Place a flathead behind the head of the bottom screw and apply some pressure in while turning the wrench , it will thread back in.
And as for the guy with the problem starting. You wont really know whats wrong till you get everything apart. When you take the recoil housing off you will be able to diagnose both your pull start and your bendix ( = starter drive)
The starter drive is different from the bendix...right? I was going to go with this combo right here...
DB Electrical - STARTER DRIVE Combo POLARIS ATV 325 335 425 500 PA102 COMBO SMU0061K 18645
I was going to assume that I had the same problem as you, or at least it make sense to me that I did from your posts. The bendix is the part that you should of replaced with the starter the first time right? I'm going to replace both when I tear it down, but what are your thoughts?
My particular situation, if the bendix is malfunctioning, then isn't it plausible that it's why the pull-start won't make a compression stroke? The 4-wheeler ran fine right up till it quit starting from the pull-start. Previously, the battery had sat in storage, but it started first try. By the end of the weekend it wouldn't start under the electric start. I used the pull-start till the end of the day (Sunday), got it home, and used the pull-start to get it off the trailer. The next morning, I went to put it up, and the pull-start went limp after the first pull. By limp, I mean it will recoil, but would not make a compression stroke. When I put the new battery in it had the same exact behavior as it did when it wouldn't start before I started to use the pull-start. I even hit the side of the pull case with a rubber mallet as per a thread out here, but it was to no avail.
Now I'm starting to think that the reason some need to hit the pull-start side is, because of the bendix malfunctioning, or ready to fail...
I thought I had a grip on this situation, what do y'all think? Am I wrong on with what I'm assuming?