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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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2002 Magnum 325 4x2 Pistons noise

Well I had a most interesting and upsetting problem. My engine is starting to squeal. I checked all the fluid levels and inspected everything. I cannot see anything out of place. The oil looks good. The gas looks good. I am wondering if I need to look at doing a top end rebuild and replace the piston. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 07:37 PM
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If it's a squeal, it's probably not your piston, if you can, post up a video to show the noise. Also, is it doing it moving, parked, both, in gear, out of gear, accelerating, slowing down, When the cold engine is first started, and/or when the motor is hot, Help us try to narrow this down a bit for you How does it run otherwise? I'm wondering if possibly your starter bendix is just stuck and is starting to wear out it's bushing...
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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If it's a squeal, it's probably not your piston, if you can, post up a video to show the noise. Also, is it doing it moving, parked, both, in gear, out of gear, accelerating, slowing down, When the cold engine is first started, and/or when the motor is hot, Help us try to narrow this down a bit for you How does it run otherwise? I'm wondering if possibly your starter bendix is just stuck and is starting to wear out it's bushing...
It is happening when I try to start it and then it sounds like fingers on a chalkboard. My son said that ithas been making a knocking sound for the last few weeks. He said that it starts to squeal then engine stops running and that it has been bogging down the last few weeks also.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 09:12 PM
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From your description I would guess it is probably not top end. I am aware, having bought 2 of them that way, that they can throw the rod bearing out. Usually it is a catastrophic failure that results when the bearing seizes, breaking the rod and sticking the wrist pin out through the crankcase. The last time, one of them spit an oil cooler line off on the trail and trashed the bearing before my son could get it shut down. After we got it back to the truck and filled with oil again I could get it started, but it acted just as you describe. Ran fine and lost power. You can take the head off with the engine in the machine, but you will probably be farther ahead to pull the motor out and tear it down.

Mine: 2018 Sportsman 850SP - 26" Bear Claw HTRs on OEM steel wheels(I really don't like the Aluminum ones)
Polaris Hand warmers, Mirrors.
Hers: 2019 Sportsman 450. 26" Bear Claw HTRs on Moose 427X Wheels.

2007 Sportsman 500 EFI, Polaris Winch, 25" Bear Claws QSC Clutch Kit, Hand Warmers
2001 Magnum 325 MOSE 12" rear wheel conversion. 25" Sedona Coyote tires
2017 Polaris Ranger 1000XP - Roof and front glass
2018 Kawasaki KLR650
2001 Magnum 325 Warn winch and Moose 60" plow-Sent to Daughter and Son-In-Law since his blew up
SOLD 2004 Sportsman 600 Twin
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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From your description I would guess it is probably not top end. I am aware, having bought 2 of them that way, that they can throw the rod bearing out. Usually it is a catastrophic failure that results when the bearing seizes, breaking the rod and sticking the wrist pin out through the crankcase. The last time, one of them spit an oil cooler line off on the trail and trashed the bearing before my son could get it shut down. After we got it back to the truck and filled with oil again I could get it started, but it acted just as you describe. Ran fine and lost power. You can take the head off with the engine in the machine, but you will probably be farther ahead to pull the motor out and tear it down.
Yikes. Sounds like a project. Do you have any links to a engine rebuilt kit? Or would it be better just getting a new engine?
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stave7119 View Post
From your description I would guess it is probably not top end. I am aware, having bought 2 of them that way, that they can throw the rod bearing out. Usually it is a catastrophic failure that results when the bearing seizes, breaking the rod and sticking the wrist pin out through the crankcase. The last time, one of them spit an oil cooler line off on the trail and trashed the bearing before my son could get it shut down. After we got it back to the truck and filled with oil again I could get it started, but it acted just as you describe. Ran fine and lost power. You can take the head off with the engine in the machine, but you will probably be farther ahead to pull the motor out and tear it down.


Yikes. Sounds like a project. Do you have any links to a engine rebuilt kit? Or would it be better just getting a new engine?


Yes, it is a project. I have done a few of them. No rebuild kit for these that I know of. I have used a 2005 330 engine. Had to use the 325 stator plate and stator to eliminate all the later electronics. That was a bolt in project since the crankshaft in the 325 wasn’t good. Latebird had someone that can rebuild the crank so I would go that way now. The first one I did, I followed the steps in the Clymer manual I bought. Generic manual titled Polaris ATV. First on covered 1998 through 2003


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Mine: 2018 Sportsman 850SP - 26" Bear Claw HTRs on OEM steel wheels(I really don't like the Aluminum ones)
Polaris Hand warmers, Mirrors.
Hers: 2019 Sportsman 450. 26" Bear Claw HTRs on Moose 427X Wheels.

2007 Sportsman 500 EFI, Polaris Winch, 25" Bear Claws QSC Clutch Kit, Hand Warmers
2001 Magnum 325 MOSE 12" rear wheel conversion. 25" Sedona Coyote tires
2017 Polaris Ranger 1000XP - Roof and front glass
2018 Kawasaki KLR650
2001 Magnum 325 Warn winch and Moose 60" plow-Sent to Daughter and Son-In-Law since his blew up
SOLD 2004 Sportsman 600 Twin
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 05:50 AM
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The 325 crankshaft is a plain bearing rod (not roller bearing) - I don't think Mr. Crankshaft can repair a one piece crankshaft.

Plain bearing cranks can be machined to an undersize by an automotive machine shop and Polaris list's .05 and .25 mm (.002 and .010" respectively) undersized bearing inserts. The good news is if the rod is damaged, it is still available. Many times the bearing shells are available while the rod is not or vice versa.

Regardless, you need to take the motor apart to find out what needs to be replaced or repaired - might end up being the camshaft and head or piston and cylinder.

Shop Owner and Mechanic with over 50 years experience
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 06:17 AM
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Where are you at? Maybe I can help you out

Mine: 2018 Sportsman 850SP - 26" Bear Claw HTRs on OEM steel wheels(I really don't like the Aluminum ones)
Polaris Hand warmers, Mirrors.
Hers: 2019 Sportsman 450. 26" Bear Claw HTRs on Moose 427X Wheels.

2007 Sportsman 500 EFI, Polaris Winch, 25" Bear Claws QSC Clutch Kit, Hand Warmers
2001 Magnum 325 MOSE 12" rear wheel conversion. 25" Sedona Coyote tires
2017 Polaris Ranger 1000XP - Roof and front glass
2018 Kawasaki KLR650
2001 Magnum 325 Warn winch and Moose 60" plow-Sent to Daughter and Son-In-Law since his blew up
SOLD 2004 Sportsman 600 Twin
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Where are you at? Maybe I can help you out
I am on the Oregon coast
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stave7119 View Post
From your description I would guess it is probably not top end. I am aware, having bought 2 of them that way, that they can throw the rod bearing out. Usually it is a catastrophic failure that results when the bearing seizes, breaking the rod and sticking the wrist pin out through the crankcase. The last time, one of them spit an oil cooler line off on the trail and trashed the bearing before my son could get it shut down. After we got it back to the truck and filled with oil again I could get it started, but it acted just as you describe. Ran fine and lost power. You can take the head off with the engine in the machine, but you will probably be farther ahead to pull the motor out and tear it down.


Yikes. Sounds like a project. Do you have any links to a engine rebuilt kit? Or would it be better just getting a new engine?


Yes, it is a project. I have done a few of them. No rebuild kit for these that I know of. I have used a 2005 330 engine. Had to use the 325 stator plate and stator to eliminate all the later electronics. That was a bolt in project since the crankshaft in the 325 wasn’t good. Latebird had someone that can rebuild the crank so I would go that way now. The first one I did, I followed the steps in the Clymer manual I bought. Generic manual titled Polaris ATV. First on covered 1998 through 2003


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Where is a good place to get parts?
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