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01-16-2012, 01:32 PM
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Junior Member
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Member #22370
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Great Falls Montana
Posts: 8
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2001 Scrambler 50 Cold Weather Problems
It seems anytime the weather is around 25 or less my sons 50cc scrambler will not move till it runs for around an hour.
Could this be water in the Transmission fluid or the wrong fluid?
How much should be in it and what type?
I have been reading around and not finding anything about the gearbox lube.
Thanks everyone.
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01-16-2012, 03:49 PM
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Polaris ATV Legend
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Member #3687
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: east arkansas
Posts: 2,302
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Welcome to the forum. Unfortanately I can't answer your question. I know on the Sportsman 90 there was a problem with the electric choke not working properly causing the engine not to be able to high enough rpm's to engage the clutch so it would move. Will it run above idle when the throttle is applied? If not that might be your problem. Idk if a 50 had a electric choke or a manual choke. If not that I would look at gearcase fluid for water. Let us know what you find. Maybe someone else will offer some more help.
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01-16-2012, 04:43 PM
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Super Moderator
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Member #193
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Port Angeles WA
Posts: 11,430
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Welcome to the board!
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01-16-2012, 05:36 PM
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Junior Member
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Member #22370
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Great Falls Montana
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tt425
Welcome to the forum. Unfortanately I can't answer your question. I know on the Sportsman 90 there was a problem with the electric choke not working properly causing the engine not to be able to high enough rpm's to engage the clutch so it would move. Will it run above idle when the throttle is applied? If not that might be your problem. Idk if a 50 had a electric choke or a manual choke. If not that I would look at gearcase fluid for water. Let us know what you find. Maybe someone else will offer some more help.
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rpm's go up and no problem it is in the CVT transmission.
it doesnt matter how high you rev it, it is like rear brake is locked. but more in the coutershaft gear locked as brakes are free
i can't push or force rear wheels to move beyond the slack in chain
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01-16-2012, 09:09 PM
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Junior Member
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Member #19160
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 22
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Choke
The electronic choke on these are always in the choke position, the CDI puts an electrical charge to mechanism which pulls the choke off when it is warm. When they work they work great, if its bad its like your choke is always on. We have run ours in cold weather and it works fine. If you left it in a heated garage would it seem to make a difference how it runs?
The transmission parts are pretty solid, just a couple gears. Seen some pretty beat up units that had perfect looking gears in them. Could possibly be something with the clutch or belt?
Another common issue is the cam in the rear brake caliper gets rusted and freezes up. And for that matter all the brakes, every one of these I have owned has had the problem to some degree. If you feel its not the engine but the drive train loosen the chain and take it off, make sure you can spin the rear tires freely and its not the frozen brake issue. If thats ok put the chain back on and pull off the engine cover with the kickstarter and remove the belt, now see if you can freely spin the rear wheels, that will ultimately tell you if its the gears. Inspect your belt and clutches, if their ok spin the primary clutch and at that point I would think about a compression check.
Last edited by onequik1; 01-16-2012 at 09:33 PM.
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01-17-2012, 12:57 AM
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Junior Member
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Member #22370
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Great Falls Montana
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onequik1
The electronic choke on these are always in the choke position, the CDI puts an electrical charge to mechanism which pulls the choke off when it is warm. When they work they work great, if its bad its like your choke is always on. We have run ours in cold weather and it works fine. If you left it in a heated garage would it seem to make a difference how it runs?
The transmission parts are pretty solid, just a couple gears. Seen some pretty beat up units that had perfect looking gears in them. Could possibly be something with the clutch or belt?
Another common issue is the cam in the rear brake caliper gets rusted and freezes up. And for that matter all the brakes, every one of these I have owned has had the problem to some degree. If you feel its not the engine but the drive train loosen the chain and take it off, make sure you can spin the rear tires freely and its not the frozen brake issue. If thats ok put the chain back on and pull off the engine cover with the kickstarter and remove the belt, now see if you can freely spin the rear wheels, that will ultimately tell you if its the gears. Inspect your belt and clutches, if their ok spin the primary clutch and at that point I would think about a compression check.
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brakes work fine and not rusted up, belt looks fine,
How much oil and what type goes in the gearbox?
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01-17-2012, 01:01 AM
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Junior Member
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Member #22370
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Great Falls Montana
Posts: 8
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only starting issue is battery is so small it has a problem starting at below zero but choke works great.
Was 5 below yesterday morning and left it running for an hour then Bingo everything working and got rode for an hour
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01-17-2012, 01:03 AM
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Junior Member
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Member #22370
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Great Falls Montana
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce!
Welcome to the board! 
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Thank!! glad to find a board for polaris
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01-17-2012, 06:58 AM
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Junior Member
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Member #19160
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 22
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The gearlub requirements are Polaris Synthetic Gear Oil, maintenance requires 200ml, a complete swap of gears requires 300ml. Think they sell synthetic ATV lube at the parts store.
I have ran ours at 1-20 degrees and had to wait 5 minutes. I wonder if your at any elevation and need to think about different jetting? You can try to put a piece of tape over the air inlet on the airbox to block some of the air and see if that changes anything.
Additionally if your riding at temps that cold I would make sure since its a 2 cycle that your oil is not gelling up. They do make cold temp 2 cycle oil. It just seems odd it takes an hour to run right in my opinion.
So if I read you last post correctly its not the gears?
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01-17-2012, 07:15 AM
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Junior Member
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Member #22370
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Great Falls Montana
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onequik1
The gearlub requirements are Polaris Synthetic Gear Oil, maintenance requires 200ml, a complete swap of gears requires 300ml. Think they sell synthetic ATV lube at the parts store.
I have ran ours at 1-20 degrees and had to wait 5 minutes. I wonder if your at any elevation and need to think about different jetting? You can try to put a piece of tape over the air inlet on the airbox to block some of the air and see if that changes anything.
Additionally if your riding at temps that cold I would make sure since its a 2 cycle that your oil is not gelling up. They do make cold temp 2 cycle oil. It just seems odd it takes an hour to run right in my opinion.
So if I read you last post correctly its not the gears?
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It runs right, just wont move no matter what I do Figure to drop oil and put some synthetic in as soon as it warms up here, not really sure about the gears but it runs fine when it is 40 out
__________________
2001 scrambler 50
2006 Outty 650
Last edited by wolfmt; 01-17-2012 at 07:19 AM.
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