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need help 2011 polaris 850 sportsman touring

5K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  polman500 
#1 ·
has anyone removed their fuel injectors to clean them?
if there clogged, what is the best method?
 
#2 ·
Simple - if the injector is clogged, replace it with a new one - they can't be cleaned adequately with solvents or additives.

How do you know they are clogged? According to all the sources I have available, the only way to clog an injector is to run dirty or unapproved fuel without a fuel filter, use sloppy or careless service procedures or leave the vehicle unused for a long period of time and injectors clogged from disuse will clean themselves if the engine will run and all the old fuel is drained, fresh fuel is in the fuel tank and the engine is operated normally for a period of time.
 
#3 ·
yes, do agree with you
you latebird have been guiding me thtough this stupid machine,lol
i guess going to have to take your advice,and biting the bullet andtake to a service polaris center
dont really have the money, and ill always have tried to fix things on my own.
just a refresher,
ran it low on fuel, didnt run it out though.
few days later, put 3 gallons gas it it. hasnt started since
bought fuel pressure kit-40lbs with key on, 43 lbs while cranking
took off output line on top of fuel pump, with key on pumped gas for 3 secs, cranked it and pumped good stream
took plugs out, left hooked up,sparking against ground.
after struggling getting fuel rail unhooked, had to remove all that manifold below it to get to the two bolts that mounts the fuel rail
cranked over and looks like both injectors spraying fuel while cranking, i mean not a sh--t load, but spraying, yet no start
spray starting fluid in breather hole, it freaking starts!!!
im lost
 
#4 ·
Fuel pressure sounds low!!! 55psi is what it takes to my knowledge!!
 
#8 ·
Hmm, I don't know about the earlier model 850's. I'll do some looking later today. I know my old 800 is 42 I think but my new 1000 is 58. Not sure when they upped the pressure. I was just saying you can't tell anything by just seeing that the pump is pumping. It and the regulator has to deliver at the correct pressure or you'll have problems.
 
#13 ·
i know latebird, thats what im saying
if this machine did require that high psi, then would understand, but both injectors are spraying fuel while out of injector port,now, im not shure if its the correct amount, but the darn thing starts with starting fluid
 
#16 ·
just a reminder what ive done
but didd smell it, smeelt like normal
lite it on fire, ignited immediatly
pumped gas out, replaced with different fuel, still no difference

es, do agree with you
you latebird have been guiding me thtough this stupid machine,lol
i guess going to have to take your advice,and biting the bullet andtake to a service polaris center
dont really have the money, and ill always have tried to fix things on my own.
just a refresher,
ran it low on fuel, didnt run it out though.
few days later, put 3 gallons gas it it. hasnt started since
bought fuel pressure kit-40lbs with key on, 43 lbs while cranking
took off output line on top of fuel pump, with key on pumped gas for 3 secs, cranked it and pumped good stream
took plugs out, left hooked up,sparking against ground.
after struggling getting fuel rail unhooked, had to remove all that manifold below it to get to the two bolts that mounts the fuel rail
cranked over and looks like both injectors spraying fuel while cranking, i mean not a sh--t load, but spraying, yet no start
spray starting fluid in breather hole, it freaking starts!!!
im lost
 
#17 · (Edited)
Definitely got a fueling problem. I'm thinking your pressure gauge may be inaccurate, and you have low fuel pressure.

It's possible the pump running hot for a few seconds when you ran low on fuel did it in. That would be my 1st suspect. Or you could've drawn up crap at the bottom of the tank and plugged the fuel filter - that's cheaper to check, so start there. You need pressure, but also volume.
 
#19 ·
with seeing the injectors out of the port, spraying fuel, or a heavy mist against the manifold, but them being inside the ports/ orings holding in compression or pressure, is it possible they arent spraying being installed?
doesnt mean its faulty, but purchased a brand new fuel tester"bocsh"brand at olreilys just for this project
being the fact that i ran low on fuel
then a week later filled back up and hasnt started since, my first thought and common since led me to the first thing i ckecked, fuel pump,
removed output line on top and it was pumping,
spoke with a polaris dealer, said still could be lack of pressure, so i bought the fuel tester gauge
i appreciate everyones help, looks like im taking it to the dealer for a $95 dignostics test= 1 hr he said
but if he has to get into it, alot more
they have already priced a pump= polaris fuel pump
freakin 486 dollars thats just the pump, no installition
we just live 2 hrs away from a shop and trying to fix myself
very frustrading
 
#20 ·
The injectors are spraying into a vacuum - when the intake valve is open and the injector opens, the piston is traveling downward and creates a vacuum drawing air into the cylinder - the fuel is sprayed into the air as it is being drawn into the cylinder.

The baffling part here is that it would not run after being refueled. If I were working on it, I would test the fuel for water. If it was fueled from a can it is more likely to have had water in the bottom of the container, but I have seen people get water from the pump.

A certain local gas station changed hands recently and went from one brand name to another. On opening day under the new name, a friend of mine filled the gas tank on his Harley. He drove it from there about 10 blocks and coasted into my parking lot bewildered that the motor just stopped running and it wouldn't even try to start. His bewilderment was compounded by the fact that I had just repaired his ignition and charging systems. He had a new battery and the engine cranked fine, just wouldn't start even when choking it. I gave it a spray of starting fluid and it fired immediately. I put it on a lift and drained the carb into a plastic bowl. I said it might run if it had gas in it instead of water. Of course he said, I just gassed up - filled the tank. I removed the fuel line from the tank and drained about 1/2 gallon from the tank into a milk bottle. I put one drop of red food coloring into the jug and shook it up. After about a minute, the liquid was about 1/3 pink and 2/3 slightly yellow. He asked why it looked like that and I told him food coloring would mix with water, but it wouldn't mix with gas. All the pink stuff was water.

I asked him where he filled up and he told me, I asked if there was a tanker there filling the tanks and he said yes - said he stopped there because he figured the fuel would be fresh. I explained to him how you are more likely to get water when the tanks are being filled than the day after filling.

After I was satisfied I had the bulk of water out of the fuel tank, I put the fuel line back on the carb, turned the fuel on and started the bike. Told him he might have to drain the carb occasionally to assure there was no water collecting in the float bowl.

Your system does not have a float bowl where residual water might collect. It has to be pumped or drained out. One drop of food coloring in your fuel tank will not hurt the fuel system (other than maybe some discoloration on some light colored plastics), so you might put one drop of food coloring into the fuel tank to see if there is a quantity of water for it to mix with. If there is no water, the droplet will just lay in the bottom of the tank for almost forever, but if it comes in contact with water, it will begin to disperse.

Either test for water or simply drain completely and dry thoroughly (don't refuel until the inside of the tank is completely dry) and try again.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Forget about adding 'HEET' (fuel treatment to remove ice and water) if you are using ethanol blended fuel.

A 12 oz bottle of fuel line dryer is 12 oz of alcohol - a 12 oz bottle treats 20 gal - 12 oz of alcohol in 20 gallons of gasoline gives the gasoline a .4% content of alcohol - if using ethanol blended fuel, it raises the 10% blend to 10.4% - how then is this increase in alcohol going to help remove the water that has combined with the alcohol in the fuel and settled to the bottom of the tank?

If not using ethanol blended fuel, HEET will help remove trace amounts of water that may have contaminated the fuel by way of condensation, entering the fuel tank when fueling up in a rain storm or other careless methods of fueling.

I am working from the angle that the fuel may have been ethanol blended, the ethanol absorbed .4% of water from the atmosphere and the alcohol contaminated with water separated from the fuel and settled on the bottom of the storage container. Adding more alcohol to a water/alcohol blend will not get the alcohol to remix with the gasoline.

If you treat alcohol to prevent it from absorbing water, it will stay suspended in the fuel as intended when it was introduced in the gasoline at the terminal as it is being dispensed into the delivering tanker. Gasoline blended with ethanol is not in storage at the terminal, it is blended as it fills the tanker - ethanol blended fuel cannot be stored more than 30 days at the dispensing terminal due to the propensity of ethanol to absorb water and separate from gasoline.

Simply use non-ethanol fuel to avoid the problems of phase separation, fuel system component damage and get better fuel mileage as a side benefit. Non-ethanol fuel provides me 4 more miles more to the gallon in my Mercury and F150 truck. Marine gas is non-ethanol because the byproducts of ethanol fuel will kill marine life.

Iso-HEET's primary ingredient is Isopropyl alcohol
 
#22 ·
help

ok latebird
it is cheaper to change fuel pump than pay polaris dealer to fix
here is two different pumps, same brand, that replaces my year model, whats the difference?

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-2293...ouring-eps-xp-2011-2014-replaces-2204401.html

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-2831...ouring-eps-xp-2011-2014-replaces-2204401.html
is there cheaper one a rebuild kit? that one says replaces it with the required 58psi
the oem drop in is little over double in price and doesnt say highflow
me and you both agree the service manual shows 43psi for my machine, but did polaris change it due to a vapor lock problem?
 
#23 ·
p.s.
reading what you said about water in the tank
it is a slim possibility that both, seperate gas cans i used, could of got rain water in them
its a holday weekend so either pump u to tell me to order, propbably wont get processed online until tuesday, the polaris shop cant do a dianostics test until thursday so got time i guess
to try your water test,
can i siphon the gas into a glass mason jar? or does all of it need to be out?
 
#24 ·
Yes, it's generally cheaper to replace the fuel pump your self than to have a dealer diagnose and repair, but if replacing the pump does not fix it, you may have spent money unnecessarily. On the up side, if you replace the pump and it does not fix it, you have a spare pump that you may sell or keep around for an emergency for the next time the pump fails.

As to the water situation, you can disconnect the fuel line and pump the tank out or siphon the liquid from the bottom of the tank (I prefer siphoning as you can get the siphon hose right on the bottom of the tank) and into a mason jar is fine - if you fill the mason jar and find no water, then go for the pump.

Vapor lock occurs when fuel boils in the fuel line or the fuel tank - the boiling creates air bubbles which decrease fuel pressure and volume. Modern gasoline is blended to resist boiling and under pressure the boiling point is raised, but the actual boiling point is as varied as the brands of fuel being sold. I seriously doubt that vapor lock is a factor when starting a cold engine.
 
#25 ·
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