how to stop a polaris sportsmans belt from slipping

lost cause · #**101** (**permalink**) 01-06-2012, 03:16 PM

If you changed your tire size you need to change your pre-load and weights in the primary and secondary clutches. Otherwise you will be burning up belts until the cows come home. Your problem is not a design flaw of the clutch. It's that you basically changed your gearing and now your clutch is slipping trying to get those big tires rolling. And by the looks of your picture your tire size is about the largest available. I bet if you consult a company that does clutch kits they could set you straight and greatly reduce the belt wear.[/QUOTE]

This is true but it still doesn't change the fact that the polaris is what you call a slip and grip and the yamaha belt is always tight. Also, I only ride in low gear, so there is no issue getting the bike rolling. I never travel more than 15mph due to riding only mud. Like stated 29.5's or stock tires, the sportsman belt will slip slightly due to the engagement, unlike the grizz which is always tight.

lost cause · #**102** (**permalink**) 01-06-2012, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coppertop

i found on my 2010 850 that really deep water it always mad it through but if i get outta hole and give alot of gas it wouldnt move so i drive slowly and wait for it to dry,but never in slipped enuff to make me stop in a big hole or river always made i,personally i dont like the out side colucth cover on polaris doesnt seem nearly water tight enuff but most people say it well leak through backside of ur motor and ur clucth intake first

The clutch does leak on the back side of the primary where the inner clutch cover meets the motor. You need to pull your clutch and silicone around the inner cover. The outer cover usually isn't the issue.

stands22 · #**103** (**permalink**) 01-20-2012, 07:09 PM

my grandfathers ranger burned a flat spot on it one time so he had it fixed because i wasnt around to do it for him and being 84 he wasnt abusing it at all. 2 days later the same thing happened and i was back in town so i got a new belt and looked into what was going on. i jacked up the back and ran it with the cover off to get a look at things and it took off. the front end was stuck locked in turns out it was out of oil and wouldnt alow the hub to disengage. once i got that lined out i got back to my original investigation. turns out the clutch assembly had a marr on it and would catch just a cunt hair before it would go all the way out to release the belt. it wouldnt really grab enough to take off but it was enough to mess the belt up. so i took it apart and cleaned the shaft up with some emry cloth and havent had any problems yet. that was a couple of years ago. not sure if it was a comination of being stuck in 4x4 and the clutch sticking but just though i would share my exerience. granted im not a polaris tech but im sure it would have cost a couple of thousand dollars in parts if he would have taken it back after the second belt. i also put some dry moly lube on the shaft.

idler8 · #**104** (**permalink**) 01-21-2012, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lost cause

If you changed your tire size you need to change your pre-load and weights in the primary and secondary clutches. Otherwise you will be burning up belts until the cows come home. Your problem is not a design flaw of the clutch. It's that you basically changed your gearing and now your clutch is slipping trying to get those big tires rolling. And by the looks of your picture your tire size is about the largest available. I bet if you consult a company that does clutch kits they could set you straight and greatly reduce the belt wear.

This is true but it still doesn't change the fact that the polaris is what you call a slip and grip and the yamaha belt is always tight. Also, I only ride in low gear, so there is no issue getting the bike rolling. I never travel more than 15mph due to riding only mud. Like stated 29.5's or stock tires, the sportsman belt will slip slightly due to the engagement, unlike the grizz which is always tight.[/QUOTE]

If you do a google search on polaris belt slipage, you'll find that there are poeple out there with polaris's that are getting easily over 5000 miles, the yamaha has a wet clutch, like you said, but what most don't know, is the wet clutch's also are pretty bad for robbing HP, which is why polaris and Can am don't use wet clutchs, as well wet clutches also add aditional weight onto a bike. If you truely only use low gear, and your still burning up belts I would say you have some other issue's, as your belt should easily last you 5000+ miles, if you only use low gear, even with your large tires, also a clutch kit to compensate the larger tires wouldn't be bad idea for you as well.

lost cause · #**105** (**permalink**) 01-21-2012, 12:19 PM

I do agree that the wet clutch does rob power and that there are people that have over 5000 miles on their polaris belts. But, in Peanut Butter mud with tires that way 50lbs + per tire, I have found that the polaris clutch system slips where the grizz did not.

mathp · #**106** (**permalink**) 01-21-2012, 03:26 PM

My step daughter rode my 2007 Trail Boss with the brake engaged for a quarter mile or so and it started slapping and smoking. I gather it is the belt and came here to see if it has happened to anyone else. I think I will order a new belt before I even take off the cover and if it isn't the belt then I will have a spare.

I did look for them and everyone uses the same menu's to find parts, and the belt is shown on the graphic as #2 while the part listing says #5. #5 on the graphic is a washer I think. Anyway the part listing #5 says belt and it is $44. Is that about right from your experience?

So where is the best place to get Polaris parts for less?

Thanks,

lasportsman3 · #**107** (**permalink**) 01-30-2012, 03:07 PM

never because of my bike. alcohol and leaving it in high when it should have been in low had a lot to do with it

P_olaris · #**108** (**permalink**) 02-23-2012, 05:10 PM

I really get tired of the belt debate. I have a 2002 400 and a 2005 700. I haven not had a "slippage" problem with either one. I have been in every condition with my machines. I have been in mud up to my rear, crossed deep creeks, up and down grades that most people prefer to go around. Here is the deal. Learn how to ride and your machine and you will never have a problem!!!!!

Both machines are different. I dont think I ever take my 400 out of high gear under most conditions. My 700 however is so much more powerful it needs to be put into low under stressful conditions. If you goose it when it is in a bind you will burn a belt. You can smell the rubber when this happens. If you do this enough you may have a slippage problem. Some of the other brands that people are so proud of have their own limitations. I will take my Polaris any day over an underpowered overpriced Honda.

mountie · #**109** (**permalink**) 02-23-2012, 07:38 PM

How hard is it to change the belt? Also wouldn't it help to buy a high performance belt instead of the factory replacement?

P_olaris · #**110** (**permalink**) 02-24-2012, 06:39 AM

It is not hard. Remove the clutch housing. Rotate the belt off of the driven clutch by pulling it to one side and turning the primary clutch. The new belt goes on the same way. This is similar to how you used to put the chain on a bicycle. You need to know that the belt wears on the outer edges. Look for uneven places or burn marks along the outer edges.

I have always used the OEM belts and not had any problems. As I said in my post most people burn the belt because they do not use low gear properly. Mud holes, crossing ditches, pulling a load, etc. you need to switch to low.