I am going to be removing my front differential and need some advice on roll pin removel. Is it worth getting the Polaris tool of just using a punch pin?
Drift punch of the proper size and replace the pin with a grade 8 bolt (I think its 5/16)and a nylok nut. That keeps you from having to pound on your joints and pinion bearing/seal.
Hit it very hard and direct. I hammered and hammered on mine for hours. Had my mechanic buddy come by and hit it three times with the same tools and it was out. Lol
I tried everything to get the pin out of my driveshaft - Numerous punches and such with no luck ... Finally used a straight bit on my air chisel and 1 pull of the trigger and it was out - I also used a nut and bolt to replace the pin
I have a repair shop that I do work for customers. I do a lot of lawn equipment repairs in which they use a lot of these roll and split pins. Yes the air chisel works the best way to remove them and that is what I use on the Polaris front and rear drive shaft pins. I have air chisel punch's turned down in size to fit these pins. I was just thinking that the OP didn't want to invest into a air chisel and air chisel punches much less a way to turn the punches down to fit the pins. I would guess he already owns a BFH style ( big fun hammer) hammer and all he would need to invest in is a drive punch. .
I've be been told a palm nailer works best.
Slide the punch in the nailer and it punches it right out. I'll be removing mine soon. I purchased a palm nailer so I'll let you know how it goes, may even video it as videos of the pin removal itself aren't easy to find.
I forgot the air compressor to operate these air tools as another cost. Now the OP didn't want to spend 50 dollars for the Polaris pin remover. But the other side of that is a air chisel or palm nailer dose much more then only remove Polaris drive shaft pins.
I've always just used a drift punch but here's a video of a homemade pin pushing tool this lawn mower guy made using an existing puller tool that would probably work pretty well. It would be cheap and easy if you already had a puller like that on hand.
I spent a few frustrating hours trying to remove the prop shaft front roll pin using a variety of punches with no luck and some skinned knuckles. I purchased the cheapest air hammer and a 5/16 roll pin punch. The pin was out in less than 2 seconds. The air hammer cost $30, and the roll pin punch $17. You must us a 5/16 roll pin punch. Spray with WD 40 first.
I've had no luck with the palm nailer...all it did was mushroom the end of it.. I've liberally spraying PB Blaster on it (both sides) and its not budging... guess I'll have to try the air chisel route. If that doesnt work, I may just put it all back together and risk it....
Just a thought here, what if I modified a C clamp (metal one) and drilled a 3/8" hole in the fixed sheave. Line it up and try to push the pin out by turning the clamp (kind of like a fly wheel pull in reverse). I'm nervous about using an air chisel.... thoughts?
I just did my front pinion cover plate, and I used a 5 lb hammer and a punch, took less then 5 minutes. Now, use common sense here, one side of my roll pin was sticking out further then the other, so I started on the side that was not sticking out as much, thinking that less sticking out, less to beat out. Put some penetrating oil or lube on it, hit this thing hard, it's going to come out
I have, and have tried all of the above. I’ve found that on some pins that have been in for a long time, the ONLY way to get it moving initially is a properly sized drift punch, a heavy hammer, and a full, confident swing of said hammer. Timid need not apply. If you’re fearful of smashing your hand with said swing (a realistic possibility considering the angle you have to swing at) hold the punch with a set of vice grips and swing it like you mean it. After the pin is moving, many of the above mentioned tools make finishing the job easier and safer.
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