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Old 10-30-2010, 06:00 PM
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sportsman 700 - rear axel / cv boot replace

I have a 2003 Sportsman 700 with a tore right rear cv boot. does anyone know if the entire axel (at the rear plunging joint) needs be removed from the casing prior to replacement? Also, on the 2003, is there a clip or pin holding this joint into the casing? it doesn't seem to pop off easily.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:54 AM
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boot repl.

Just went thru same repair with spts. 500. Finally went with replacing cv axel complete assy.Boots were 40 $ (both).plus clips.I found the complete axel assy. on line for 130.00 delivered.You will fight the bands without proper tool.Found the axel at Super atv.com If you decide to replace boots only I found a pair of needle nose pliers with a notch in the end that worked good for the bands.But if iencounter the same repair I will not hesitate to replace entire axel assem.Good luck.
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Old 10-22-2011, 07:35 AM
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Welcome to the board!
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:10 PM
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Machine punch?

I recently replaced the rear inboard cv boot on my 500 sportsman. It had a retaining ring inside the lip of the cup. An ice pick freed the whole joint out of the cup nicely.
I'm currently working on the same joint on the 700. From the best I can tell, it looks like they've assembled the rings and balls into the cup. Then, machine punched each of the ramp ends to keep it intact.
Short of grinding down these punch marks, is there some trick to rocking this joint out?

I see that this stream has already sat unanswered for three years. Surely someone can help me out here.
Thanks...
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Old 05-13-2014, 06:30 AM
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Once my parts arrive, I'm needing to replace the rear inner boot on my 02 Sportsman 500. Researching online, I believe there are three methods.

One is to remove the outer hub, and CV boot clamps, push the outer boot out of the way and whack the outer CV off with a rubber mallet (I guess there's a spring clip in the splines?). From there, you remove the outer boot, then inner boot, install inner boot and then outer boot and press the outer CV back onto the half shaft.

Another method starts out similarly, but you yank (or wedge/pry) the inner cup out of the transfer case (also has a spring clip in the splines) to remove the entire axle where you can put it on a workbench and continue as follows

The third method leaves the inner cup in place, but you remove the half shaft from the innter CV by finding a snap ring which goes around the halfshaft. This snap ring has ears in a recessed portion of the bearing holder (the kind of star shaped bit that is inside the bearing cage). Anyway, push those ears apart, and the halfshaft should slide on out.

I think I'm going to start with method 2, and if too much effort, go to method 3. And finally method 1 if the other two fail.
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:05 AM
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Definitely method 2.
I like having everything on my table under plenty of work lights.
Good luck.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:00 AM
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What you are talking about is different styles of CV's and how they are assembled. You don't have to remove the outer boot to replace the inner boot on any of them. You just have to determine which type CV you have. Take it apart. Install a new boot and grease and put it back together. It's always easier to do with it OFF the machine.
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
What you are talking about is different styles of CV's and how they are assembled. You don't have to remove the outer boot to replace the inner boot on any of them. You just have to determine which type CV you have. Take it apart. Install a new boot and grease and put it back together. It's always easier to do with it OFF the machine.
I'm listing what I believe are 3 different ways to gain "access" in one form or another to the inner boot. It would be best in MY case to get the entire CV off the vehicle for a couple reasons. Namely, I caused my boot to fail while replacing bushing, by reinstalling the forward upper a-arm bolt from the OUTSIDE, thereby leaving excess threads to score the boot.

By removing the entire CV, I can reinsert that A-arm bolt from the CV side, and not score the boot. I have to do the bushings on the other side too, so I'll try really hard to get one CV completely out of the transfer case, and drive the other out from the other side. (And thus easing the effort to remove the forward upper a-arm mounting bolt on that other side too.) There's a reason that bolt is installed from the aft, pointing forward. PITA to replace on its own, but makes sense in terms of proximity to the CV boot.

Last edited by plarkinjr; 05-13-2014 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:29 PM
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OMG! This thing is kicking my butt!!!

Parts are in (doing a bushing swap too), and I pulled the CV out of the transfer case to replace the boot (and drove the other CV out from the opposite side). Got the CV all cleaned up, new boot, went to stab it back into the transfer case and got lots of resistance. Beat on a wooden block on the cup and of course ruptured the brand new boot. Should I have left the boot unclamped, beat on the cup to reseat and THEN put the clamp on? I guess I should pop the clamp on the good one on the other side to also pound it back into the transfer case? Yeah? No? Magic? Tips? HELP!!! What's the easiest way to get the CV axle assembly back into the transfer case?

Last edited by plarkinjr; 05-29-2014 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:42 PM
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I just gave mine a couple good whacks with a dead blow right on the end of the axle and it popped back in.
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