2007 Sportsman 500 Clutch or Transmission Problems - Drive Belt Slipping in High Gear - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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2007 Sportsman 500 Clutch or Transmission Problems - Drive Belt Slipping in High Gear

Hello,

I have a 2007 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI with high miles on it. I have pretty much rebuilt this machine. Over the weekend, while riding the trail system at Hatfield Mccoy in WV, my ATV would not move when in high gear riding at a high RPM. All the other gears works fine including Low gear. My first assumption was that my transmission was bad. But after further research, I am leaning toward the clutch system. Leading up to the problem, I had to tow 2 other ATVs out of the mountain due to mechanical issues. The drive belt was new. I changed back to the old drive belt and I still have the same problem. I found the forum thread below late last night which shows how the clutch system should work. After work today, I will see if the clutch system is working correctly. How can I rule out that it is not the transmission? If it is the clutch system, do you recommend buying a new (not used) Polaris OEM primary and secondary clutch since the ATV does have high miles? With a new Polaris clutch (primary and/or secondary), do I need to do any calibration? Also what is the best clutch puller to purchase?

Transmission / Clutch Trouble
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 04:46 AM
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Good morning sorry to hear of the troubles!

First off I would pull everything and give it a good cleaning inspection and re surfacing of the sheaves.

The primary is the bugger to remove and a removal tool is pretty much required. Good news is it's not expensive ($40) and it's also easy to make! You need about a foot of 3/4" fine threaded bolt (All thread) a couple 3/4" nuts and then a 5/8" deep well socket.

Remove the bolt holding the primary on, slide the 5/8 socket in its hole (it's just a spacer for this purpose. Now thread in the 3/4" bolt until contact is made with the socket. Now install the two nuts and tighten against each other. Now with a wrench screw the 3/4" bolt in! It will push against the socket that's pressed against the crank end and the force will "pop" the primary off. Yes it will/could make a popping noise as it releases.
The secondary is splined and should slide off once bolt is removed.

Taking the primary apart is more difficult and also required tools or some injinuity on your part. The secondary is under more stress and can be dangerous on some models so be careful. I recommend a good Manuel on your specific model.

I'm betting you will find at best weak springs but worn buttons or weights and glazed sheaves.

Good luck,


CW

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Last edited by cwlongshot; 10-07-2013 at 04:48 AM.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for responding so quickly.. So based on all the information provided, are you leaning toward the fact something is not working correctly in the clutch system..The primary and secondary clutch are expensive, but I don't want to be broken down on the trails on my next trip.. I am considering purchasing a new primary and secondary clutch. Is that a smart thing to do?
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 08:01 AM
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Don't go buying clutches until you check out the ones you have. They may just need a few parts which you would likely have to buy on to of new clutches anyway. Springs and weights wear over time and need Rio be replaced. But if you find anything in the primary that would require a complete rebuild of it, many times it is easier to just replace it.that it's because rebuilding one is almost as expensive as replacing it.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 09:31 AM
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EXACTLY!

DONT JUST BUY NEW!!

There are wearsblemits in the clutches. There are a number of good threads on the CVT system. Do a search.

You will have it working 5x5 in no time.

CW

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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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I will try to remove the primary clutch today and post pictures. What are the wearable parts in the clutch I should look at? Do I need any special tools to take the clutch apart to get to the wearable parts? I remember seeing a clutch compression tool on one of the forum thread.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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This afternoon, I watched the clutch system run without the clutch cover on and it seems to be working fine based on the video in this thread...

Transmission / Clutch Trouble

Not sure what's next on the list to check... I hope it's not my transmission.. Any recommendation on next steps....
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 02:53 PM
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If it's only giving you trouble at higher speed, I'd take a look at the sheeve bushings on the driven clutch. When they wear out it will allow the sheeve to wobble, and under enough pressure, it will stick. Generally does this at higher speeds. The buttons in the driven clutch are likely worn out if it's not an EBS system. Both cheap and easy fixes, best of luck to you.

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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboshelby View Post
If it's only giving you trouble at higher speed, I'd take a look at the sheeve bushings on the driven clutch. When they wear out it will allow the sheeve to wobble, and under enough pressure, it will stick. Generally does this at higher speeds. The buttons in the driven clutch are likely worn out if it's not an EBS system. Both cheap and easy fixes, best of luck to you.
Yes.. The problem only occurs in High gear. All the other gears work fine.
I assume the driven clutch is the same as the secondary clutch.. I have attached a breakdown of the driven clutch.. So the sheeve bushing is #1 in the breakdown schematic.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know if the primary and secondary clutch from a 2013 polaris sportsman 500 HO will fit a 2007 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI.
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