1999 Sportsman 500, Big Boss oil change - Polaris ATV Forum
ATV Oil, Lubrication & Filter Discussions for Engine Oils, Gear Oils, Lubrication & Filter, etc.

 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
ATV Enthusiast
 
schreib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elk River,mn
Posts: 40
Garage
1999 Sportsman 500, Big Boss oil change

3 yrs ago I bought an old 1999 Sportsman 500 6x6 Big Boss. Recently I had a local-yocal change my oil while doing other more serious work on it-- new cam. When I later checked the oil I was amazed how HIGH the oil was on the dipstick.

That was a year ago.

I just changed the oil and followed the procedure to the letter in the manual which is an amazingly detailed process if you have not ever done so. Are ALL ATV's this complicated for an OIL change?!
-- drain the sump tank
-- drain the crankcase (after removing skid plate and busting knuckles accessing the port)
-- refill the sump with 2 qt oil
-- Oil check reveals it is WAY high now.
-- squeeze off the vent port so the pump is primed and run the engine for a few seconds. (Sucks the overfull sump oil into the crankcase where it can prime the pump)
-- Recheck the oil level and, sure enough, it is back in the normal range, top it off.

So, what are the ramifications if this is NOT done. Well, based on what I saw, you lose lubrication! Or did I miss something?

Attached is pump priming procedure which I have made notes on-- embellishing it for clarity.

I would really like input from technical experts here! thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Oil change.gif
Views:	12
Size:	111.1 KB
ID:	119473  
schreib is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 09:41 AM
Polaris ATV Legend
 
latebird's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,333
No - they are not ALL this complicated and the Polaris is only complicated if done by the book. Generally; start the engine to pump oil from the crankcase to the oil tank (couple of minutes is all that is required) drain the tank, change the filter, put a quart of oil the tank, start the engine to circulate the oil and fill the filter, check the oil level and top off as necessary.

Shop Owner and Mechanic with over 50 years experience
latebird is online now  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
ATV Enthusiast
 
schreib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elk River,mn
Posts: 40
Garage
Yes,
Likely, not an excessive amount of wear occurs during the short time spent running the engine with no oil once the crankcase is empty. . .

I will do this. Thanks.

I assume you really meant to say this:

Generally; . . . 1st drain the sump tank and leave the drain plug out . . . THEN,
start the engine to pump oil from the crankcase back into the oil tank (couple of minutes is all that is required) . . . let the tank self drain, change the filter, put a quart of oil the tank, start the engine to circulate the oil and fill the filter, check the oil level and top off as necessary.
schreib is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 05:15 PM
Junior Member
 
Olympus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 12
I just did the oil change for the first time on my 2000 Sportsman 500 that I bought used. I bought a Clymer manual and followed the directions to the letter. The drain on the crankcase was a BEAR to get out and even a bigger BEAR to get back in again. I went up from the bottom through the slot in the skid plate and used a ratcheting box end wrench. I pulled the fitting off the back side of the oil tank and cleaned the little screen filter that didn't need any cleaning at all. Next time I will certainly leave that part out on the next change.

So if I understand right, you're leaving the oil tank drain open and starting the engine for a couple minutes to get the oil from the crankcase back to the oil tank to drain and then not bothering with the crankcase drain? That would certainly save a lot of time and headache. But if you do that method, do you still have to pinch the vent line to prime the system?
Olympus is online now  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 05:17 AM
Polaris ATV Legend
 
latebird's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,333
Not quite right -

Start the engine prior to changing the oil - let run a minute or two, then drain the oil tank without draining the sump, when the tank has drained, remove the filter, perform any cleaning around the filter area that you wish to do, lubricate the sealing o-ring on the filter with either new or used oil (just a drop on your finger and smeared on the surface of the o-ring), install the filter hand tight only, install the drain plug in the oil tank, pour a quart of oil (two if apprehensive) into the oil tank, start the engine and let run about 20 seconds to a minute to fill the oil filter then top off the oil tank.

The instructions about draining the engine sump and cleaning the oil inlet screen can be skipped most of the time. If you are planning on removing the engine, then drain the sump. If the machine is new to you, cleaning the inlet screen is a good preventative measure as you don't know how or if the previous owner did routine maintenance. When the sump has been drained, then the priming procedure is wise to assure the oil is being circulated. With that in mind, I have rebuilt engines and not primed the oil pump without problems, but I grease the oil pump parts and fill the pump with oil during assembly. The priming procedure uses crankcase pressure (normally vented to the air box) to pressurize the oil tank and force oil into the supply line to assure air is purged from the lines and the pump is pulling on oil, not air.

Not a good idea to start the engine without oil in the tank. That will suck the supply line dry and may necessitate using the priming procedure. I do know one cheapskate who over tightened the drain plug routinely. Eventually he damaged the brass insert cast into the plastic oil tank and could not remove the drain plug. Being a cheapskate, he refused to replace the oil tank and just put a pan under it when he parked it to catch the drips from the leakage of oil past the loosened insert. He then changed his oil by removing the filter, starting the engine and just letting the oil pump pump the oil to the filter mount. He would do this outside and just let the oil go wherever the oil went. When it quit pumping oil, he would spray it off with gasoline, let it dry, install a new filter, fill with oil and ride. He never primed the pump or cleaned the inlet screen and used the machine for years that way. He finally destroyed the front struts by letting the wheel bearings disintegrate and parted it out to his cheapskate buddies.

Bottom line - change the oil using the procedure you are comfortable with. By the book or accepted shortcut - whatever works for you.

Shop Owner and Mechanic with over 50 years experience

Last edited by latebird; 08-18-2019 at 05:20 AM.
latebird is online now  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 07:20 AM
Junior Member
 
Olympus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 12
Ok if youíre not draining the crankcase, arenít you mixing good oil with used oil? When I changed my oil, there was a large amount of oil that drained from the crankcase. I think the Clymer manual says there is 1qt left in there.
ArlyA likes this.
Olympus is online now  
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 10:09 AM
Polaris ATV Legend
 
latebird's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,333
Oil capacity is specified as 'approximately 2 quarts' - the oil pump has two sides - the supply side is low volume high pressure to the engine parts - the scavenge side is high volume low pressure from the sump to the oil tank - when the vehicle sets, oil will bleed from the oil tank into the sump - when you start the engine, the high volume side of the oil pump pumps the oil out of the engine faster than the low volume side is pumping it in - in just a minute or two after starting for the first time of the day, all but about a cup of oil is pumped out of the engine and into the oil tank - if you don't start the engine before draining the oil, about a quart might be in the sump and you should drain both - if you start the engine and pump the oil out of the sump, all you need to do is drain the oil tank and change the filter - if you change the oil regularly the oil coming out will not be much darker than the oil going in

Shop Owner and Mechanic with over 50 years experience
latebird is online now  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 10:30 AM
Junior Member
 
Olympus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 12
I think I'll probably just stick with draining the crankcase too. When I changed my oil, I took it for about a 45 minute ride before I changed the oil. I drove in the shop and immediately started the oil change process. It was still so warm that I had to use leather gloves in order to touch the drain plug on the crankcase because it was so hot. And I still had a lot of oil come out that drain. I don't think I will be checking and cleaning that metal screen on the back side of the oil tank every oil change, but I do think I will drain the crankcase each time, even though it was a PITA.
Olympus is online now  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
ATV Enthusiast
 
schreib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elk River,mn
Posts: 40
Garage
I found a relatively large amount of oil drained from the crankcase also; I warmed the engine too. . .

" . . . but I do think I will drain the crankcase each time, even though it was a PITA." Olympus


Yep, agree, I will be draining the crankcase also(but leaving the screen and pump feed line alone.) The potential for the old oil, even a little, contaminating the new, very expensive($9/qt.) synthetic oil and the worse potential for the contaminants hurting the engine are all I need to tell me drain both. (Whether by draining at the crankcase drain or pumping it back into the oil tank to drain. . . I also found that using an AIR ratchet works like a dream for that plug since you don't have to crank the handle; there is NO room to crank-- even a little.)

AND. I will use the pinch off procedure to ensure maximum pressure can be generated in the top of the oil tank from the pump output without being relieved by the vent. (thanks to late bird for the detailed workings of the pump system)

It is a hard and expensive lesson to learn but if doing a Polaris Sportsman 500(1999) oil change if the level is way high your 2 quarts of fresh oil are STILL in the oil tank and the engine is running dry! Suck it back into the crankcase or pain will follow. Even the pros can get it wrong as shown by the "pro" who did mine and hashed my machine because"he had done lots of Polaris oil changes and knew what he was doing" . . . right.
schreib is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
ATV Enthusiast
 
schreib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Elk River,mn
Posts: 40
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by latebird View Post
if you start the engine and pump the oil out of the sump, all you need to do is drain the oil tank and change the filter - if you change the oil regularly the oil coming out will not be much darker than the oil going in
This quote may be taken out of context so I want to point out that your reference here is about starting the engine to warm it up at the START of the procedure. . . Basically, from the whole context of your reply I infer you are NOT recommending to pump the crankcase FULLY dry of residual after the oil tank is emptied. This however, I believe, is very important.

So, latebird, I appreciate your wisdom and input on the workings of the pump system. There is no detail like this in the manual! However. I cannot agree with this quote because both myself and Olympus warmed our engines before changing the oil, drained the crankcase, and found, both of us, that a significant amount of old, dirty, oil remains in the crankcase-- residual. This being the reality of it, it is simply not logical to retain old oil to contaminate the new. Of course, I will also be pinching of the vent in order to facilitate priming with a FULLY empty crankcase and feed line to pump from the Oil tank.

thanks just the same for all your detailed advice.
Regards

Last edited by schreib; 08-18-2019 at 01:38 PM.
schreib is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Polaris ATV Forum > Polaris ATV Technical Discussions > ATV Oil, Lubrication & Filter

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Polaris ATV Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome