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post #11 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 04:06 AM
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I use motul 7100 10w-40 on my outlaw 525

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post #12 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 04:12 AM
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0 would be its weight when the engine (oil) is hot, 50 would be its weight when the engine (oil) is cold. 0W50 or 5w50 would be the same weight when starting cold, the difference would be once it is warmed up...???

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post #13 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Boburk View Post
0 would be its weight when the engine is hot, 50 would be its weight when the engine is cold. 0W50 or 5w50 would be the same weight when starting cold...???

Sean
You got it backwards. The number before the w is the cold flow property. After is the normal operation temp.

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post #14 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 04:54 AM
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If you're doing a lot of cold starts in well below zero temps, I would go with the 0W. If not, then 5W is fine. Polaris actually recommends the 5W-50 all the way down to -40 degrees.

I do see a couple problems with 0W-50 though.

1. It's going to be more prone to shearing.

2. It's not readily available. I don't think I've ever seen 0W-50 on a shelf in any store. However, most auto parts stores do carry 5W-50.


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post #15 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boburk View Post
0 would be its weight when the engine is hot, 50 would be its weight when the engine is cold. 0W50 or 5w50 would be the same weight when starting cold...???

Sean
No, in multi-grade oils, as in 0w50 or 10w30, the "w" is annotating the viscosity when its cold. The second number is the viscosity when hot, by standard that's usually at 100 deg C.

Some refer to the "w" as winter weight to signify that its a cold weight that uses modifiers if that helps keep it straight.

There is no base "0 weight" oil, there is "0w" which is two separate things. "0 weight" would imply that the oil itself without modifiers is "0 weight"; while "0w" is implying that the base stock oil of whatever weight it is, is being modified to comply with "0w" specifications known as VIIs. Think of it as honey. Its thick when you pour it, add a little water and it thins it out at room temp. Now heat it up and evap the water out of it and it thickens back up. VIIs are acting like the water in that little test. They lower the viscosity of the oil while its cold.

Same holds true to the 50 portion, it can be a standard 50 or it could be a modified 50 if they use a base stock lower then 50. They would use VIIs to thicken it say from a 30 base weight up to the viscosity of a 50 when hot (100C).

Remember viscosity changes with temp. You could run straight 50 weight oil in your quad since that's the weight of the oil when its hot right? The answer is no because the oil is so thick when cold it can't be pumped up to the top end and provide oil pressure. Once the oil is hot it would pump just like the 2w50 Polaris oil does because the heat viscosity of 50 weight is thinner then the cold viscosity of 50 weight. So you'd probably kill the top end by doing straight 50 weight, hence why we all use a 0w, 5w, 10w etc.

To my argument earlier, was about the effect of very cold oil where outside temp is below freezing. The potential to short the life of engine components is greater when using the wrong weight of oil. Very similar to the above scenario of using straight 50 weight.

As for the final weight a manufacture recommends, I would not stray too far from that at all. That number comes from oil pump pressure at operating temp, sealing ability, load carrying capacity of oil weight, "cushioning" between bearings and seals, etc.

Hope this clarifies a bit more.

EDIT: while wikipedia is not the end all be all, here's a link that gives some decent info. Look at the grade area for what we are discussing http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

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post #16 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 05:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KD0AXS View Post
If you're doing a lot of cold starts in well below zero temps, I would go with the 0W. If not, then 5W is fine. Polaris actually recommends the 5W-50 all the way down to -40 degrees.

I do see a couple problems with 0W-50 though.

1. It's going to be more prone to shearing.

2. It's not readily available. I don't think I've ever seen 0W-50 on a shelf in any store. However, most auto parts stores do carry 5W-50.


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That's using their 5w50 thought. Not all manufactures will recommend that temperature. I'd be hard press to even believe that number since that is in the range of 0w oils and they pour almost like honey at that temp. If you were to take that 5w oil down to that temp repeatedly during winter, you're looking at a lot of oil changes cause its going to shear down quickly.

1. yep agree, you want to try to have as little of a gap between cold and hot numbers. However your environmentals dictate how low that cold number needs to be...so to compensate, BUY EXCEPTIONAL OILS! don't cheap out on your oil.

2. agree as well, which makes it a pain in the rear to find. I'd like to know why they demand a 50 hot weight. The tolerances have got to be horrendous, or they are trying to quiet down the valve train noise...something is up with 50 weight. Here in the desert, a higher cold weight is fine during the summer if you use off the shelf oil, but winter time I'd go back to something the resembles 0w50. I think Amsoil has a 0w50 but I'd have to check again. I know Mobil 1 has a 0w40 if in a bind.

Last edited by Amdforever; 03-14-2013 at 05:15 AM.
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post #17 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 05:24 AM
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The higher hot weight is used for the constant rom's these engines run at. Also factor in the circumstances they live under, constant WOT will shear oil down.

A 5W50 syn will pour as easy as a 0W40 at its lowest rated temp. Slso hive the extra protection needed when plowing.
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post #18 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 06:15 AM
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Any good 0W40,5W40 or 5W50 oil will work. The main thing is keeping the oil changed at the proper time. Some people go by the owners manuel and go 100hrs which to me is way to long. You would be surprised at the amount of dirt that gets by even the best of filters. I have done oil analysis on some of my oils and I like to go 50 hrs between each oil change. That is what Blackstone Labs recommended to me for ATV's.

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post #19 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 05:40 AM
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post #20 of 95 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortecz71wv View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boburk View Post
0 would be its weight when the engine is hot, 50 would be its weight when the engine is cold. 0W50 or 5w50 would be the same weight when starting cold...???

Sean
You got it backwards. The number before the w is the cold flow property. After is the normal operation temp.

Matt


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Agree with Matt, the lower number is the cold pour rating, here is a description of how to read the viscosity rating on oil.

When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.

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