DEAD! Nothing! No electrical power! - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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DEAD! Nothing! No electrical power!

2003 Sportsman 500 HO. Turn key to start nothing, no head lights, no display, no solenoid click, nothing! I can pull start it just fine. I jumped the 2 large studs on solenoid and the starter engages. I have voltage at the top stud of solenoid from battery but no voltage going to the starter. Checked continuity on the wire from starter to bottom of solenoid and it's good. Starter does show it has a ground. There is 1 small terminal on the solenoid, it has 1 small wire attached - white with red stripe - it has some kind of link connection that appeared to be bent, as I inspected it and carefully tried to straighten it out it broke in two, so I jumped the 2 broken halves and still nothing. I found 2 connections under the front cover in a black bag, I assume these are the circuit breakers people talk about. I have no voltage going in or out of these 2 items. I think I located in front of the radiator the voltage regulator, thin black box with 4 wires going in and out. I checked the red wire going in for voltage - zero. I unplugged both connectors on the handle bar run switch area, cleaned them all up on both sides & reconnected , still nothing. I am frustrated/ tired/ lost/ confused at this point! Is there a breaker circuit/fuse near the battery?? I think before I gave up I put meter on continuity 1 last time, went from battery negative to the solenoid studs and it beeped, which really through me for a loop. Is it possible all my problems are just a bad solenoid? Is the solenoid even bad based on what I've told you? Do I have 2 problems? Can all of this be a bad fuse/circuit breaker that I haven't located yet? Any help to this confused old man would be greatly appreciated. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this unit, but I am not sure if I am capable of even following it through, but I can't give up, I have to keep trying something. We don't have the $$ to take it to a shop to get fixed!!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 08:09 AM
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Do you have 12 volts from the negative side of the battery to the battery + lead on the solenoid? If yes, check for 12 on the red wire going to the key switch - if you have 12 volts on the red wire at the key switch, check for 12 volts on the red/black wire at the LH handlebar switch when the key switch is turned on (you can unplug the wiring harness connector at the switch for this test) - if you have 12 volts on the red/black wire at the handlebar switch, check for 12 volts on the red/white wire (wiring harness connector must be plugged in at the handlebar switch for this test)

Let me know what you find - BTW, don't confuse the wht/red wire at the solenoid with the red/wht wire in the wiring harness.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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thank you for responding!!! 1st test, battery - to top post of solenoid , yes I have 13 volts there. 2nd test, zero voltage at key switch ( MY plug had 2 wires, 1 bigger than the other, both all red into 1 terminal, that's where I test for 12 volts}.. just for the hell of it I tested continuity from battery negative to all terminals on key switch, they all showed it except for the 1 terminal that had 2 solid red wires and the 1 terminal that had 2 black wires in it.. Also just for the hell of it I went to the handle bar switches, the rear plug had 4 terminals which 2 were red w/ black stripe no voltage there, my front HB switch had 5 terminals none of which had red/black stripe. It pull starts ok and when I slide the off-run-off switch to off it does kill the motor. My solenoid has 2 big & 1 small stud, all three show continuity amongst themselves if that helps. I also noticed that when I have 1 probe on battery negative, the bottom big stud on solenoid that runs to starter power and the small terminal on solenoid that turns into a small white with red stripe wire shows continuity from battery negative. I do have continuity off starter + positive wire to solenoid block bottom stud - but it also shows continuity from starter + positive wire to little terminal on solenoid block. I hope this helps you help me. I won't be back to my brothers till Friday to run more tests but if you think I have a bad solenoid I can order it ASAP--Any recommendations of a source?? I love your firearms permitted symbol, we both have life time permits in Indiana.. THANKS for your time!!!
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 11:06 AM
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No - I don't think it's the solenoid - got to get power from the battery to the key switch first

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Does it sound like I tested the correct wire at the key switch (mine had 2 red wires on 1 terminal). My solenoid has 2 wires at the top post. 1 big wire off battery positive, a 2nd smaller wire is also there. It looks brown and printed on that wire it says "fuse able link", this wire runs into the black plastic curly tubing along the frame and runs towards the front of the machine. This fuse able link wire changes to a red wire inside that plastic protective tubing. Is it possible this link is bad & the red leads to the key switch, thus no power at switch....
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 03:27 PM
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It is entirely possible the fusible link has burned in two and would explain no power on the red wire at the switch

By Jove, I believe you have found it!

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 05:41 AM Thread Starter
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That's encouraging!! If it's bad I will probably put an in line type fuse holder that has a replaceable fuse, what would you recommend for the amps on this fuse??? I will report back with my findings. Thanks again for your guidance!!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 06:23 AM
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The fuse protects the wiring - I suppose about a 20 amp fuse would be about right - nothing over 30 amps and many times a 10 amp fuse would be sufficient, but if accessories have been added that caused the problem, it would be best to run a separate fused wire to the main power source for each accessory.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Indiana

I thought I got lucky! That fuse able wire was bad, I installed a "mini" fuse able link but only went with a 3 amp fuse. Very hard to read the writing on that wire but I interpreted what I saw to show less than 1 amp rating ( is that even possible??) so I went with 3 amp. Turned the key and had voltage at ignition switch and saw the dash lights come on-- no head lights or winch -- so next I turned key to start and it fired up BUT lost the dash readout immediately - took a quick spin - still no winch, head lights or dash readout - turned it off then went to restart DEAD again. Fuse blown, replaced with another 3 amp same scenario - started once blows fuse after 1 ignition cycle.. I was too scared to try a 10 amp fuse thinking I still had a short somewhere because the head lights and winch inoperable and I lost the dash readout when it started. Still dazed and confused. No idea what to try next. Any suggestions!!!!! HELP!!!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 09:07 AM
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Average circuit breaker is 20 amp - headlights draw 6 amps try a 10, then 15, then 20 amp fuse - might even go to a 25 as a fuse will open faster than a fusible link

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