hadr shifting 2004 magnum 330 - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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hard shifting 2004 magnum 330

just rebuilt this quad this winter has been really well taken care of aside from poor oil change regiment.
she runs great but I noticed its difficult to shift into and out of all the gears. it will go in it just requires to much force. my 2001 xplorer is more or less effortless shifting. ive changed all the fluids w/ factory recommended Polaris oils. is there a specific lube that goes into the shifter unit im not aware of? anyone familiar w/ an issue like this? thanks

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 05:53 AM
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Most hard shifting issues can be attributed to idle speed and/or clutch issues, but incorrect transmission lube may play a part also. The transmission should have the recommended Polaris lube or automatic transmission fluid in it. I used ATF or Honda two stroke transmission lube in all my two stroke motorcycles (including two stroke street bikes) and quads that use separate oil for the engine and transmission. Examples: in my 2004 CRF250X four stroke, liquid cooled, electric start race bike, I use Silkolene 15w50 oil in the engine and Honda two stroke transmission oil in the clutch/transmission. In my 89 KX125 I used ATF type F - in my old 1969 Kawasaki H1 500 triple I used ATF - in my first motorcycle, a 1965 Wards Riverside, I used 10w30 non-detergent motor oil - I believe I replaced the clutch in that bike every year. I dont know if it was the oil or me just not knowing how to use a multi-plate wet clutch. (of course the clutch was not as good as modern clutches - it only had 4 fiber plates vs today's 7 to 9 plate clutches)

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 09:56 AM
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You ARE pressing the foot brake when you try to shift aren't you? That machine has a park lockout with a spring on the foot brake lever that pulls the lockout plunger to allow you to shift.
If you are already doing that then its likely idle speed or a clutch issue.

As for the shift mechanism itself on the side of the tranny, they will sometimes get water in them and rust up the detent pawl and gears making them a little hard to shift. They need cleaned up and a little grease on them if that's the problem. But I'd eliminate other stuff first before going there.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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yes im pressing rear brake peddle but that's only needed going into high or park. my problem occurs shifting between any and all gears.
I don't have the clutch alignment tool. does anyone know the relief specs from back of primary to back of secondary?
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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like I stated in original post, im running all factory recommended fluids
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:21 AM
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You can do a quick eyeball assessment by looking down on the belt in the clutches while running to see if the belt is running against one side of the drive clutch. Sometimes you can add or remove washer shims behind the secondary to get better belt alignment. (#1)
Does that machine have EBS? If so, you can do a preliminary check of the one-way bearing by getting the belt off and see if the one-way spins easily one direction but not the other. They commonly get dry or worn with age and will cause creeping/hard shifting. It may need serviced or replaced and for sure new washers installed (numbers 13 &15). They wear out pretty regularly and need replaced. Especially in the older style clutches like you have.
Some guys replace the one-way with a two-way bearing to eliminate the issue.
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