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Sportsman X2 500 EFI Fuses

23K views 59 replies 5 participants last post by  lateburd 
#1 ·
Owners manual covers 500 & 800 EFI
Says fuse block for 800 is on top of the access door.
Does not say the 500 even has a fuse, let alone where they may be.
There is nothing on/under or near the access door. Cannot find a fuse block anywhere.

My two questions are: Where is the fuse block located on a 500 &
where is the fuel filter?
ATV has been sitting (w/o) gas for about 5 years. Tank was drained then.
New gas & battery. Cranks over fine and will fire on staring fluid.
Has spark but not getting gas.
Any help is appreciated,
Tom/Idaho
 
#4 ·
My mistake, yes it's a 2007.
My500/800 manual says the 800 has a fuse block below the access door. Nothing on the 500. In fact there is not a fuse block anywhere.
I found the fuel filter, but can't figure out how to change it.Any help, Thanks, Tom/Idaho
 
#5 · (Edited)
That's what I suspected. The 2007 electrical harness configuration is very different than the 2008. No fuse block or relays under the access door.
The fuel filter has quick couplings on each end and simply snaps in the plastic holder it sits in. You squeeze the end tabs of the horseshoe-shaped locks on the couplings and push up just till they disengage. They only raise up about 1/2". Then you push the coupling in toward the filter and then back out the other way to pull it off the filter. Pour a some fuel in the new filter to wet it and install in the reverse order.
Here's a pic.
 

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#6 ·
I just reread your original post Tom.
Can you hear the fuel pump prime up when you turn the key on?
If the pump runs, cycle the key on/off multiple times (6-7) and then see if it tries to hit when cranking.
If its not pumping check if you're getting power to the pump at the connector on the top front of the tank.
Let us know what you find.
 

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#7 ·
Thank you for you assistance. I have that same schematic, and thank you for the info on how to unhook it, but I haven't figured out how to reach the filter.
Also does the ECM take the place of fuses and/or relays. If it does that could be what's not letting it start. This ECM was dealer replaced just before it was put in storage and the machine has less than 1000 miles on it with only a hundred or so on the new ECM.
When I turn the key on everything lights up and the starter works great.
Turn off the key and I can hear clicking for a couple seconds. Sounds like an electric fuel pump sounds. If that is the electric fuel pump,shouldn't it make the clicking sound when the key was turned on and not after?
Again, I thank you for your continued help,
Tom/Idaho
 
#13 ·
I have the plastic and box off the front. This fuel tank is different as it is a 2007(or so the registration says).
The fisch(that I copied and you sent) says that image is for a 2006 which would explain why there is nothing on the top rear of this tank to connect to or test.
When I put information into the fisch locator I put in 2007 and it shows a fisch for 2006.
Any idea what to do now?
Thanks, Tom/Idaho
 
#14 ·
Tom, the design and drawings for these machines are done a year or two BEFORE production. They all are. Those for a 2007 will have been done in 2006 or earlier and so on. You're looking at the tank wrong. The pump is in the FRONT right side of the tank just like the drawing shows. You'll have to follow the wires and pull the tank back some from the bulkhead to find the connector. Unplug the connector, turn the key on and use a multimeter to see if you have voltage coming through the harness to the pump. If you have voltage but the pump isn't running when you turn it on you must have a bad pump. If you have no voltage going to the pump then you're losing it upstream somewhere and we'll have to track it down.
 
#16 ·
You're looking at the tank wrong

You are right, I was. I see that now. I think I may just up and quit for the day. Damm!

At the connector are three wires. 1) Red/Green 2)purple/white 3)Brown
Key on; red/green=1.17 DC volts
purple/white=5.03 DC volts
brown=ground
As I don't see any fuses I'm guessing one of the little boxes control that missing voltage.
Or, am I still missing something?
Hey, I really do appreciate you leading me by the hand.
Tom/Idaho
 
#20 · (Edited)
If you don't find any problems with the battery or the harness back toward the PDM it may be a problem in the PDM itself as that controls everything rather than relays like on the 2008.

Edit: I edited this post to reflect that its the PDM that does the power distribution on the 2007 rather than separate relays and fuses.
 
#23 ·
Tom, if after checking/testing you determine that the problem is probably the PDM, Module Masters comes highly recommended by several forum members. A new PDM for your machine costs around $500-$600. I personally have no experience with them but according to some of our forum members MM will rebuild your PDM for $150 with a turnaround time of about 5 days.
I'd make sure I'd checked everything else first though to eliminate it down to the PDM.
Here's an ebay link for them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-0...853601?hash=item41cc8fd961:g:CWQAAOSwXeJYCRVn
 
#24 ·
MM is in Moscow, Idaho, about a 4 hour drive North of me.

I spliced battery voltage (12.75) into the purple/white wire and the ground on the brown wire that goes to the pump and get nothing. That same wire coming from the switch side of the connector showed 5.04 volts with the key on.
The other wire (red) shows 1.17 at the connector side of the switch. What is the red wires purpose?
To measure the voltage going into the pump I spliced into the wires and did not use the connector which was disconnected.
Maybe 5.04 volts on the purple/white is all that's needed to activate the pump.
Do you have any suggestions as to where I can get a pump that will work? That is if you agree with me.
I can't thank you enough for all your help. And, I will replace the filter while I'm this close.
Tom/Idaho
 
#25 ·
The other wire would be your fuel gauge.
The ECM requires 7 vdc minimum to operate the pump so you may still have other issues.
Here's one link of many pumps and pump kits on ebay. Quantum kits have the pressure regulator, strainer and all in their kits. You can also get the same pumps at NAPA and other auto parts stores at similar prices. You can find part numbers for those by using the search function on the forums.
You should be able to find install instructions too.
Probably some videos on YouTube.
 
#28 ·
If it happens to be the PDM it'll run you $550 & that's just for the PDM itself not including labor. Had to get mine replaced last March.
 
#30 ·
You may be right. I'd check/test the key switch and harness back upstream to the PDM though. Make sure you've got good voltage into the PDM and then compare to what's coming out. I sorta suspected that might be it from the start. From what I've found looking around, the PDM on those machines were a fairly common problem area. That may have been the reason for the redesign of the electrical system for the 2008 and later models.
 
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