1995 Sportsman Model/Compatibility Question

[Russ C]

had good luck with Wiseco pistons, ringsand Cometic gaskets,good luck.

[4getful2]

Wiseco pistons

Gaskets and seals: cometic,vesrah.................make sure the bottom end kit contains crankshaft and waterpump seals

check counter balancer bearings

[hhcochris]

Ok, so a bit of an update on the crankcase 1/2's...turns out the 1/2's themselves are junk...the only decent part was the part # 3085650, or part #38 in the diagram. Although I'm disputing the transaction, my real issue is that I'm left searching for another set of crankcase 1/2's...I've called just about every salvage yard and "used ATV parts" store in MN, and no one seems to have what I need...while I'm sure it's the faster (and better choice), I just can't spend like $400.00 on new/OEM...so I'm left to go online...I'm not sure about the forum posting rules (I tried searching a bit, but couldn't find anything), otherwise I would provide the direct links. Anyway, I was wondering if I could get some advice on which one (of these 2) I should get...

The first option came off of a 1999 Sport 400. The description mentions that the crank is stuck/bad, and needs bearings. It comes with both 1/2's, the stuck cranks, and a couple (I assume junk) cables, etc. that are still connected. They cleaned it up some, and it looks decent, but of course, it's hard to get an idea on the overall condition if it's not right in front of you...they do state that all parts are in good usable condition unless noted, and since the only thing noted was the bad bearings, I assume the rest is ok...that's about all the information I have on this one (short of actually posting the link).

The second option comes off of a 1995 400L 2x4. The only thing the description mentions is that it has 1 "tight" bearing. This one's "cleaned up" a little more, which may give a false impression that it's in better condition...but it doesn't look bad...it also looks like it's been "gone over more", in that it just looks like the 1/2's, and that's it (nothing else is connected).

One thing that really has no effect on the condition of either of the two, is shipping time. I can get the 1999 in about a week or so...the 1995 would be about two weeks...just based on that, I would lean towards the 1999 (plus the fact that it's newer, but of course that doesn't always mean better condition). They're both around $160, but the more I look at the pictures, I think I'm making the two seem very similar...I guess I don't know how to differentiate the two, short of saying the 1999 looks like it was just ripped out of the machine quickly and cleaned up a bit, while the 1995 looks like it was methodically taken apart, cleaned, and presented for sale. Again, this may just be a "presentation" issue, and may not mean anything about the overall condition of the parts, but I'm throwing everything out there I can think of to describe the two options...again, if it's OK to post links/pictures, please let me know, and I can give you a better idea of what I'm looking at...

Thanks again,

Chris

[blueline15]

Sorry to hear boss. Please post the links or pictures, you're fine to do so.

The only time it wouldn't be okay is if you were representing a business and linking products you were selling as a business. Unless the business was a site sponsor. You have nothing to worry about.

[hhcochris]

Thanks Blueline,

Here are the links (eBay was the only place I could find "used"...otherwise it was just various new/OEM websites)...

Link to the 99...

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Link to the 95...

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

hopefully that works...

Thanks again,

Chris

[hhcochris]

Ok, so I'm wondering if I could bug you guys again...finally got the right crankcase 1/2's, got a wiseco "top end kit", and the last few things I need to get are the bearings and gasket kit w/all seals, etc. The guy working on my machine said I could probably just take the #'s off the bearings, bring it to a local company, and get the same quality/size bearings for a lot cheaper than by ordering "genuine polaris/oem" bearings online. He's got a guy lined up with a press to pull apart the crankshaft so we can get the old bearings out and the new ones in. We don't have the tool to remove the " NUT, SLIT" (Polaris part 3084157) to get the crankshaft out, and ideally I would like to pre-order the bearings so I can just get the crankshaft pulled apart, new bearings put in, and pressed back together all at once. If we still need to get that slit nut thing off, he said the guy might have the tool/ability to remove it, but again, ideally I would like to do all this in one trip...so my question is...since the actual bearing #'s are hidden (due to the crank still being in once piece/stuck in the case), I can't get the #'s off of them. Does anyone have any idea how to find out the bearing #'s (I think they're NTN or NTK #'s...something like that) so I don't end up spending like $200.00 for the bearings I need? Since we've got everything torn apart, and because so many metal pieces were rattling around down in the lower end, we figured I would replace every bearing possible...I would need the #'s for the following bearings: Connecting rod big & small ends (polaris #'s 3084154, 3084168), crankcase bearings-Polaris part #'s 3084131, 3084775, 3084121 (x3), 3084123, and the waterpump bearing (polaris #3084183). If I'm missing any other bearings, I would need those too, but i think that's all. In place of the actual bearing #'s, I might be able to get by if I knew the dimensions of each bearing instead, but I think that's leaving too much room for me to screw something up...

The other question I have is: being that I already got some of the gaskets with the "top end kit", would I be better off trying to get the additional gaskets/seals individually, or should I just stick with the "complete overhaul kit" that claims it includes every gasket and oil seal to overhaul the entire engine (it even includes the gaskets/seals for the waterpump, tranny, and everything else...)? The "complete kit" is like $60, so I'm guessing it's probably easier to just get the kit...that way I don't have to deal with the same issue as the bearings...

I initially went this route to save money (instead of bringing it to a dealer and having them take care of everything)...but with all the extra time and expense I'm having with this, I'm wondering if I should have went the dealer route...along with everything else I mentioned, I also plan on getting new reeds, a carb rebuild kit, and new brake pads...would there be anything else I should replace as long as it's all torn apart? The starter/recoil checked out fine, and everything else seemed to be in order, but I don't want to go through anything like this for some time, so I want to cover all my bases...again, thanks for all the help!

Chris