1995 300 2-stroke issues - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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1995 300 2-stroke issues

I bought a 1995 Polaris 300 about 6 months ago and it ran flawlessly each time I would go out to start it up until about a month ago. I noticed that it was becoming harder and harder to start, When I got it there was nothing to it, but then it would take more and more cranks from the starter+some thumb throttle to finally get it to start up. Today I went out to start it and found that i could get it going no matter what I did. So I pulled the spark plug, replaced it, charged and filled the battery cells and still nothing.... I am getting spark at the plug but and not sure where to go to next. Any Ideas? Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 05:11 PM
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Welcome to the board!

I tried setting my password to "penis" but it said my password wasn't long enough...
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 08:38 PM
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Well im having the same problem I think,lol if i read your post right. Same year same model. I am not sure how the spark should look,it looks kinda weak to me. I put a spark tester in the plug boot and the light glows orange(by the way its one of those harbour freight spark tester) so i assume it has good spark. I also tried the plug in the boot and then plug to ground , when I do it that way I get no spark except one time i actually put the plug dead on the exhaust pipe and i got a ok spark. I just replaced the stator with a new to me part...and its getting gas ,casue everytime i pull the plug it has fuel on it.....i sprayed ether in it still not even a pop or a back fire. i marked my old stator b4 i removed it , and replace the new to me stator in its exact spot.Do i need to adjust the stator for optimum spark capacity....Sorry for hogging your thread...PLEASE HELP US !!!!

Reggae
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 09:54 AM
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From my Motorcycle days I learned that if you have spark and fuel and no broken parts that the engine will run once you get things in the right combination.

To diagnose a no start issue I start with spark, if there is spark then I add fuel by way of starting fluid. If I get a pop then I have fuel issues. If you get no pop with starting fluid I go back and look at the spark again. Sometimes a weak spark will show but will not jump the gap when in the cylinder under high compression. Having fuel on the plug can be a bad thing cause a wet plug will not always have spark. fuel fouled engines are a real bear to diagnose because the plug may spark fine till it gets flooded in the engine.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 07:37 PM
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OK thanx ...im looking into the cdi

Reggae
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2011, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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reggae-

Found my issue, talked with my uncle who works as a mechanic and he thought it was the starter so I took it to him and showed him. We went through and got the starter turning with a few taps of a hammer then found the issue when we took out the air filter and exposed the carb. There was gas pooled behind the carb. So we have a flooded engine, so he said to pull the top cap from the carb and turn the engine over a few times. This allowed the engine to purge the gas and increase air intake. Once the engine fired up we immediately cut it and I reassembled the air/carb cover and she fired right up. He told me on an ATV its usually better to turn the gas off after riding it because the float will sometimes get stuck and drip gas into the bowl while sitting thus flooding the thing to no end. He also recommended seafoam while fueling to help clean out any junk thats built up over the years! Hope this Helps ya!
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 11:00 PM
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Question 1995 300 4x4

Have a 93 300. Wristpin bearing diisintegrated causing incredible noise. Rebuilt engine including carb including new slide. Would not run. I noticed sparking where exhaust hit frame. Took off flywheel and found a spring had gotten stuck to flywheel and caused dead short and had to replace CDI, coil and regulator. Started up but ran poorly if at all. Cleaned the carb at least 3 times. Put on a new throttle cable because the old one was broken. Still won't run right and/or idle. Any guesses? I'm running out of answers.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 01:18 PM
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engine and trans. Out of 94 300 180 total hrs. Bought new

Quote:
Originally Posted by dadsvenom View Post
Have a 93 300. Wristpin bearing diisintegrated causing incredible noise. Rebuilt engine including carb including new slide. Would not run. I noticed sparking where exhaust hit frame. Took off flywheel and found a spring had gotten stuck to flywheel and caused dead short and had to replace CDI, coil and regulator. Started up but ran poorly if at all. Cleaned the carb at least 3 times. Put on a new throttle cable because the old one was broken. Still won't run right and/or idle. Any guesses? I'm running out of answers.
have 300 1994 engine and trans. Would this help 180 hrs. Contact me
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-03-2015, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reggaerider View Post
Well im having the same problem I think,lol if i read your post right. Same year same model. I am not sure how the spark should look,it looks kinda weak to me. I put a spark tester in the plug boot and the light glows orange(by the way its one of those harbour freight spark tester) so i assume it has good spark. I also tried the plug in the boot and then plug to ground , when I do it that way I get no spark except one time i actually put the plug dead on the exhaust pipe and i got a ok spark. I just replaced the stator with a new to me part...and its getting gas ,casue everytime i pull the plug it has fuel on it.....i sprayed ether in it still not even a pop or a back fire. i marked my old stator b4 i removed it , and replace the new to me stator in its exact spot.Do i need to adjust the stator for optimum spark capacity....Sorry for hogging your thread...PLEASE HELP US !!!!

If your wiring is the same as mine (Trailblazer 250 1999) first locate the brown/white and black/red wires coming from the cdi box going to the stator and test the brown/white with the blk/red coming from the stator. You gotta figure out what that should read for you (on my 250 I got 123.x which is perfect). If that's right on yours then unplug the black wire coming out of the cdi box that controls the kill switch and unplug the black wire that controls your reverse override module and put your spark plug in the boot and touch it to the engine block while you turn the bike and tell me what the color the spark is, you're looking for a constant blue spark.
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