I have a lead on a 2000(the guy believes) Sportsman 500 4x4. I haven't gotten pics yet, but he is asking $700. He said it runs great he just doesn't use it. Has had it almost 4 years and only used it 4 times. So far the only issue he has told me is that when he got it, the front differential needed work and it was too expensive to fix so a shop removed it. I didn't know this was possible, but front differentials on ebay aren't that expensive. Should this be a major red flag? For $700, I'm having trouble saying no as he's only 15 minutes from me.
Pics will come probably tomorrow depending on when he sends them.
I'm probably going to replace the front differential to have the 4wd. I love my 94 sportsman, this one being a few years newer would be nice to have around
Well I bought it! Got it for $500.
It is a 1998 Sportsman 500 4x4.
It needs:
Front diff, shafts that go to front wheels, and the shaft that connects the front diff to the rest.
Carb rebuild
Air box
Clutch cover (it is there, but cracked)
So far that is all it needs. Here are some pictures!
If anyone knows the part # for the shaft that connects to the front differential? Not the shafts that connect to the wheels, but the one that runs down the four wheeler to make it spin.
Prop shaft assembly: 1380115
There's bunches of used ones on ebay for cheap. New from partzilla little over $200.
If you get used and install new greasable u joints it would still be way less than OEM.
Thanks..that part # will help a lot. I will probably go used.
I cleaned the carb today and started it up, runs and idles good now. Shifted it into gear and it lurched forward and died. Put it back in neutral, started it and shifted it into reverse and same problem. Lurched then died. The clutch cover is broken and looks like this. I'm assuming it's a clutch issue - maybe misaligned or something. Hopefully nothing too serious..If anyone has any other knowledge on what it could be let me know!
Oh man! The primary/drive clutch will definitely have to be taken apart and gone through. I can see that its stuck engaged in the pic. The rusty up thingy on top in the pic is one of the fly weights. Those have to pivot FREELY on the pin they mount on. The center on the drive clutch should be flush at rest...not sticking out like it is.
From the looks of it they have been wet a lot and have corroded terribly. The secondary/driven clutch MIGHT be OK but the drive clutch will have to be gone through. I'd do both.
Oh man! The primary/drive clutch will definitely have to be taken apart and gone through. I can see that its stuck engaged in the pic. The rusty up thingy on top in the pic is one of the fly weights. Those have to pivot FREELY on the pin they mount on. The center on the drive clutch should be flush at rest...not sticking out like it is.
From the looks of it they have been wet a lot and have corroded terribly. The secondary/driven clutch MIGHT be OK but the drive clutch will have to be gone through. I'd do both.
There's play in that weight you talked about. It's not stuck or anything. I guess I will take it apart tomorrow. Not what I wanted to hear. Just need to find a manual with the steps to disassembly
Yeah, you are gonna want to take it all apart. The weights might be free, but the rollers they ride against inside the spider could be rusty and/or stuck. Most of the clutch is aluminum, but there are some steel parts in there. Water is not friendly in that combination. To either the aluminum or the steel.
Guessing that you probably already know this, but gonna throw it out there anyway.....Since it was too expensive for the PO to fix the front Diff, and with the clutch cover in that condition, I would give the machine a good going over to find what else was done badly or just let go.
Yeah, you are gonna want to take it all apart. The weights might be free, but the rollers they ride against inside the spider could be rusty and/or stuck. Most of the clutch is aluminum, but there are some steel parts in there. Water is not friendly in that combination. To either the aluminum or the steel.
Guessing that you probably already know this, but gonna throw it out there anyway.....Since it was too expensive for the PO to fix the front Diff, and with the clutch cover in that condition, I would give the machine a good going over to find what else was done badly or just let go.
Going to give it a good look over anyway, I do that on all my used toys. He told me the clutch cover he broke because it would rattle all the time (clearly it was misaligned and he didn't know that). The front diff he said didn't matter to him as where he would be you didn't need the four wheel drive.
I'm not too concerned about it as I know the market in my area. I've found all the used parts for less than $300 together, not including the clutch work. Granted I don't find anything else expensive to fix, I should be in pretty good shape and be able to make $500+ on it if I sell it.
Sounds like you are in pretty good shape with the parts! Clutch can be a bugger sometimes. They are not difficult to take apart, but you have to have some special tools. If you can't get it cleaned up try the Parts Ace clutch through Ebay. Non EBS was less than $200 for a complete unit. Polaris wants $650 for the shell without weights and springs. The Parts Ace piece is a throw away though. No parts available so not rebuildable. As long as your pulley halves aren't messed up I bet you can rebuild your current one for less anyway.
Yesterday when in neutral and giving it gas, the drive clutch still moves in and when releasing the gas it moves back out. I'm hoping the damage isn't as bad as it looks. Most of the "corrosion" on the outside was coming off just running over it a few times with a wire brush. It just seems like it isn't releasing all the way. When I get home I'll take a video of it running to show what the clutch does, maybe it will give you all a better idea on what might be wrong with it
Sounds like you may be able to save it! Mark the outer cap (the one with the 6 bolts) so you can put it back on the same. If you take the 6 bolts out that will let you take that cover off and remove the main spring. Then you should be able to move the spider back and forth without having to fight the spring. When you move it feel for any binding. It will have resistance from the buttons on the end of the spider. There shouldn't be any clearance between the rubber buttons at the end of each spider and the outer pulley half. You can probably get a better look under the spider and see what shape your rollers are in too. They should move freely and not have any flat spots on them.
There are bushings on the inside of the clutch pulleys that can be replaced if that is where the bind it at.
Sounds like you may be able to save it! Mark the outer cap (the one with the 6 bolts) so you can put it back on the same. If you take the 6 bolts out that will let you take that cover off and remove the main spring. Then you should be able to move the spider back and forth without having to fight the spring. When you move it feel for any binding. It will have resistance from the buttons on the end of the spider. There shouldn't be any clearance between the rubber buttons at the end of each spider and the outer pulley half. You can probably get a better look under the spider and see what shape your rollers are in too. They should move freely and not have any flat spots on them.
There are bushings on the inside of the clutch pulleys that can be replaced if that is where the bind it at.
Perfect I'll take a look. Hopefully I can do at least some work without the special tools, at least maybe diagnose the problem. Previous owner told me it was running and driving late last year but he hadn't messed with it in 2017 yet. Will tear into it this evening and see what I can figure out.
As the clutch moves, you can see rust on the center. Gonna have to get that cleaned off. There is a bushing that rides there and that could be the issue. Pull the belt off and take the outer cover off with the spring. You should be able to move the outer half and maybe get that part cleaned up. Best if you could take it apart and see the rest of the shaft to make sure you get all of it.
Makes sense..it seems to be functional otherwise, wouldn't surprise me if that bushing is hitting the rust and stopping. Will pull it off without disassembling the clutch and see if that fixes it. If not, I found a used clutch for $100 about 45 minutes from me as a last resort
Still not disengaging. Cleaned as much rust off as I can, when I took the bolts off I couldn't move the clutch at all. It was stuck in place
Edit: gave it a good whack with a rubber mallet and it moved. seized up with rust. cleaning it now and it's already moving much much smoother
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It's not perfect but for not taking the clutch off the bike it'll do. I put it all back together and it'll go into gear now! Just need to mess with the idle so it won't move forward slowly when I put it in gear, but overall I'm happy so far. Tomorrow I'll order a new cover and such and get this thing ready to go!
I think it would still be in your "best interest" to remove the clutch from the bike, fully dismantle, clean up all rust and re-assemble!!! Clean the sheaves and replace the belt while your at it too!
The "creep" while in gear is due to clutch mis-alignment.... no adjusting of the idle will fix this. But rather if you lower the idle it will likely kill the engine again when put in gear, as the belt is trying to engage with the clutches.... causing the creep. Unless your idle is over 1200+ rpm's?? Then it should be diled back a bit... I believe spec is something like 1100 +/- 50'ish would be better.
Come on man.... Do It Right.... Or Don't Do It At All!!!
My concern with disassembly is if I'm going to have to spend $100+ on the tools alone, I might as well just replace the clutch. The clutch itself looks way better and was very smooth sliding it up and down the shaft.
The reason I believe it's an idle issue is because I had to turn the idle way higher than usual to keep it running. Enough to move the clutch in a bit where it's no longer flush.
I'll mess with the idle first and if that doesn't fix it I'll order a clutch puller, but paying $80ish for a holder and $40+ for a spider tool isn't worth the money if I can buy a used clutch that's functional for around the same $$.
Also going to check the engine mounts. It seemed like giving it throttle moved the clutch around a good amount, wouldn't surprise me if the front mount is broken.
I agree with him, do it right! Especially if you plan to flip this machine for a profit.
Either rebuild the OEM or get a new aftermarket piece. Sounds a lot better to a prospective buyer when you tell them you did it right instead of made it work cheap.
My view of the tool purchase was that every project deserves a new tool......seriously though, I can not tell you how much those tools have saved me since I can do these things myself. If you have the skills, it bugs me to pay someone to do something I can do myself. And you can get the tools cheaper. I wasn't as experienced at the time and got the tools through a Polaris dealership. But I have seen cheaper versions on line. And somewhere on this forum you can find the instructions to build your own. Including the puller. If you search Ebay for your machine and Clutch, they will come up.
Going to look at making the tools myself. Oddly enough, I started it up today and no creep whatsoever when I lowered the idle. I talked to a buddy who has the same machine and he said his does it as well, and he replaced the clutch and aligned it and every now and then it'll roll an inch then stop. The roll isn't a constant creep, every now and then it'll go a tiny bit then stop. Main reason I am stalling on replacing or rebuilding the clutch is because I may do a clutch kit on it anyway if I like how it performs once I get everything else fixed up. It shifted excellent today, reverse and both toward gears worked flawlessly. For now I just want to make sure nothing else is wrong with it before I dump more money into parts just in case I end up parting it out
Some of the older 500's seemed to have cam issues as I recall so be sure to change your oil and filter. I believe that in 2001 they changed something with the HO and the durability improved.
I would disassemble the carb and clean it well to make sure that it's happy. Inspect the intake boots and tune the idle proper. Check the motor mounts as well.
Ordering air box, front gear box, front axles and the shaft today. Still looking for a clutch cover. Waiting for a friend to come back to town and we are going to pull the clutch (he has the puller tool) and clean it up the rest of the way.
Well the air box sold before I could order it..can't find one now.
Need an air box and clutch cover f anyone knows a source let me know.
Ordered front gear box, shaft and front axles today. Got it all for $110..pretty satisfied
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