2002 magnum 325 oil leak - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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2002 magnum 325 oil leak

I have a small oil leak that looks like it's coming from head running down on exhaust. Has anybody had a leak there that could give me pointer as to where it might coming from? I've just started taking the skin off to adjust valve clearance.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 12:20 PM
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I have a small oil leak that looks like it's coming from head running down on exhaust. Has anybody had a leak there that could give me pointer as to where it might coming from? I've just started taking the skin off to adjust valve clearance.
Could be from one or more of several places. I'd suspect #8 the breather cover gasket but it could be an o-ring #2 on the valve cover or #23 the cam gasket. You'll have to degrease/clean it off and inspect closely to tell.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the picture that helps a lot I'm going to pressure wash it then run it a while and see if I can tell where it's coming from.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 05:40 AM
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I had to reseal the cam cover (not the breather cover #6) on one a while back - the cam cover is sealed with a liquid gasket (not an o-ring or paper gasket and silicone sealer is not an acceptable sealant for the application) - if the leak is not severe (not leaving a drip on the floor when parked), I would not be concerned with it, but wash it off and check it - it might just be a loose tappet cover or a bad o-ring on a tappet cover - the tappet cover can be removed and replaced with a wrench and the o-ring (part #3086414 @ $13 is exorbitantly expensive), but can be replaced extremely easily.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 05:50 AM
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I had to reseal the cam cover (not the breather cover #6) on one a while back - the cam cover is sealed with a liquid gasket (not an o-ring or paper gasket and silicone sealer is not an acceptable sealant for the application) - if the leak is not severe (not leaving a drip on the floor when parked), I would not be concerned with it, but wash it off and check it - it might just be a loose tappet cover or a bad o-ring on a tappet cover - the tappet cover can be removed and replaced with a wrench and the o-ring (part #3086414 @ $13 is exorbitantly expensive), but can be replaced extremely easily.
Yeah, I looked at that cam cover with no gasket latebird and I agree. Unless it was pretty bad I'd just leave it alone. What would you use to seal that?
I'd probably use a thin film of utra grey during assembly.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 06:56 AM
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What you refer to as ultra grey; Yamaha calls Yamabond, Honda calls Honda Bond, Kawasaki calls Kawasaki Bond - I use Three Bond 1184 - different names, but pretty much the same stuff - Kawasaki bond is a little thinner and more silver than grey, Yamabond is a little thinner than Honda Bond and Honda Bond could be Three Bond with a different label. I'm not sure what KTM or Suzuki uses - I just use Three Bond 1184 universally - I can get it faster and cheaper than the others.

One thing you will not find in my shop is RTV or silicone seal - I do have a few tubes of FIX ALL - it's a product from Multi Mist which was sold by Certified Labs - unlike silicone seal, it is a self leveling cohesive resin that is gas and oil resistant - when cured, it will stretch to over 3 times it's length and is an actual adhesive - I discovered it when patching tarps used to cover loads of roll-formed steel on semi trailers - cut a piece of material from an old tarp large enough to cover a tear in a good tarp - clean the patch and the good tarp with MEK or Acetone, coat the patch with Fix All on one side, place the patch over the defect (tear or hole) of the good tarp, roll the patch with a piece of pipe to remove air bubbles, place a weight on the patch and allow to cure - the patch is waterproof, solvent resistant, flexible at sub-zero temperatures and permanent - prevents the defect in the good tarp from expanding which ultimately makes the good tarp a junk tarp - occasionally I will find a use when working on motorcycles and ATV's - one time I wanted to stop an oil leak without taking the engine apart because the engine was on it's last leg anyway (it really was not worth fixing) - I cleaned the seam on the engine with Acetone in a pressurized spray can and applied the Fix All externally to the area of the leak - 5 years later, the engine was junked - the Fix All was discolored (changed from crystal clear to yellow and cloudy), was still adhered (could not pull it off and resisted being cut) and the leak was still sealed. It was expensive ($35 for a 10 oz tube), but was a product of the space program - unfortunately it has been discontinued and I can not find an equivalent product.

2006 Trailboss 330
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2005 TRX400EX (FOR SALE)
2003 LT-Z400 (needs engine work & is for sale)
2004 CRF250X
1971 Triumph 650 Bonneville (has 5 original miles)
1972 Triumph 650 Bonneville (undergoing restoration)
1979 Honda CBX (6 cylinder)
1970 Kawasaki G3SS 90cc Bushmaster
1976 Suzuki RE5 Rotary (not running & FOR SALE)
1981 Kawasaki KZ305-A
1981 Suzuki GS450T (undergoing repair & will be for sale when done)
1982 Kawasaki KZ750-H (FOR SALE)
1989 Honda VT1100C
2007 Vectrix VCTX Electric Scooter
1965 Montgomery Ward 3 1/2 HP Tecumseh Mini Bike
1970 Triumph T25 250cc Trailblazer
1968 Triumph 250cc Flat Tracker

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 07:41 AM
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Yeah, I was pretty sure ultra grey was bsically the same stuff as Yamabond and Hondabond. I've used it to assemble several engines that have no gaskets and call for the other brand-specific whateverbond with good results and was pretty sure it was the same stuff.
I have to admit to having clear marine grade silicone in my shop but its ONLY used for a few very specific things. One of those being to install fender flares. I put a small bead along the mating surface of the flare to prevent mud and water from splashing through over the top of the flares.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 09:03 AM
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Silicone is fine for outside the engine, I just don't get into bodywork - almost everything I do is related to the engine, fuel system, electrical system and drive line - and silicone is specified for certain applications, but most of the time where silicone is recommended, there are better products that can be used

Silicone is kinda like duct tape - my wife thinks everything can be fixed with duct tape - she says it's like the FORCE in Star Wars - it has a light side and a dark side...... and it holds the Universe together

2006 Trailboss 330
2002 Sportsman 90
2005 TRX400EX (FOR SALE)
2003 LT-Z400 (needs engine work & is for sale)
2004 CRF250X
1971 Triumph 650 Bonneville (has 5 original miles)
1972 Triumph 650 Bonneville (undergoing restoration)
1979 Honda CBX (6 cylinder)
1970 Kawasaki G3SS 90cc Bushmaster
1976 Suzuki RE5 Rotary (not running & FOR SALE)
1981 Kawasaki KZ305-A
1981 Suzuki GS450T (undergoing repair & will be for sale when done)
1982 Kawasaki KZ750-H (FOR SALE)
1989 Honda VT1100C
2007 Vectrix VCTX Electric Scooter
1965 Montgomery Ward 3 1/2 HP Tecumseh Mini Bike
1970 Triumph T25 250cc Trailblazer
1968 Triumph 250cc Flat Tracker

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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I found my leak it was leaking around the lower valve cover. The cover was tight when I took it of,but it seemed like the cover was bottoming out before the o-ring. At $13 a piece I didn't buy any o-rings just put a small bead of ultra red silicone on top o-ring no more leaks. I also got the valve clearances set they were pretty loose hadn't been set since I bought it 17 yrs ago.
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