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Old 07-22-2012, 11:29 AM
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Question Demand drive questions

I have an 06 500HO with high miles (5500+)... Awd wouldn't disengage so I pulled the front section out to find typical worm components including what looked like warped armature plate. The wires to the coil were frayed and one broke while I was removing it. I bought a used 'good' unit and hooked it up before I put it in. AWD function worked with my bench test so I installed it. Now it won't engage. Key on I get around 11.5 volts through the connector, running is at 13+. I drained and filled it with fresh demand drive fluid, still no go... Resistance on the coil is 27.9 which is high according to the book. What suggestions for my next attemp to figure it out? I tried searching but didn't have much luck. Thanks in advance for your help!
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:48 PM
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I would disconnect the wires to the coil and check for continuity from each wire to the diff case. Coil could be shorted to ground.

Steve


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Old 07-22-2012, 04:03 PM
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Welcome to the board!
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpsteve View Post
I would disconnect the wires to the coil and check for continuity from each wire to the diff case. Coil could be shorted to ground.

Steve


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No continuity to the case but it makes me wonder if the case needs extra ground? Grasping at straws now.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:05 PM
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Welcome to the board!
Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:36 PM
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Bump... Any body have another suggestion?
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Old 08-11-2012, 11:31 AM
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Angry

Another update: I tore the front end apart again, replaced the armature plate, and just ran a few little tests. No matter what I've done so far, the hilliard won't engage and lock the front in.

Resistance through the coil is 27.2 Ohms, voltage at the connector is 10.xx with the key on, engine off. High 13s, low 14s with the engine running. After I hook up the wire connector for the demand drive unit, the voltage across the wires down by the case is only .2 volts.

I will be able to do a comparison on my cousin's '04 400 later this weekend, but I can't believe that it will test similar to the one I'm working with.

Any new suggestions? Can the coil be removed / replaced from the front housing, or am I royally screwed at this point?

Scott
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Old 08-13-2012, 04:53 PM
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Did you replace just the armature plate or the part the wires go to also?



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Old 08-13-2012, 05:20 PM
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I only replaced the armature plate, I'm worried the coil is bad now. Based on what I posted above, is there any ouwr explanation? Can it be replaced without buying the $300 side plate?
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:55 AM
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Talking Update

For future reference in case anyone else runs into a similar problem:

The root cause of the issue with the front drive not locking in is that the switch circuit lost / loses ground under load. The orange wire to the front drive is +12 volts, and the other wire is the ground.

I used a 400 sportsman to trouble shoot, and my diff locked in and released just like new. Back to my quad, we had +12 volts, resistance on the coil was a little high (28 ohms), and when I hooked up the connector, voltage across the wires dropped to 2 - 3 volts. Use test leads to connect power and jump the other side to chassis ground and everything works great.

Long story short, I will tie a new short ground lead into the quad side of the connector, factory switch will actuate the drive, and I don't have to buy a new side cover for $300 to find out the coil isn't the problem.

Thanks for the suggestions, and hope my book reply helps someone in the future.

Scott
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