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Roll pin removal

38K views 32 replies 18 participants last post by  slammer 
#1 ·
I am going to be removing my front differential and need some advice on roll pin removel. Is it worth getting the Polaris tool of just using a punch pin?
 
#7 ·
I used a 5/16 spring pin punch and lots of penetrating oil.
 
#9 ·
Took me forever to get mine out but just used a regular punch. Lots of cussing is coming your way. Best of luck lol
 
#14 ·
I have a repair shop that I do work for customers. I do a lot of lawn equipment repairs in which they use a lot of these roll and split pins. Yes the air chisel works the best way to remove them and that is what I use on the Polaris front and rear drive shaft pins. I have air chisel punch's turned down in size to fit these pins. I was just thinking that the OP didn't want to invest into a air chisel and air chisel punches much less a way to turn the punches down to fit the pins. I would guess he already owns a BFH style ( big fun hammer) hammer and all he would need to invest in is a drive punch. .
 
#16 ·
I've be been told a palm nailer works best.
Slide the punch in the nailer and it punches it right out. I'll be removing mine soon. I purchased a palm nailer so I'll let you know how it goes, may even video it as videos of the pin removal itself aren't easy to find.
 
#18 ·
Just did my pinion cover and I used a roll pin punch and a hammer...didn't take much to get it out.
 
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#19 ·
What size was the punch?
 
#26 ·
I spent a few frustrating hours trying to remove the prop shaft front roll pin using a variety of punches with no luck and some skinned knuckles. I purchased the cheapest air hammer and a 5/16 roll pin punch. The pin was out in less than 2 seconds. The air hammer cost $30, and the roll pin punch $17. You must us a 5/16 roll pin punch. Spray with WD 40 first.
 
#27 ·
I've had no luck with the palm nailer...all it did was mushroom the end of it.. I've liberally spraying PB Blaster on it (both sides) and its not budging... guess I'll have to try the air chisel route. If that doesnt work, I may just put it all back together and risk it....
 
#29 ·
#30 ·
I've had luck with a 1/4 punch and my 3lb estwig drilling hammer.

Thats rough on bearings and u joints though.

A hammer drill in chisel mode, or hammer only mode, removed one in seconds. I used a 1/4 masonry bit as the punch.

Here's a shot of the drill. It's sporting a flat chisel bit that I used to walk a stuck bearing race off a shaft.
 
#33 ·
I've had luck with a 1/4 punch and my 3lb estwig drilling hammer.

Thats rough on bearings and u joints though.

A hammer drill in chisel mode, or hammer only mode, removed one in seconds. I used a 1/4 masonry bit as the punch.

Here's a shot of the drill. It's sporting a flat chisel bit that I used to walk a stuck bearing race off a shaft.
KUDOS MIKE B.!!!! Worked like a charm... took about 5 seconds!!! THANKS !!!!
 
#31 ·
I just did my front pinion cover plate, and I used a 5 lb hammer and a punch, took less then 5 minutes. Now, use common sense here, one side of my roll pin was sticking out further then the other, so I started on the side that was not sticking out as much, thinking that less sticking out, less to beat out. Put some penetrating oil or lube on it, hit this thing hard, it's going to come out
 
#32 ·
I have, and have tried all of the above. I’ve found that on some pins that have been in for a long time, the ONLY way to get it moving initially is a properly sized drift punch, a heavy hammer, and a full, confident swing of said hammer. Timid need not apply. If you’re fearful of smashing your hand with said swing (a realistic possibility considering the angle you have to swing at) hold the punch with a set of vice grips and swing it like you mean it. After the pin is moving, many of the above mentioned tools make finishing the job easier and safer.
 
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