Front drive shaft separated help - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Question Front drive shaft separated help

Hi guys,

Was replacing the bolts on my A arms this afternoon since I noticed the fronts bolts were completely loose. Anyway I went a bit too far because I took the A arm out so I could clean in the holes, and the god damn drive shaft popped out of the CV joint in the hub. I had this happen to me before when I first got the machine, and I have to say, it is a royal pain in the a**.

Any tips to get it back in? I tried the whole afternoon but wasn't successful. I took the tie rod off, the shock mount on the top off, the A arm is completely off, so the drive shaft has a "straight shot" directly into the hub, and I still can't get it in. I realize there's a roll pin in the end of the shaft at the diff side, but it looks like a b**** to get out as well, no room.

On another note, my lower ball joint is near the end of its life. I saw in the manual they use a special tool to get it out and put it back in...can that be done with any regular tools, or needs that special tool specifically?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 06:46 PM
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What year machine? If this is one with the 4x4 hilliard clutch in the hub you are gonna need to take it apart to make sure it gets in there correctly. If you have the hilliard clutch in the front diff you might be able to get it back together but probably easiest to take the hubs off the spindle/strut and start over.

Mine: 2018 Sportsman 850SP - 26" Bear Claw HTRs on OEM steel wheels(I really don't like the Aluminum ones)
Polaris Hand warmers, Mirrors.
Hers: 2007 Sportsman 500 EFI, Polaris Winch, 26" Bear Claw HTRs on Moose 427x Wheels. QSC Clutch Kit, Hand Warmers
2001 Magnum 325 MOSE 12" rear wheel conversion. 25" Sedona Coyote tires
2001 Magnum 325 Warn winch and Moose 60" plow
2017 Polaris Ranger 1000XP - Roof and front glass
SOLD 2004 Sportsman 600 Twin
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stave7119 View Post
What year machine? If this is one with the 4x4 hilliard clutch in the hub you are gonna need to take it apart to make sure it gets in there correctly. If you have the hilliard clutch in the front diff you might be able to get it back together but probably easiest to take the hubs off the spindle/strut and start over.
Hi

Thanks for your reply. It is a 2008 model with the magnetic hubs. By "take it apart", what do you mean exactly? The hub assembly? That was initially my plan after I couldn't get it back in. I tried taking the nut off the end of the spindle but I can't stop the CV joint from turning. Now that it separated from the drive shaft itself, it just spins with the boot.

Also I searched for a while looking at the strut assembly, and I can't find a grease zerk anywhere on it for the lower ball joint, even though it says there is one in the 2008 service manual I have. What's the deal with that?

Last edited by Sugarkryptonite; 05-16-2019 at 06:59 PM.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 05:46 AM
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I misunderstood the problem, but the answer is the same. I think you are gonna have to take the whole thing apart to get it fixed. The roll pins at the diff are not that difficult to get out but you have to get them lined up so you can get a punch on them at the right angle. Once you get them out replace them with the correct size grade 8 bolt and nut. Since you will probably need to take the boot of the cv joint anyway to get the joint back together you might as well cut the clamps and pull it back so you can hold the shaft and get the nut off. PIA to be sure, but I don't see another choice. With the boot slid out of the way maybe you can see what the joint needs. Guessing that the inner star is cocked instead of straight on to the shaft. Once you get it back together it can come apart so you can get new clamps on it.

Mine: 2018 Sportsman 850SP - 26" Bear Claw HTRs on OEM steel wheels(I really don't like the Aluminum ones)
Polaris Hand warmers, Mirrors.
Hers: 2007 Sportsman 500 EFI, Polaris Winch, 26" Bear Claw HTRs on Moose 427x Wheels. QSC Clutch Kit, Hand Warmers
2001 Magnum 325 MOSE 12" rear wheel conversion. 25" Sedona Coyote tires
2001 Magnum 325 Warn winch and Moose 60" plow
2017 Polaris Ranger 1000XP - Roof and front glass
SOLD 2004 Sportsman 600 Twin
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stave7119 View Post
I misunderstood the problem, but the answer is the same. I think you are gonna have to take the whole thing apart to get it fixed. The roll pins at the diff are not that difficult to get out but you have to get them lined up so you can get a punch on them at the right angle. Once you get them out replace them with the correct size grade 8 bolt and nut. Since you will probably need to take the boot of the cv joint anyway to get the joint back together you might as well cut the clamps and pull it back so you can hold the shaft and get the nut off. PIA to be sure, but I don't see another choice. With the boot slid out of the way maybe you can see what the joint needs. Guessing that the inner star is cocked instead of straight on to the shaft. Once you get it back together it can come apart so you can get new clamps on it.
Thanks. I was able to get the joint back together after taking the boot off. Unfortunately it came out a couple more times after trying to get the suspension back together. On another note, any idea about the no grease zerk on the upright? I checked more today, no holes for it either.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 05:47 PM
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Nope, no grease zerk on the ball joint. On my Magnums and some other older machines I have worked on there was a zerk for the lower ball joint. But no one ever greased it cause it was kinda hard to see and get to. I think they just stopped adding it. New ball joints don't come with any way to get grease into them.

My 2004 Sportsman 600 didn't have any grease zerks on any of the suspension or driveline parts. Always thought that was dumb....Ford did it back in the early 80s with "lifetime" lubrication. Don't remember what they called it but it didn't work then either.

Mine: 2018 Sportsman 850SP - 26" Bear Claw HTRs on OEM steel wheels(I really don't like the Aluminum ones)
Polaris Hand warmers, Mirrors.
Hers: 2007 Sportsman 500 EFI, Polaris Winch, 26" Bear Claw HTRs on Moose 427x Wheels. QSC Clutch Kit, Hand Warmers
2001 Magnum 325 MOSE 12" rear wheel conversion. 25" Sedona Coyote tires
2001 Magnum 325 Warn winch and Moose 60" plow
2017 Polaris Ranger 1000XP - Roof and front glass
SOLD 2004 Sportsman 600 Twin
stave7119 is online now  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stave7119 View Post
Nope, no grease zerk on the ball joint. On my Magnums and some other older machines I have worked on there was a zerk for the lower ball joint. But no one ever greased it cause it was kinda hard to see and get to. I think they just stopped adding it. New ball joints don't come with any way to get grease into them.

My 2004 Sportsman 600 didn't have any grease zerks on any of the suspension or driveline parts. Always thought that was dumb....Ford did it back in the early 80s with "lifetime" lubrication. Don't remember what they called it but it didn't work then either.
Thanks. It's in the manual for 2009 Scrambler 500 4x4, maybe they forgot to remove it?


Last edited by Sugarkryptonite; 05-17-2019 at 06:21 PM.
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