Runs, but no electric crack - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Runs, but no electric crack

96 trail boss 250. New battery, new solenoid. Runs when pull started, does not turn over with electric start. Put power straight to the starter and nothing. Bad starter? Start button? Neutral safety switch? Any bypasses or troubleshooting tips? Thanks.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 09:46 AM
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If you jumped the pos side of the battery directly to the starter motor and the neg side of the battery directly to the engine and the starter motor it didn't run, then it's a bad starter motor. If you only jumped the pos side of the battery to the starter motor, you could have a bad ground between the motor and the frame.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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I decided to pull the starter, and when I removed the side cover, fuel came spilling out from the flywheel side of the case.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 05:17 AM
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That's not completely abnormal - if the machine sat unused for a long period of time with the fuel turned on, it can overflow the carb and fill the crankcase (there's a drain plug on the crankcase too) - if the crankcase gets full of fuel, it can seep past the seal on the crankshaft and get gas into the recoil chamber - if the engine is turned over with the crankcase full of fuel, the pressure will force fuel past the crank seal - the recoil cover chamber has a drain plug and is supposed to be drained occasionally to let accumulated water and or fuel and oil out.

You should shut the fuel off whenever the vehicle is not in use.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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The wheeler has been sitting for 3 or 4 years, so that is probably the situation. I'll drain the crank to see if there is anything else left in there. What are your thoughts on the condition of the crank seal? Might it be good after having the extra pressure on it?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 04:58 AM
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The seal is designed to hold pressure and exposure to gas and oil, but it can be damaged by alcohol blended fuel. The fact that it runs means the seal is at least sealing at this point in time. The seal is designed to hold air pressure, not hydraulic pressure (any liquid under pressure is hydraulic) - the two stroke engine has air pressure on both the top and bottom of the piston. In a 4 stroke engine, crankcase pressure is vented to the atmosphere (or intake system) - in a two stroke engine, crankcase pressure is vented to the combustion chamber. If the crank seal seriously damaged it will rear it's ugly head as the engine gets hard or impossible to start and a large quantity of gas and oil will collect regularly in the recoil chamber. A large quantity would be a table spoon each week if operated 1/2 hour or longer each day.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome response! I will clean everything up, put it together and monitor for leakage. Thanks a lot.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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So I've drained everything and put in a good starter and still getting nothing from start button. When I arc the brand new solenoid, it cranks. Bad start botton or wiring issue?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 10:43 AM
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Unplug the white wire with the red stripe on the solenoid - run a jumper wire from the pos terminal of the battery to the wht/red wire on the solenoid - if the solenoid closes and it cranks you might have a starter button issue - if the solenoid does nothing (no click), check the solenoid ground - if the ground is good, you probably have a bad solenoid.

If the solenoid works when jumped to the battery, you have to start chasing 12 volts - power goes from the battery, through a circuit breaker to the key switch - with the switch on, the red/black wire is hot, the r/b wire goes to the LH handlebar switch, when the switch is in the on position, the red/white wire is hot, the r/w wire goes to the lights and everything else - the r/w wire is internally connected to the start switch - when the start switch is closed, the white/red wire is hot and goes from the start button to the solenoid. Check wires and connections from the source to the destination and you will get it fixed.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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The starter cranks when I put power to the solenoid. The wire from the battery to the circuit breaker is missing. To make this connection can I use an eye and connect it to the positive side of the battery or the hot side of the solenoid?
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