brake, everything shuts down from too much juice. My question is, if this is the case, would thise cause the quad to have no spark?

Russ C · #5 (**permalink**) 03-17-2012, 12:19 PM

take front plastic off, and look at wiring by the steering stem, you will have to cut all the tie wraps and get the wiresout of the loom, Ive seen 2 or 3 machines that wires pulled apart in this area, they have wiring too tight around stem then when you turn it eventually pulls wires apart, check from ign switch down .

GFronk · #6 (**permalink**) 03-17-2012, 04:19 PM

started up around the steering stem and didn't find any broken or worn wires. Pulled the brake pressure switch connection off and it was full of stuff. I cleaned that out then moved back to the back and worked my way up to the selenoid. All kinds of crude fell out of there. Nonetheless, I did manage to get the brake light to function properly without losing all power. Only problem is I don't know what I did or where the problem is exactly.

GFronk · #7 (**permalink**) 03-17-2012, 04:35 PM

realized the brake light worked without the air temp sensor hooked up. I plugged the air temp sensor back in and it shut down again. Can a bad air temp sensor do that?

GFronk · #8 (**permalink**) 03-17-2012, 05:24 PM

More research leads me to believe that I should replace both air temp sensors and purchase the stronger wiring harness. I'm still not convinced that this is causing the short when I squeeze the brake???? Any input?

GFronk · #9 (**permalink**) 07-26-2012, 01:42 PM

Well, since I flew solo on this one. I'd like everyone to know that I had a stator wire come loose, hence the reason for no spark. The other problem with the brake was a result of a wire shorting in the sensor/brake circuit. Why they put the brake in the same circuit as the sensors is beyond me. Nonetheless, I am up and running.

Woodyhunter · #10 (**permalink**) 07-28-2012, 10:51 AM

I believe I had the same problem to a degree. Mine started when I rode with the lights on and the kill switch got hot. It cuts on, but if I move the kill switch it dies again. To turn back on I have to cut kill switch off, then on again and power comes back.

I'm about 80% sure it's a bad kill switch. Lord help me if it isn't.

Thanks for your post.