Electronic fuel injection 101 - Page 2 - Polaris ATV Forum
ATV Repair and Maintenance Having problems? Doing a rebuild? All Repair/Maintenance Discussions here.

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post #11 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-03-2012, 12:12 PM
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Coolant level was full, rad has been flushed out several times so I don't think that is it...However new plugs I had installed month ago looked perfect yesterday, if it was running rich they should have been dirtier...BUT.. it looks like I'll have to tear off covers again and go to work on checking coolant sensors, themostat and wiring. Just like to old days of snowmobles,, ride 2, work 5 days. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP STEW !!!!!!!
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post #12 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-03-2012, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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...but the ride 2 are worth the 5 days of work!

Stew

2011 Sportsman 500 HO Touring: Polaris 3500 lb. Winch, Kimpex Adventure XL Trunk, 7" Passenger Foot Risers, UNI Foam Filter
2006 Sportsman 500 X2 EFI: Superwinch Terra 25 w/Synthetic Rope, Kolpin 4 gal Gas Pack, 3" Passenger Foot Risers, 3-Headlight Mod, K&N Filter

SOLD 2010 Sportsman 300: Polaris 2500 lb. Winch, Kolpin Rear Seat (for the dog), UNI Foam Filter
SOLD 2006 Sportsman 700 Twin EFI: 27" Mud-Lite XTR, Superwinch Terra 35 w/Synthetic Rope, Polaris HD Front Springs, OEM Front Bumper Guard, WES Rear Seat, Kimpex Fender Guards w/Footpegs, 3-Headlight Mod, K&N Filter, Symtec Heated Grips
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post #13 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 10:01 AM
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Efi 101

Today 12:50 PM - permalinkDom1007
I would like to thank everyones info on this forum , a while back i had a problem with 2007 sportsman 500 efi not running correctly with help from many posts, one helped the most (EFI 101) I found a broken wire going to the map sensor. Now fixed wheeler is running great Thanks again Dom

Last edited by Dom1007; 05-16-2012 at 01:19 PM. Reason: missed word
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post #14 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 02:25 PM
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I have an o9 sporty 500 it runs great when it cold. But when it's hot it seems like its running rich and will stall at idle. Can a faulty AIT affect this? Or would the problem be more related to the map sensor? Just kinda want to narrow it down abit if I can. The strange thing is I don't get any codes!
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post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 11:04 AM
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Hello All,
Great info here!
I recently bought a 2005 Sportsman 700 Twin, I feel like I got a good deal ($3600) but after taking it out a couple times, I am experiencing some of the symptoms described throughout this thread.
The atv starts and runs great, smooth idle at 1100 rpm +/- 20 rpm. Everything seems to work well for a while, then it will start to sputter out, and no power, just like it was running out of gas. If left to cool down for a few minutes it is fine for a while then it starts all over. One observation that seems to be different than the other posts I have read, is mine will do this with 3/4 or more gas in the tank.
Today I checked the fuel pressure and with the ignition on, but not running the pressure goes right to 40-41psi, while running it goes up to a constant 44psi.

Pressure regulator?? That does not explain why it is sputtering and running out of gas.

Any input is welcome.

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post #16 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 12:21 PM
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Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKStew View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by egoredayooper View Post
Its a 2005 700 EFI. I hooked up a pressure tester and took a ride for about an hour and half and it pegged at 42# and never waived until I ran out of gas (deliberate) Put gas in and it pegged at 42 again, even at idle it stayed at 42however it still ran with a light stutter. I am skeptical about pressure now, but????????. I wonder if the heat warming up the air box for instance and having the TBap sending wrong air temp or BP to the ECU or gas at a higher temp or something like this would make a differance. As far as being eng for this, I have worked with eng and arch all my life, big co's don't really care if it fails or has problems ( designed obsolescence)
Do you have a factory manual? The resistance specs for most of the sensors are in there. You can check them with a multimeter. Here's a writeup on checking the TPS without the special tool.

https://www.polarisatvforums.com/foru...fi-models.html

So fuel pressure is good and there is still a light stutter. Sounds like the fuel pump is working as advertised. If heat were affecting the sensors I don't think the problem would be very intermittent but would be fairly constant. Without hearing it, it's hard to tell. That's just a limitation of writing in a forum.

The manual says if the CPS is bad the engine won't run. What if the CPS is going bad or the wiring? An intermittent missed signal from the CPS would cause a light stutter because the ECU wouldn't know exactly when to fire the coil. The wiring on the sensor harnesses can appear to be good to the eye while the strands inside are actually breaking. Pull the individual wires and see if one is stretchier than the others. If so, that might be your culprit.

From the manual: The CPS is what they are calling the speed sensor. Also, use pins 9 & 10 on the ECU plug.

"CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR TEST

The crankshaft position sensor is a sealed,
non--serviceable assembly. If fault code diagnosis
indicates a problem within this area, test and correct
as follows:

1. Disconnect main harness connector from ECU.
2. Connect an ohmmeter between the pin terminals.
A resistance value of 560 Ω 10% at room
temperature (20_ C, 68_F) should be obtained. If
resistance is correct, check the mounting, air gap,
toothed ring gear (damage, runout, etc.), and
flywheel key.
3. Disconnect speed sensor connector from wiring
harness. (the connector with one heavy black
lead) Viewing the connector with dual aligning
rails on top, test resistance between the
terminals. A reading of 560 Ω 10% should again
be obtained.
NOTE: If the resistance is incorrect, remove the
screw securing the sensor to the mounting bracket
and replace the sensor. If the resistance in step 2 was
incorrect, but the resistance of the sensor alone was
correct, test the main harness circuit between the
sensor connector terminals and the corresponding pin
terminals in the main connector. Correct any
observed problem, reconnect the sensor, and perform
step 2 again."
Like you were saying the CPS can be going bad and cause a momentary loss of spark causing a stumble, or it can go out shutting down the motor and then start back up later, I've had both on cars. As to the fuel Pressure, it shouldn't vary like oil pressure, the pump and the pressure regulator should keep this pretty constant. If you get fluctuating pressure you have an issue, possibly a pump or regulator. If it were me I'd check the CPS like AKStew stated above. If that's good possibly loose wire to the coil but fuel system sounds like it's ok.

Craig

2011 850XP EPS, Roctane tires, 3000lb winch

2013 850XP LE, Glacier III Plow
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post #17 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 08:19 AM
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i have a polarirs 6 wheeler big boss 800 twin that only has about 500 miles on it, i usually get about 22 to 25 miles per tank of fuel, while out moose hunting this year it started using fuel like crazy, 10 to 12 miles per tank of fuel. the machine sounds different likeit has a miss people behind me says they can smell that it is running real rich. any ideas?
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post #18 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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Search on this forum for t-bap harness. I suspect that is your problem.

Stew

2011 Sportsman 500 HO Touring: Polaris 3500 lb. Winch, Kimpex Adventure XL Trunk, 7" Passenger Foot Risers, UNI Foam Filter
2006 Sportsman 500 X2 EFI: Superwinch Terra 25 w/Synthetic Rope, Kolpin 4 gal Gas Pack, 3" Passenger Foot Risers, 3-Headlight Mod, K&N Filter

SOLD 2010 Sportsman 300: Polaris 2500 lb. Winch, Kolpin Rear Seat (for the dog), UNI Foam Filter
SOLD 2006 Sportsman 700 Twin EFI: 27" Mud-Lite XTR, Superwinch Terra 35 w/Synthetic Rope, Polaris HD Front Springs, OEM Front Bumper Guard, WES Rear Seat, Kimpex Fender Guards w/Footpegs, 3-Headlight Mod, K&N Filter, Symtec Heated Grips
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post #19 of 51 (permalink) Old 10-08-2012, 02:14 PM
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it might not be a bad idea to relate the components of an EFI system to a carb unit. basically meaning for instance the Idle speed motor functions but is not limited to the pilot screw on a carb. sure it cannot do this mechanically so it needs other sensors to tell it what it needs as well as the ecu. I mean literally the ISM increases and decreases only air, and the pilot screw increases and decreases actual fuel air but they have the same end result. Thinking of the ecu as your own brain. you would take in data from the crank sensor, air sensor, and tps for instance then your job as " the brain or manager" would be to tell the Idle motor where to be for proper fuel mixture. At the same time " as the brain Manager" you would need to read that crank position to know when to pulse fuel ( used to be done with vacume on a needle jet/diaphram) and ignite fire ( spark ) These things used to be done mechanically with vacume and weights etc. But removing the mechanics created the need for intellegent input of the various parts of any given motor. what used to happen in a perfect balance of mechanical engineering is now a balance of mechanical, electrical, AND computer engineering. So now as backyard mechanics we need and are quite capable of and understanding of how to first test mechanical. this could be as simple as checking plugs to testing the mechanical movement of the ISM, or the out put of the fuel pump spray pattern of the injectors etc. then comes electrical. this includes multi-meter work knowing the proper volteges of each mentioned component what pins to check etc. the simplest I think is code reading of the ECM itself.
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post #20 of 51 (permalink) Old 10-20-2012, 06:58 PM
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Help Needed

So I have been reading all of these posts. I have a 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI. I don't ride it that much. It's been sitting in my shed for a few years, but I start it up 2 or 3 times a month and ride it around for about 30 minutes or so. I also add Staybil to the gas. Not too long ago after riding it one day, I let it rest a few days. Two days later it would crank but not run. I figured it would be bad gas so I drained all of the gas. I also bought a new fuel filter. It still wouldn't start. It will crank but won't run or idle on its own. I checked the fuel injector. It wasn't spraying correctly so I bought a new one and just replaced it today. I also drained out the recent gas and put in 3 gallons of premium. It gets good fuel spray but still doesn't run. I thought it could be the spark plug but it gets good spark when I test it. Cranking is not an issue. I am using a gel cell battery. Carburetor looks clean, removed the AMS sensor - that looks ok too, the fuel rail is clean. I tried starting it with 1/4 throttle. It started a little bit but wouldn't run on its own. I constantly had to pump the throttle to keep it running, barely. When it would not start, I stopped cranking it and there was a slight black smoke coming from the carburetor without the airbox on. Cranking and power, I believe, is not the issue. Any thoughts would be helpful since I don't know much about atv's.
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JOHNDEEREGEEN
2006 Sportsman 500 EFI 4x4
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