The stock exhaust is melting the cover on the right side, is there a way to stop this from happening? I have noticed that the machine runs very hot, there are two others I travel with that are the same way. The machines are quite new and the rads are very clean. We were out this past weekend, it was -20 degrees C and the fans were still coming on from time to time, I am guessing they must be running pretty lean from the factory.
I am thinking an aftermarket exhaust (slip on) would help it flow better and reduce the temperature. I would like something that is the same or slightly louder than stock and made out of aluminum to get away from the rust of the stock unit, any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, can I get away without a fuel programmer with a slip on pipe? If not, recommendations for a unit would be appreciated. I would prefer to have something that has three map settings that can be selected with a switch if that is even something offered.
Polaris is currently being investigated for this, there have been lawyers that have called me asking statements about the plastics melting.
As far a your slip on question the the Big Gun Exhaust is best way to go if you don't want a programmer.
Wonder what is happening, my 2016 Touring 850SP has none of these issues and I ride in the desert of El Paso where its typically above 105F in the summer
Not sure about the 2016, but on the older EFI units, they would run lean if the fuel pressure was low. Not low enough to cause it not to run, but on the low end of the range or a little below. They were supposed to be at 39+/-3 psi. If the fuel pumps got weak, or the regulator was a little off on the low side, or the fuel filter got stopped up, they would run hot, and sometimes sputter some also.
Replacing the fuel pump or regulator often not only corrected a sputtering problem, but also a lean condition, and the bikes would then run cooler also.
Since Polaris will not sell the pump or regulator separate from the whole fuel tank, pump, regulator, and sending unit assembly, many people went out and found replacements. Some of the replacement regulators used were actually 3 bar units, which is roughly 44 psi instead of the stock 39 psi. This riches up the mixture considerably since the map is setting the duration of the injector pulses based on an expected 39 psi.
I don't know whether this is applicable to the newer models, but I would check my fuel pressure and compare it to the specs, if it were mine. I would definitely change the fuel pressure regulator if it was on the low side of the specs. I might even look for a slightly higher pressure regulator even if it was to spec, because the EPA has them running so lean to begin with that it is not good for the engine. Don't go crazy overboard, because they will not run also if the regulator quits and they get full pump pressure.
I did as well. Sounds like it's only shields and such. I am surprised they are not doing something to make the machines run a little cooler, like changing the mapping in the ecu to richen it up a bit or something like that.
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