AWD Hubstrut Hilliard Clutch Troubleshooting/Diagnoses - Page 17 - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #161 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 11:29 AM
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My 2001 has to be put in reverse to completely disengage hubs sometimes. Most of the time I do it out of habit as it only takes a third of a turn of rear tires to engage/disengage hubs


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post #162 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 05:58 PM
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First of all , I'm a new member here...., but I'm not new to forums.
I know this thread is old, but I recently purchased a 2001 sportsman 500HO with these hubs and while going through and checking everything I came across this issue.

I've read this entire thread twice and still not sure which way to go.

My problem - 1 hub stays engaged after turning off AWD.
- I have taken everything apart on both hubs to see if anything is different and found nothing.
- With all wheels off ground, if I move this hub back and forth a few times it may dis-engage and it may not,,,, more often not (no rhyme or reason why or why not)
- Armature plate doesn't seem to have any excess 'magnetics' to it
- When I engage the AWD, all magnetics work as they should
- I moved the hilliard clutch to the other side and same thing on the new side

This leads me to believe its in this clutch itself, but everything looks good.

Do you think it could be as simple as the retainer spring getting old and not retaining like it should ?
This system seems very finicky.

Any help is appreciated,
Thanks in advance
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post #163 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 07:23 PM
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That is odd. Drag created by the magnet on the hilliard clutch cage causes the hub to lock. It's a directional lock. Once the rear wheels stop slipping it should cause the cage to unlock. Its mechanical at that point.
Take the bearings out of the cage and turn them over. Think of it like this. They are basically long pins. The end that was to the outside of the cage, flip to the inside. All of them. Maybe a slight taper worn into them is causing them to lock. That's all I can come up with off hand.
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post #164 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibbw View Post
That is odd. Drag created by the magnet on the hilliard clutch cage causes the hub to lock. It's a directional lock. Once the rear wheels stop slipping it should cause the cage to unlock. Its mechanical at that point.
Take the bearings out of the cage and turn them over. Think of it like this. They are basically long pins. The end that was to the outside of the cage, flip to the inside. All of them. Maybe a slight taper worn into them is causing them to lock. That's all I can come up with off hand.

Sounds feasible, I'll give it a try

Thanks
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post #165 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 01:21 AM
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I’ve got an 01 and I had to replace the hub , I had access to a used parts guy and it cured the problem, also make sure you use the proper fluid too
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post #166 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 06:33 AM
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On my son-in-laws 1990 Trail Boss 4x4 I found that the cages inside the hubs were worn which allowed the rollers in the clutch to hang up in the engaged position. I ended up with complete hub units from Powersportsnation.com and fixed the problem. I am not sure you can get just the cage from Polaris any more, but most of the used hubs are sold as a complete unit. They will just need a good cleaning before installation.
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Mine: 2018 Sportsman 850SP - 26" Bear Claw HTRs on OEM steel wheels(I really don't like the Aluminum ones)
Polaris Hand warmers, Mirrors.
Hers: 2019 Sportsman 450. 26" Bear Claw HTRs on Moose 427X Wheels.

2007 Sportsman 500 EFI, Polaris Winch, 25" Bear Claws QSC Clutch Kit, Hand Warmers
2001 Magnum 325 MOSE 12" rear wheel conversion. 25" Sedona Coyote tires
2017 Polaris Ranger 1000XP - Roof and front glass
2018 Kawasaki KLR650
2001 Magnum 325 Warn winch and Moose 60" plow-Sent to Daughter and Son-In-Law since his blew up
SOLD 2004 Sportsman 600 Twin
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post #167 of 183 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stave7119 View Post
On my son-in-laws 1990 Trail Boss 4x4 I found that the cages inside the hubs were worn which allowed the rollers in the clutch to hang up in the engaged position. I ended up with complete hub units from Powersportsnation.com and fixed the problem. I am not sure you can get just the cage from Polaris any more, but most of the used hubs are sold as a complete unit. They will just need a good cleaning before installation.
X2. The cages, rollers or cam (the hex nut looking thing) might be worn. Try swapping these components to the other side. One of two things is likely to happen:
Problem will switch sides or
Problem will go away b/c the parts are moving in the opposite directions and the wear isn't a prob going that way.
Either way you'll know something you didn't know before.

Btw, I'm really glad this post is still helping people even though I don't have my Sportsman anymore

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'01 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO project (needs a 'lil TLC. OK, OK, a LOT of TLC)
My first 4WD ATV!

1" wheel spacers, 25" STI Black Diamond Tires, Front and rear storage with seat.

My other ride is a 2-stroke sport quad.

Last edited by Muggzy; 12-18-2018 at 03:34 PM.
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post #168 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 08:06 AM
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I'm having problem with my 2000 polaris magnum 325. My right wheel didnt engage at all. I read my book and read forums. I checked the hub fluid first and changed with polaris on demand fluid. Now the right wheel turns but I can stop it with my hand. So I checked the electrical after reading this.
With a fully charged battery, at the battery I got 12.84v. At idle I got 13.12-13.20v. Above idle I got 13.40v. Then I checked the voltage at the awd wires. On the right side with the key on/44 on/ in forward I got 10.74-10.80v. With the atv running I got 12.08-12.14v. On the left side with key on/44 on/in forward I got 11.50-11.53v. With it running I got 12.17-12.18v. I checked the ohms, right side I got 24.6 ohms and left side I got 24.8 ohms. I thought the volts and ohms was close enough. But now I'm not so sure.
I got curious so i took the hub apart. I found that the armature plate was slightly bent. I order another one and put in on last night. I can pull the armature plate off with a little effort but it holds better than the old one. Still no luck. I can still stop it with my hands.I was just curious if my voltage and ohms are good enough. It was also recommended to switch out the hubs and everything to see if the problem switching sides or stays. I'm thinking about trying that next. Any help and info will be appreciated, thanks.

Last edited by Hazzard Schultz; 01-18-2019 at 02:22 PM. Reason: Missed word
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post #169 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 08:49 AM
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I don't have my manual in front of me to tell you the specs on the hub magnets. Seems to me that the ohm and voltage readings are pretty good. However you should have some difficulty pulling the plate off the magnet when it is engaged. The cheapest thing it to swap parts from side to side. Leave the magnets and move everything else. As said above you will know something you didn't know before. If the problem stays with the same wheel, I would suspect the magnetic coil. If it moves to the other side it will be harder because it could be the cage and rollers or the hub itself.

Mine: 2018 Sportsman 850SP - 26" Bear Claw HTRs on OEM steel wheels(I really don't like the Aluminum ones)
Polaris Hand warmers, Mirrors.
Hers: 2019 Sportsman 450. 26" Bear Claw HTRs on Moose 427X Wheels.

2007 Sportsman 500 EFI, Polaris Winch, 25" Bear Claws QSC Clutch Kit, Hand Warmers
2001 Magnum 325 MOSE 12" rear wheel conversion. 25" Sedona Coyote tires
2017 Polaris Ranger 1000XP - Roof and front glass
2018 Kawasaki KLR650
2001 Magnum 325 Warn winch and Moose 60" plow-Sent to Daughter and Son-In-Law since his blew up
SOLD 2004 Sportsman 600 Twin
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post #170 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 12:04 PM
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The NEW 99 500 sportsman that I still have with 2k miles did it from the day it was new. I did the same as you guys. It still does it, my Honda loving bro inlaw says it's just a Polaris lol I just leave it in 4 whl drive. ;]
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