I've got the same problem. The plastic part with aluminum shield attached was self explanatory but I don't know where to put the big piece of stick-on heat tape or the little piece of heat tape or what to do with the 2 rubber washers and 2 rivets and steel bracket. Mine is a 1 up so my metal bracket is bent differently from yours but other than that, same exact problem.
The first step on the instructions card that comes with the kit requires you to access the dealer website and of course owners like us aren't allowed to do that. So hopefully some knowledgeable person or maybe even a Polaris employee will come to our rescue and share this info with us.
EDIT: I emailed Polaris and they sent me a PDF containing the instructions. I'd be happy to forward it to you via email or post it on here if someone can explain how to do that.
The big piece of heat shield goes on the bottom/back of your fuel tank. You have to remove both plastic side panels to gain the necessary access. Start at top and work down. The side with 3 cuts in it goes on top/back.
The small piece of heat shield goes on the rectangular support on bottom right side of seat. First remove the little rubber pad and clean the area, then they recommend using a propane torch to slightly heat that area and stick on the small piece of heat shield with the 2 holes in it aligned with the 2 holes and once you've done that, replace the little rubber pad you previously removed on top of the small piece of heat shield.
The metal bracket gets riveted to the bottom of your seat in between the round supports near the front of the seat. I think it's supposed to help keep the seat from sliding sideways. Not sure what it has to do with heat. Need 3/16" drill and rivet gun.
The 2 big washers and plastic pins go under the seat on the right side near the air cleaner. With the seat removed you can see 2 plastic pins that go down through the plastic and into metal frame. Remove those 2 plastic pins and slide the big plastic washer between the plastic body panel and the frame and either reinsert the same pin or use one of the pins supplied in kit. The aft one is sort of hard to insert because the washer is forced to bend rather than lay flat and that causes the holes to not align very well. I used a big set of tin snips to make a straight cut about 1/3 of the way between outer edge and center hole. The "modified" side of washer was on outboard side and since some had been removed it didn't have to be bent quite as much so that made it possible to insert plastic pin.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Last edited by jtsailjt; Yesterday at 04:17 PM.
Reason: Additional information.