This the first forum I've ever used so I hope this works. I have a 2004 700 Sportsman that I'm bringing back from a bad roll over and about 2 or so years of storage. We cleaned the carb and repaired parts. It only ran fine with the air intake cover off for a while. All the sudden it started flooding the engine with fuel fouling plugs over and over. Also where do the two little vacuum port on the upper inlet side of carb connect to? Both right and left vacuum port. We guessed and may be wrong.
that's an easy one. Sitting for two years means you have all kinds of varnish in the fuel system. you need to pull the tank and clean it really well, and probably clean the carb again. I usually use a pressure washer to get all the gunk out.
Here's what I would do.
1) remove the fuel tank and the carb.
2) remove the petcock from the fuel tank
3) totally clean the petcock with carb cleaner, brushes, and a compressor to blow it clean
4) you may want to take this time to replace the fuel line with something new that is more ethanol resistant. your local deal should be able to hook you up for a few bucks
5) replace the external fuel filter
6) with everything removed from the tank blow it out with water and a mild detergent like a drop or two of dish soap
7) drain all the water and rinse well, let it dry completely before assembly
8) now move onto the carb.
9) the problem area is going to be the float seat and valve but you need to make sure everything else is blown clear with carb cleaner. pay special attention to the idle and main jets.
10) remove the float pin and the float arm be very careful no to lose the small spring clip that holds the float needle valve to the float arm.
11) unscrew the float valve seat be very careful not to scratch the seating surface or it will not seal and continue to flood the carb.
12) clean the seat and the needle valve with a soft cloth spray them with a little carb cleaner to soften the varnish and keep wiping until they are clean. the needle valve has a rubber surface be careful not to tear it when wiping it clean. If there are any scratches, tears, or imperfections that cannot be cleaned replace the needle valve and the seat. otherwise it could leak.
13) now remove the jets both idle and main and the slide from the carb (if you have not already) if it has a CV carb be careful not to rip the rubber diaphragm or lose the big spring, and remove the choke valve.
14) now blow through all the tiny holes you see with carb cleaner followed by compressed air. be careful not to blow your parts away. Been there done that, its a cold lonely time searching for microscopic carb parts on a cluttered garage floor. The idea here is that the carb cleaner should flow through all the orifices with ease, and no signs of clogging or poor flow. Just be sure to wear safety glasses, I've seen more then one person shoot themselves in the eyes with carb cleaner while doing this (including myself!)
15) once everything is clean and dry start the assembly in reverse order.
16) the float arm needs to be adjusted so it rests parallel with the carb body when held upside down. You just bend the little arm that rests on the needle valve until the height is right. go slow and small adjustments, you don't want to break the arm, as it is made of soft brass.
after reassembly be sure to adjust your cables properly, both the choke and the carb cables need to be adjusted. Check for and cable binding and address problem areas. The last thing you want is a 700cc stampede on your first ride.
Thanks for the advice. I will check the float valve seat to make sure it's fine. We did clean all the parts of the carb, but it could of gotten clogged with something we missed. The tank was empty when I bought the four wheeler, and we changed the petcock because it was broken. The main issues with this bike is it's had a some parts taken from it before it went into storage. I'm having to reverse engineer the different systems to fine out what's missing. With help we're 90% there. The frame is straight and the motor is strong. so there's hope. I'm going to post some more questions concerning these issues. Maybe you have some answers for me. I do need to know what the top side vacuum ports are on either side of the carb intake. Thanks again.
An empty tank is actually. Worse then a full tank. You can never really get all the gas out of these tanks unless removed. So that means that the gas left in the tank dried in there turning to a glaze. Probably why the petcock was broken. You need to put a new inline filter on there if your not going to flush the tank. Make sure it is a fine cloth type filter not a mesh. Those fine particles of varnish will continue to break off the tank and get stuck in your carb if you don't. Also be sure to set the float level. Sounds like you've got a fun project.
Turns out the needle jet pushed all the way out of it's guide. Looking into the carb the needle jet was visually missing. Well on to the next issue. Thanks again for your help
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