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ATV Wheels & Tires Trying to upgrade the stock Wheels or Tires on your ATV? Post here! Fitment questions, sizes, brands, whatever.

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Old 12-15-2011, 04:34 PM
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aluminum wheels, any drawbacks?

i just picked up two used sportsmans, one came with ITP SS aluminum wheels and the other has steel wheels with bald tires. i'm planning on getting the same wheels for the other one. i was wondering if there are any cons with aluminum wheels besides the price?

i know in general aluminum doesn't bend, it cracks. i dont think i need to worry about cracking them..
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:32 PM
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I cant think of any cons. They weigh less and dont rust. Enough positives that I dont look for any cons.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:59 AM
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No cons for aluminum wheels.
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:12 AM
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thanks. waiting for them to come in. pics to follow
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:36 AM
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MxSuperFly25: Don't forget to check your wheel studs though. I picked up a set of Polaris Alloy wheels with the stock tires on them. They were new. Someone had decided to change wheels and tires on their new ride and was just dumping the stock set. I put the "new" wheels and tires on the '07. Even with the tapered lug nuts, I couldn't get a very good grip on the wheel studs. I later found that when switching to alluminum or alloy rims you need longer wheel studs. Changing them wasn't too hard and I think I got all 16 new studs for $30. But I had already crossthreaded all the lug nuts trying to get them to grab the shorter studs. I was lucky enough not to have to buy new lug nuts. I was able to clean up the messed up threads with a tap and die set.
So just a quick word of experience. If you make this change, check to see if you need longer wheel studs. It may save you a headache down the road. I shudder to think about the miles I put on my machine with only barely there cross threaded lugs holding the tires on.
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Old 12-24-2011, 06:40 AM
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keep a eye on the wheel nuts they like to come loose on aluminum wheels.
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Old 12-24-2011, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KICKER431 View Post
MxSuperFly25: Don't forget to check your wheel studs though. I picked up a set of Polaris Alloy wheels with the stock tires on them. They were new. Someone had decided to change wheels and tires on their new ride and was just dumping the stock set. I put the "new" wheels and tires on the '07. Even with the tapered lug nuts, I couldn't get a very good grip on the wheel studs. I later found that when switching to alluminum or alloy rims you need longer wheel studs. Changing them wasn't too hard and I think I got all 16 new studs for $30. But I had already crossthreaded all the lug nuts trying to get them to grab the shorter studs. I was lucky enough not to have to buy new lug nuts. I was able to clean up the messed up threads with a tap and die set.
So just a quick word of experience. If you make this change, check to see if you need longer wheel studs. It may save you a headache down the road. I shudder to think about the miles I put on my machine with only barely there cross threaded lugs holding the tires on.

will do, thanks for the advice! i have two 01 500HO's and the one has ITP SS wheels with the ITP lugs, and they worked out fine. I ordered the same exact wheel/lugs for the second one so i should be good, but I will double check just in case.
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Old 12-24-2011, 04:33 PM
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Just my 2¢ worth but one drawback with aluminum wheels is the corrosion factor affecting the air tight seal. Particularly around the valve stem. This has been an on going issue with the alloy wheels on my trucks. Steel wheels do not seem to have the "blossoming" corrosion problems associated with aluminum / magnesium counter parts.

Aluminum is one third the weight but the softer density causes it to scratch, dent and bend more easily and that is why aluminum wheels are thicker at all points and need the longer studs.

The unsprung weight of alloy wheels has inertial effects which have both advantages and disadvantages depending on the situation; much like an aluminum vs steel flywheel.
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Old 12-24-2011, 06:38 PM
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well i only know of two (2) drawbacks on alum wheels...
for one, when cornering, (because of alum oxidizing with air) can cause that the tire (rubber part ) to come loose,after this happens you might get sand on the inside.
IF this happens there will be afew pieces of sand/rock anything really between the tire and the wheel which will cause it to leak air... SLOWLY but it will make the tire go flat... had it happen to me while having a 3-4 hour ride..... the tire was fine... stopped for a break... 30-40 mins later... the tire is flat... and inflating it helps temporarily...

the other minus is they scratch....the rim looks ugly after ward...oh and i dont worry about breaking them... never broke a wheel...

hope i helped.
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Old 12-25-2011, 02:45 PM
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If your wheels aren't broke why fix them? cool looking wheels are just that. I would rather spend $ on other ugrades. I live in a rust belt, steel rust alloy corrode just as bad.
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