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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2012, 06:45 PM
mpugolf2's Avatar
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Rear Axle Replacement and other problems

I have a 2005 Sportsman 800. Heard a knocking in the right rear while turning slow, so I pulled the right rear axle. THe hub interior was really dry (no grease), and the final drive (other end of axle that is the hardest to get out), was dry also. The splines were dry as a bone. So, is that from torn boots and water/moisture getting in there over time? Do I have another problem? What brand of axles are best to buy for the general rider, not a mudder or hard rider. I heard gorilla was the best, but is that needed for my use?
Also, the front tires were replaced before I bought it (got it from family, so I know how it was treated, and it was just a farm bike). THe front tires were 8" from factory, but they replaced them with 10" tires. The right is rubbing on the upper shock area, and the tires toe outward at the bottom. I think the tie rod end is shot on the right side, as it has about 1/4" of play. So, do I need spacers to run these 10" tires? How difficult is it to replace tie rod ends? What about bushings?
Any help is appreciated.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:11 PM
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Hello and welcome to the forum.

Let's start with, How long have you owned and ridden this wheeler? When you say the splines on the axle were dry, are you referring to the splines inside the boots where the axle fits into the bearing races, or the ends of the bearing cups where it plugs into the differential and the hub? Are you sure you need a new axle or could you just clean and re lube the CV joints on both ends of that one? You ask if heavy gorilla axles are needed for your use, but don't tell us what your use is. Is your 800 lifted? What size tires? If you don't ride too hard, don't have over sized tires, and don't have a lift, AND if you do need a new axle, then OEM might not be bad. You admit the old girl wasn't treated well and still that axle is 7 years old. If you use an OEM axle and treat her right, you might get another 10 years form it. I would even go so far as to get a decent used axle on ebay and clean the CV joints, replace the boots, and call it new. But that would only be if I couldn't rehab the one I already have.

Sorry I can't comment on tires. Both my machines have stock tires and rims. Well in some fashion anyway.

Tie rod ends are dead simple. Again, easily purchased used on ebay. I got 2 complete tie rods (total of 4 ends) for cheaper than I could get one end from the stealership. If the a-arm has play you may need bushings there as well. Again, not a difficult thing at all.

Hope the thoughts help.
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MINE:2004.5 Sportsman 700 EFI Mossy Oak (motor changed after drowning)
BigWes cargo box, WES Universal Passenger Foot Pegs, UNI air filter, Symtec Heated grips
Warn 2500 with synthetic rope, Thermotec exhaust wrap, Reverse Override, 3 Headlight Mod
RotoPax 2+2 gallon Fuel Packs, EPI HD Springs (all 4 corners) 26" Maxxis Bighorn 2.0


HERS:2007 Sportsman 700 EFI Black Metallic
Tamarack Cargo Seat, Fender Guards with footpegs from Thor, UNI air filter, Symtec heated grips
Warn 2500 with synthetic rope, ThermoTec exhaust wrap, Reverse Override, 3 Headlight Mod
26" Maxxis Bighorn 2.0

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Old 03-20-2012, 07:55 AM
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More Info

Thanks for the reply. I use the bike very little, and mainly for the hunting camp from august/september through january. The front tires are 10" width, and stock is 8", so I am 2" over. No lift on the bike, and no plans to lift. The splines I am talking about are the ends of the axles that go into the differential and the other than goes into the hub. I would not mind re-greasing the cv joints, but I have heard that is a band-aid, and the cost of boots and the time to do it could be a decision to just buy a new axle. I have seen axles from $180 (American CV)-$375 (Polaris and Gorilla) new, and I am unsure if the cheaper ones are good axles, or if I will be doing this again next year.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:27 AM
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For what it's worth: I'm almost done with my rear axle on my 08 Sportsman 500 - I had to change out the torn inner boot on the "driver's side" of the machine. The CV joint had debris inside so that required completely cleaning out the joint and re-greasing, rebooting and reinstalling. Total invested at this point is under $50. Where the plunge joint enters the rear diff you will not see grease on those splines, from my reading. You will see and can use anti-seize in the splines that go into the differential (NOT inside the cvboot/joint). The hub splines (again, not inside the boot) on mine were dry also, and I have read that anti-seize can be used there as well.

Hope this helps a little!!
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:42 AM
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When the student becomes the teacher, the teacher becomes the master. Way to be DOA.

The spines going into the differential and the hub should be dry. This is not a closed coupling meaning grease will only bind to dirt, mud, and sand that gets in there. There is no seals to keep such out so if you grease these splines you're asking for an abrasive gritty paste to build up and cause failure. Some antisieze is allowable but don't grease them.
If you're thinking of a new axle anyway it can't hurt to open up the one you have. A little debris can cause the clicking and if it hasn't scored up or damaged the joint it can be very salvageable and serviceable. If you really want to save money and don't want to rebuild it yourself, look up thecvman. If you contact him and ship him the axle he will completely rebuild it and ship it back. I think he charges $35 per joint, so $70 for the axle.
I got a good used axle from rivergrange_Powersports on eBay to put in. Then took my time rebuilding the old axle myself. Now I have an almost new spare axle in the shop in case I break one.
__________________
MINE:2004.5 Sportsman 700 EFI Mossy Oak (motor changed after drowning)
BigWes cargo box, WES Universal Passenger Foot Pegs, UNI air filter, Symtec Heated grips
Warn 2500 with synthetic rope, Thermotec exhaust wrap, Reverse Override, 3 Headlight Mod
RotoPax 2+2 gallon Fuel Packs, EPI HD Springs (all 4 corners) 26" Maxxis Bighorn 2.0


HERS:2007 Sportsman 700 EFI Black Metallic
Tamarack Cargo Seat, Fender Guards with footpegs from Thor, UNI air filter, Symtec heated grips
Warn 2500 with synthetic rope, ThermoTec exhaust wrap, Reverse Override, 3 Headlight Mod
26" Maxxis Bighorn 2.0

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Old 03-20-2012, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for the wisdom! I plan on servicing the axle, but ordering a new one as well. I will try the cv man and rivergrange as well. Thanks again!
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:09 AM
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I have a 04 polaris sportsman 400 4x4. Can anyone tell me how to remove the front axles? I am replacing the front differential.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KICKER431 View Post
When the student becomes the teacher, the teacher becomes the master. Way to be DOA.

The spines going into the differential and the hub should be dry. This is not a closed coupling meaning grease will only bind to dirt, mud, and sand that gets in there. There is no seals to keep such out so if you grease these splines you're asking for an abrasive gritty paste to build up and cause failure. Some antisieze is allowable but don't grease them.
If you're thinking of a new axle anyway it can't hurt to open up the one you have. A little debris can cause the clicking and if it hasn't scored up or damaged the joint it can be very salvageable and serviceable. If you really want to save money and don't want to rebuild it yourself, look up thecvman. If you contact him and ship him the axle he will completely rebuild it and ship it back. I think he charges $35 per joint, so $70 for the axle.
I got a good used axle from rivergrange_Powersports on eBay to put in. Then took my time rebuilding the old axle myself. Now I have an almost new spare axle in the shop in case I break one.
When you say "rebuild" The axle what exactly does that include? New boots and cleaning the joints?
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:48 AM
KICKER431's Avatar
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Location: Chaumont NY
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thole15: I am not sure what thecvman does to rebuild axles. When I say that I rebuilt the axel, I mean I took it off the machine. Completely disassembled and cleaned. Inspected to ensure there was no wear or gouging. Sanded off a burr here and there. Then reassembled with new circlips, regreased and applied new boots and clamps. Lastly put through full range of motion to ensure that it wasn't hanging up anywhere. So when I was done it not only looked new but moved very freely and held the shaft within the joint without slipping.
__________________
MINE:2004.5 Sportsman 700 EFI Mossy Oak (motor changed after drowning)
BigWes cargo box, WES Universal Passenger Foot Pegs, UNI air filter, Symtec Heated grips
Warn 2500 with synthetic rope, Thermotec exhaust wrap, Reverse Override, 3 Headlight Mod
RotoPax 2+2 gallon Fuel Packs, EPI HD Springs (all 4 corners) 26" Maxxis Bighorn 2.0


HERS:2007 Sportsman 700 EFI Black Metallic
Tamarack Cargo Seat, Fender Guards with footpegs from Thor, UNI air filter, Symtec heated grips
Warn 2500 with synthetic rope, ThermoTec exhaust wrap, Reverse Override, 3 Headlight Mod
26" Maxxis Bighorn 2.0

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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2012, 06:54 AM
thole15's Avatar
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Okay, I see what you mean. Thanks Kicker
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