Where is the brake Switch?! - Page 2 - Polaris ATV Forum
ATV Brakes & Suspension Have a question about your brakes? Need some suspension advice? Try this section for answers

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 10:43 AM
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We are all having fun, helping each other and bitchin' sometimes, but we are not getting mad about it

When I get called old, it is deserved - I graduated High School in 1969 and got out of the Army in 1977 after 6 years - I was a veteran motorcycle mechanic when Honda introduced the ATC90
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latebird View Post
Damn, bp405 woke up grouchy this morning

What brought you to the conclusion that you have a dead short? It is blowing a fuse, tripping a breaker or the brake light is on all the time?
Hey there late bird! Thanks for chiming in. I think bp405 was having a bit of fun at my expense and probably rightly so. In answer to HIS questions: Yes, a laser pointer and a Powerpoint presentation would be really nice. A beer too . . . and he could do some amp draw testing with his multimeter and tell me if the brake switch or something else is shorting. . . !

Here is my problem:
-- about 3 weeks ago while futzing with the Big Boss over the "High Oil" concern, I found a pigtail hanging lose. . .
-- a pigtail connector from the tail light was just hanging. Naturally, like any engineer, I said I can see where THAT goes and plugged it in.
-- a few days later I noticed that the tail(or brake filament) light was always lit, even with the machine OFF. So, I removed the bulb. . . but left the harness connected.
-- Thus, I entered another sad episode with the Big Boss. Apparently, the guy I bought this from knew that connecting that causes BIG problems and he left it off and likewise, never told the buyer about it! (me).
-- Somehow, plugging that IN causes direct interference with the starting circuit to the extent that when the START button is pushed(and apparently ONLY when that is pushed) the starter just CLICKS as if the battery is dead. So, now, a new starter and battery later, a little light comes on above my little brain and I realize WHEN my problems STARTED. I have been manually pull starting this torque hound.
-- the NEW battery, fully charged even did this. . . so, when the little light came on, I pulled THAT plug and for the first time in weeks my shoulder socket felt better, it started right up-- and continues to.

SO, I believe the 3 wires (orange, R/W, ground) that come from the light are somehow dead shorting. Not sure why they only do it when the final 10 inches for the socket are attached, but that is the case. Even with no bulb. Bulb socket and wires look fine.

My first plan is to see if the brake switch failed closed or at least if it is operating to light the brake light correctly, then, if necessary run 3 new wires from their source back to the brake / tail light. Obviously, replacing that last harness and plug is right up there too.

Question: This is called a tail light as if it is only lit when the head lights are turned on. In fact, is the tail filament always lit? like a running light?

By the way, I do have a full schematic for a Sportsman 500, but not the Big Boss Sportsman 500, probably pretty much the same. . .
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Last edited by schreib; 08-20-2019 at 11:48 AM.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 02:46 PM
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As far as the taillight wiring, it should be the same - brown is ground, red with white stripe is hot when the key and the handlebar kill switch is in the on or run position and the orange wire is hot when the front brake hydraulic system is pressurized.

For the light to be on with the key off may indicate a wiring snaffu on the terminal board - look there first - verify the wires are connected to the terminal strip that they are supposed to be attached to.

The problem you describe may be caused by an open ground and the solenoid is trying to ground through another circuit - in this case the taillight.

At the wiring harness plug for the taillight - use a ohmmeter to check continuity to ground - go from the brown wire to the neg side of the battery - if there is continuity, check for continuity between the brown wire on the solenoid (if no brown wire, check between the solenoid base) and the neg side of the battery - solenoid base does not mean a mounting bolt - if there is no brown wire, the solenoid has to ground by a clean connection between the solenoid base and the frame or the bolts and the frame - it is possible for corrosion between the bolt heads and the solenoid base or the solenoid base and the frame or both to interrupt a solid ground to the solenoid.

If ground is good, check for 12 volts on the red/wht wire when the handle bar kill switch and the light switch is turned on (low or high beam makes no difference) and then the orange wire when the hand brake is applied (the brake light is not activated by the foot brake) - there should be 12 volts on the orange wire only when the hand brake is applied - if all is good on the wiring harness side - check for continuity between the brown wire and the bulb socket shell, then from the red/wht wire to the shell and the orange wire and the shell - if no continuity between red/wht and orange to the shell, check continuity between the red/wht wire and one of the contacts then the orange and one of the contacts - it's possible to have an open ground on the bulb socket and a short between the orange and red/wht wires.

I have attached the wiring diagram for the 99 500 Big Boss 6x6
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Could you please send me the wiring schematic via email? thanks! I will follow down the leads provided assuming the Big Boss gets "fixed" for its mech. problems. . . ha!

Last edited by schreib; 08-26-2019 at 07:35 AM.
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