Water Pump Seal and Oil Seal Replacement on 2006 Sportsman 700 - Pics Inside - Page 6 - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #51 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 09:23 AM
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Thanks for the wonderful how-to AKStew! No more leak on my 04 Sportsman 500! One suggestion though, would it not be better to leave the nut on the shaft to prevent damage to the shaft? Thats what I did and it seemed to protect it pretty well.
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post #52 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 12:27 AM
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Hi Stew, Thanks for the post! That is some great information.

I have a 2005 Sportsman 800, so my water seal is a little different. The manual strongly suggests that I take the whole gear/stator cover off for fear of damaging the shaft, which looks like a pain in the butt. So I was wondering if you know if your method of using the screw and puller would work on the '05 800 machine?
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post #53 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 03:33 AM
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Is it normal to have small cracks inside the water pump casing? [attach]120063
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post #54 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 06:12 AM
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Yes - it is common, what you see is not cracks, but casting flashing - it's a quality issue common on die cast parts where the casting process is poorly controlled. It's cause has many possibilities including, but not limited to; worn or cheaply made dies, the quality of the metal used, die preparation prior to a production run and human error, but the bottom line is while it may not hurt the operation of the end product, it cost the manufacturer in wasted material and is unattractive to the consumer. You may grind or polish the defects out, but it will have little effect on the performance of the design.

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post #55 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willi Son View Post
Hi Stew, Thanks for the post! That is some great information.

I have a 2005 Sportsman 800, so my water seal is a little different. The manual strongly suggests that I take the whole gear/stator cover off for fear of damaging the shaft, which looks like a pain in the butt. So I was wondering if you know if your method of using the screw and puller would work on the '05 800 machine?
I don't think you'll get any response from AKstew. I haven't seen him on here in a very long time.
Your water pump seal is not any different than anyone else's. Most all liquid cooled Polaris engines except for the newer ones use the same type mechanical seal and they ALL tell you to open the case to change it. In fact, the 600, 700 and 800 engines all use the exact same seal from 2004-2017 no matter if its a Sportsman, RZR, Ranger and even the 800 Indy sleds!
I have no doubt Stew's method will work just fine but I was always leery of pulling against the pump shaft and if you don't intend to change the oil seal behind it drilling and putting screws in to pull without damaging the oil seal would be tricky.
I prefer to just carefully peel the old seal out with a screwdriver and/or small pry bar as shown in the attached video. You just have to take your time and be very careful not to bugger up the aluminum case. The seal cup you're trying to get out is fairly soft brass and once you get it started pealing up around the lip you just keep working around it till you get it out. I've done a bunch of them that way and never had a problem.
There's a bunch of Youtube videos (some good some not so much) on the subject. Just search "800 Polaris water pump seal video" or something similar. Here's a couple. In the first video at around 2:55 the guy shows you what I mean about pealing the seal out.
In the second video, the guy is working on a 800 RZR but its the same engine/same seal. He already has the seal out but he shows the installation of the new seal. Start watching at around 1:55 I think. I too use a 32mm twelve point socket to install the seal like he does but some folks use pieces of PVC or other pipe of the appropriate size. Some ebay seal kits come with what they call a seal installation tool which is basically a piece of PVC with a machine lip on it at a premium price lol. Part of the seal is ceramic material and you must be very careful putting it in or you will destroy your new seal and have to start over with another new one!!!
Good luck no matter which method you choose. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask and make sure to let us know how it goes.

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post #56 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 07:39 PM
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Thanks latebird, I wondered if the what looked like cracks were contributing to the Antifreeze that was leaking out the weep hole. Glad it was only a manufacturer defect. Lol
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post #57 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:14 PM
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Ok willi, here's the deal I was describing in my PM.

Below you'll see the Polaris diagram of the oil pump (1&2) and water pump (8)
You'll notice they show the water pump mechanical seal (11) being OUTSIDE the impeller lol... that's impossible!
When you take the water pump cover (13) off you have a gasket (12) next is the nut (10) and washer (9) that holds the impeller on the shaft (5). When you take the impeller off there is the two-piece water pump seal (11). The inner part of the two-part seal is what's stuck in the case cavity that you have to pry or pull out. Inside of that is a hollow air space about 1/2" wide with NOTHING in it between the water pump seal and the oil seal located at the back/inside of the hollow cavity. This is where the weep hole is located that exits to the outside world. If the water pump seal leaks you get coolant out the weep hole. If the oil seal leaks you get oil out the weep hole. This is designed to keep coolant out of the oil and oil out of the coolant when either of the seals fail. Whichever fluid is leaking exits out the weep hole so you know there's a seal failure IF the weep hole isn't plugged by mud!!
While I'm on that, make sure to use a pipe cleaner or wire or something to clear the weep hole and clean out the cavity good since that is what usually causes the water pump seal to fail. That weep hole is right on the front of the engine case and down low so mud and dirt can get forced into it and everyone knows seals and mud and grit don't play well together. You'll be surprised how much dirt will be in the cavity and the part of the shaft in the cavity will be rusty. Clean everything up good before putting the new seal in. Many of the hard-core mudders tap the weep hole where it exits the case and install a little fitting or drilled out grease zerk and put a piece of tubing on it to keep dirt out while still allowing any fluid to exit. The 800 RZR's are the worst since the engine sits sideways with the weep hole right next to and in front of the right rear wheel.
Ok, back to the diagrams.
Remember that the shaft (5) runs all the way through all the parts I've been talking about from inside the engine to drive the oil pump through the bearing (3) THEN through the oil seal (#2 in the magneto diagram) then out through the hollow weep hole cavity. Note that the shaft drawing (5) shows a machined relief section in the middle of the shaft. This is the part of the shaft in the air through weep hole cavity. It will be dirty and rusty. The shaft then continues on through the water pump seal to hold the impeller on its outer end. When you reinstall the impeller don't forget that it has a D-shaped hole that fits on the D shape milled on the shaft end.
Another big mistake in the water pump diagram is the screw (#6). It looks like it goes in the end of the shaft. In fact, there are four those screws and these actually go through the outer periphery of the oil pump housing to bolt it to the crankcase inside (#2 in the oil pump/water pump diagram).
Sorry for the novel but its a little hard to get your head around how it all goes together looking at the very inaccurate parts diagrams unless you've been in there before.
Hope this helps.
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Last edited by polman500; 09-06-2019 at 10:45 PM.
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post #58 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 11:53 PM
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That's amazing polman500! That's exactly where I was getting confused. Thanks again for that. I'm getting my new water seal later today, so i'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers!!!
Adam
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post #59 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 08:54 AM
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LOL, yeah I got on a roll late last night Willi. I too was scratching my head the first time. I kept looking at the pump diagram and thinking... "It CAN'T work like that!" It just didn't add up.
Just take you time and you should be fine. The new seal is sorta fragile so don't drop it on the garage floor or bang on the inner part of it ANY. Make sure to get the hole clean and take care that you are only making contact with the outer rim while driving it in you'll be ok.
One other thing. The OEM seal will have sealant already on it. Most aftermarket ones I've seen do not. If you add any sealant do so sparingly... only a very light film around outside where it goes in the hole. A very light film of grease or assembly lube on the shaft for the inner shaft seal is not a bad idea either like the RZR guy in the video sorta shows but don't really explain.
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post #60 of 60 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 08:48 AM
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How did it go willi?
Haven't heard anything back from you.
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