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ATV Repair and Maintenance Having problems? Doing a rebuild? All Repair/Maintenance Discussions here.

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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 02:47 PM
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No luck tonight fellas. I got a good weld on the nuts/studs, got a good bite as I was applying torque, then "snap". All three of them snapped off flush. Why they didn't use never seize on these studs, is beyond me. Tomorrow gonna try drilling them out and retapping.
Ouch, I was afraid of something like that. I was gonna suggest that you get them cherry red with a torch if they had any resistance at all to wanting to turn. It may be hard to get lined up with the head still in the machine to be able to drill the studs accurately. You're dealing with a hard stud in a soft head. If the bit wanders off the stud and into the head material or isn't near perfectly aligned, you may get in even worse shape!
I didn't know you was gonna move that fast on it or I'd have warned you earlier... Sorry.
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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It's ok, I know my way around a garage pretty well. I pre-drilled with a 1/8" bit first (went thru 4 drill bits) but I got them drilled and tapped. I only went about 5/8 deep, but I dry fit the pipes on, all bolts (i'm going with stainless Socket Head Cap Screws instead of studs) threaded in well, so I think I'm good to go (knock on wood). Took the pipes back off, got a good coat of 2000 deg paint on them, and now I just have to wait until I get this industrial rust stain remover in the mail so I can get this thing cleaned up. Mount the pipes...and I'm all done. Part of me is saying "who cares if all the aluminum is red, just put it back together already"...but that ain't me. I want it to be purtty in there. In the end I'll have about $400 and lots of labor, so if it keeps running well I'd still say I got a pretty good deal.
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Just a heads up to anyone who cares. I spoke to an Engineer over at big gun, and he stated that heat shields with their mufflers are not "required". The flow thru design will run much cooler. I think I'm still going to wrap the forward section of the head pipe at least, where it's in close proximity to the plastic. I think I'm going to have this thing cleaned up and put back together by the end of the week. Looking forward to showing you guys the before and after shots. Thanks for all the help fellas, I'm sure this won't be the last time.
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 09:25 AM
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It's ok, I know my way around a garage pretty well. I pre-drilled with a 1/8" bit first (went thru 4 drill bits) but I got them drilled and tapped. I only went about 5/8 deep, but I dry fit the pipes on, all bolts (i'm going with stainless Socket Head Cap Screws instead of studs) threaded in well, so I think I'm good to go (knock on wood). Took the pipes back off, got a good coat of 2000 deg paint on them, and now I just have to wait until I get this industrial rust stain remover in the mail so I can get this thing cleaned up. Mount the pipes...and I'm all done. Part of me is saying "who cares if all the aluminum is red, just put it back together already"...but that ain't me. I want it to be purtty in there. In the end I'll have about $400 and lots of labor, so if it keeps running well I'd still say I got a pretty good deal.
I could tell you knew your way around pretty good the way you've gone after that machine lol.
Sounds like you've got it going on. Can't wait to see the finished product.
What are you going to use on the aluminum stain?
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tim5779 View Post
It's ok, I know my way around a garage pretty well. I pre-drilled with a 1/8" bit first (went thru 4 drill bits) but I got them drilled and tapped. I only went about 5/8 deep, but I dry fit the pipes on, all bolts (i'm going with stainless Socket Head Cap Screws instead of studs) threaded in well, so I think I'm good to go (knock on wood). Took the pipes back off, got a good coat of 2000 deg paint on them, and now I just have to wait until I get this industrial rust stain remover in the mail so I can get this thing cleaned up. Mount the pipes...and I'm all done. Part of me is saying "who cares if all the aluminum is red, just put it back together already"...but that ain't me. I want it to be purtty in there. In the end I'll have about $400 and lots of labor, so if it keeps running well I'd still say I got a pretty good deal.
I could tell you knew your way around pretty good the way you've gone after that machine lol.
Sounds like you've got it going on. Can't wait to see the finished product.
What are you going to use on the aluminum stain?

I found some stuff on Ebay from Bosh Chemical. It's simply called "rust remover". Since the red color in that southern clay is essentially "rust", I thought I'd give it a shot. I specifies to spray on, let sit for 5 minutes, and power wash off. If that doesn't work I have quite an assortment of fine brass wire brushes I can slap on a drill and do it the hard way. I'm not quitting until these engine housings look the way they're supposed to.
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 01:46 PM
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Try washing it with white vinegar and rinsing it with clear water

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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 03:02 PM
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I was gonna say to be careful with any harsh chemicals. You might remove more than just the stain lol.
I've seen some of the RZR guys using the Orange Power stuff and a scrub brush and let it soak then repeat. I guess that would have acid in it too. Seems like I saw someone making up a concoction with dawn dish liquid and vinegar but I don't remember the ratios.
I don't do much to my machines in the way of purty. I'll wash the thick stuff off and call it good. I may really shine up 4 or 5 times a year if I'm in the garage with nothing to do and get bored. A clean machine is sexy sitting in the garage but mine get used too much for me to keep them that way. When I open the garage door there's 300+ acres of cattle farm and endless miles of trails in every direction. Mine usually don't get to sit around to be looked at for long unless I'm busy with other stuff.
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 04:27 PM
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My 2015 570 started hard and even worse when it was cold. Had to give it throttle for it to even think about firing up and the damn thing is EFI. Once started it was fine and when still warm started great just like yours. I’m a very handy guy but I knew the valves probably had something to do with and I’d rather have the dealer do it the right way.

Ended up being the valves had too much carbon build up on them and were not seating. Glad I had the dealer take it apart

Last edited by Workmore; 03-07-2019 at 08:08 AM.
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Workmore View Post
My 2015 570 started hard and even worse when it was cold. Had to give it throttle for it to even think about firing up and the damn thing is EFI. Once started it was fine and when still warm started great just like yours. Im a very handy guy but I knew the valves probably had something to do with and Id rather have the dealer do it the right way.

Ended up the valves and too much carbon build up on them and were not seating. Glad I had the dealer take it apart
I wonder if a good fuel system cleaner like Lucas Oil would help? This is an issue I haven't thought about.
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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 08:10 AM
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I’m sure a fuel additive once in a while would help. The dealer told me I should be running 91 octane in it, preferably 93 octane.
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