08 Sportsman X2 800 Won't Turn Over - New Battery - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Question 08 Sportsman X2 800 Won't Turn Over - New Battery

I enjoy my Polaris ATV, but don't really know a lot about them. I ride it in the summer and put it up for the Montana winter. Each spring, I usually charge or change the battery and it is good to go. This spring, the battery was weak so I replaced it with a brand new AGM one and expected it to start right up. But instead I just get a click. The screen lights right up, and the battery is good. If I had to guess, I would think stuck starter, but I don't know if cars compare to ATVs.

Please could I get some advice on how to begin troubleshooting this.

2008 X2 700, 2002 Sportsman 500
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 04:10 PM
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When I have a "no start with clicking issue" on a quad, the first thing I do is hold or repeatedly click the start button and start jiggling wires around the battery and solenoid. Usually that will turn up a loose terminal and it will start up. Hopefully that works for you. If not you can diagnose more.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 04:54 PM
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I have run into many instances on vehicles in general when you hear the click. All well and good except it does not mean the start solenoid is making contact from battery cable to the other post that goes to starter. Make sure the battery cable is sending 12v to solenoid large terminal. Depending on access one can put 12 v to post that goes to starter momentarily. If it cranks, starter is good. If not, solenoid may be bad.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 06:06 AM
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Put a meter on the battery - what's the voltage without pressing the start button (or turning the key to the start position) and then what's the battery voltage when holding in the start position?

2006 Trailboss 330
2002 Sportsman 90
2005 TRX400EX (FOR SALE)
2003 LT-Z400 (needs engine work & is for sale)
2004 CRF250X
1971 Triumph 650 Bonneville (has 5 original miles)
1972 Triumph 650 Bonneville (undergoing restoration)
1979 Honda CBX (6 cylinder)
1970 Kawasaki G3SS 90cc Bushmaster
1976 Suzuki RE5 Rotary (not running & FOR SALE)
1981 Kawasaki KZ305-A
1981 Suzuki GS450T (undergoing repair & will be for sale when done)
1982 Kawasaki KZ750-H (FOR SALE)
1989 Honda VT1100C
2007 Vectrix VCTX Electric Scooter
1965 Montgomery Ward 3 1/2 HP Tecumseh Mini Bike
1970 Triumph T25 250cc Trailblazer
1968 Triumph 250cc Flat Tracker

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for these suggestions, you and others. I will do this test on voltage and report.

I had an idea that I wanted to run by the group. I work on my own cars and can usually troubleshoot them because I have the diagnostic computers and adapters that plug in so I can see everything that the car reports. I used these system to troubleshoot and fix complicated problems on a Mercedes.

When I put the key in ignition I see a "check engine" notice on the little dash/speedo dial. This probably going to sound stupid, but I am going to ask it anyway as that is the way I learn, do they sell diagnostic tools for ATVs that I could plug in and read the faults? If so, which reasonably priced one/good quality would anyone recommend for a Polaris. (I am only ever going to buy Polaris ATVs).

Quote:
Originally Posted by latebird View Post
Put a meter on the battery - what's the voltage without pressing the start button (or turning the key to the start position) and then what's the battery voltage when holding in the start position?

2008 X2 700, 2002 Sportsman 500
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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I was able to get help with today. I couldn't turn the key and hold the voltmeter probes on the terminals at the same time. Here is the result:

Voltage of battery ATV just sitting there nothing turned on: 12.8V

Voltage of battery, key turned all the way to start it: 6.8v

No wonder, I just have a click. This is brand new battery that that charges just fine with my BatteryMINDer. I know it is a bit low now, less than 13.4, but I've tried to start the ATV several times. So whatever this load is has taken it down.

Please could I get advice on what is likely wrong and how to fix it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by latebird View Post
Put a meter on the battery - what's the voltage without pressing the start button (or turning the key to the start position) and then what's the battery voltage when holding in the start position?

2008 X2 700, 2002 Sportsman 500
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 09:54 AM
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You have either; A) (and most likely) a bad battery or B) a bad starter motor

Normally a good battery will not drop below about 10.5 volts when cranking the engine, but if the starter is bad, it could have an excessive current draw which will cause the battery to drop very low - typically about 8 volts

Use some jumper cables and a car battery - connect the positive to the positive battery cable which you disconnected from to on board battery and connect the negative to the NEG side of the battery - if it starts normally, you have a bad battery - if it's still slow or draggy, connect the ground jumper to a known good frame ground and try again, if still slow or draggy, connect the positive battery jumper directly to the starter motor lead - if it starts normally you may have a bad solenoid - if it's still slow, replace the starter motor

2006 Trailboss 330
2002 Sportsman 90
2005 TRX400EX (FOR SALE)
2003 LT-Z400 (needs engine work & is for sale)
2004 CRF250X
1971 Triumph 650 Bonneville (has 5 original miles)
1972 Triumph 650 Bonneville (undergoing restoration)
1979 Honda CBX (6 cylinder)
1970 Kawasaki G3SS 90cc Bushmaster
1976 Suzuki RE5 Rotary (not running & FOR SALE)
1981 Kawasaki KZ305-A
1981 Suzuki GS450T (undergoing repair & will be for sale when done)
1982 Kawasaki KZ750-H (FOR SALE)
1989 Honda VT1100C
2007 Vectrix VCTX Electric Scooter
1965 Montgomery Ward 3 1/2 HP Tecumseh Mini Bike
1970 Triumph T25 250cc Trailblazer
1968 Triumph 250cc Flat Tracker

Shop Owner and Mechanic with over 50 years experience
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. I've read over what you wrote several times to make sure I get it. I'll locate a car battery and do this trouble shooting. I think (could be wrong, and I am open to being proved wrong) that the battery is good. The reason I think that it is a brand new AGM battery. I took out the old AGM battery and put it on my BatteryMINDer and it came back as good, solid green and desulphated just fine.

I've been thinking about why I have this problem after this being such a reliable ATV. (I understand components just fail with age too) I don't know if this makes sense, but I will see what you think. I've mostly kept this ATV outdoors. In 2018, the seat plastic gave out, all seemed to crack at the same time. At the end of the year the upholsterer had time to do the work. Before fall, he wouldn't quote me a time to do the job. So I gave him the seat and the ATV sat outside in elements for about two weeks. I didn't cover it with a tarp or anything. We had quite a few rainstorms then. I didn't think much about it until now. I am not sure I ever started the ATV up after I got the seat back.

Maybe being exposed to the rain (my stupidity in not covering it) did either the solenoid or starter in?

Quote:
Originally Posted by latebird View Post
You have either; A) (and most likely) a bad battery or B) a bad starter motor

Normally a good battery will not drop below about 10.5 volts when cranking the engine, but if the starter is bad, it could have an excessive current draw which will cause the battery to drop very low - typically about 8 volts

Use some jumper cables and a car battery - connect the positive to the positive battery cable which you disconnected from to on board battery and connect the negative to the NEG side of the battery - if it starts normally, you have a bad battery - if it's still slow or draggy, connect the ground jumper to a known good frame ground and try again, if still slow or draggy, connect the positive battery jumper directly to the starter motor lead - if it starts normally you may have a bad solenoid - if it's still slow, replace the starter motor

2008 X2 700, 2002 Sportsman 500
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 11:14 AM
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It highly unlikely rain would have affected the starter motor and only a remote possibility that it might have affected the solenoid - on the other hand, batteries have a high failure rate

Just curious about the new battery - was it dry and had to be filled with acid the day you got it? When filled, what kind of charger was it put on for the activation charge (rate of charge and what amount of taper until the charger shut off)? A battery that has any amount of sulfation is damaged. Desulfation requires a special charger and the expected useful life of a sulfated battery is shorter than a battery that has been kept charged and not allowed the sulfation process to occur.

A std lead acid battery needs to be charged every 30 days - an AGM battery may go 90 days before recharging is mandated.

Conventional Batteries
Check voltage a minimum of once per month (or more frequently if stored at higher temperatures as high temperatures cause higher self-discharge rates)
Check electrolyte level (refill with ONLY distilled water only when the battery is fully charged)
Make sure the exhaust tube is free of kinks and clogs
Replace caps firmly (finger-tight only)
Recharge battery if voltage is below 12.48V

AGM Batteries
Check voltage every 3 months (or more frequently if stored at higher temperatures as high temperatures cause higher self-discharge rates)
Keep top of battery clean
Recharge battery if voltage is below 12.4V
Once activated, the battery is permanently sealed and must never be opened. There is no need to add water to AGM batteries. Adding water to AGM batteries will result in irreparable damage to the battery

2006 Trailboss 330
2002 Sportsman 90
2005 TRX400EX (FOR SALE)
2003 LT-Z400 (needs engine work & is for sale)
2004 CRF250X
1971 Triumph 650 Bonneville (has 5 original miles)
1972 Triumph 650 Bonneville (undergoing restoration)
1979 Honda CBX (6 cylinder)
1970 Kawasaki G3SS 90cc Bushmaster
1976 Suzuki RE5 Rotary (not running & FOR SALE)
1981 Kawasaki KZ305-A
1981 Suzuki GS450T (undergoing repair & will be for sale when done)
1982 Kawasaki KZ750-H (FOR SALE)
1989 Honda VT1100C
2007 Vectrix VCTX Electric Scooter
1965 Montgomery Ward 3 1/2 HP Tecumseh Mini Bike
1970 Triumph T25 250cc Trailblazer
1968 Triumph 250cc Flat Tracker

Shop Owner and Mechanic with over 50 years experience
latebird is online now  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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My brother is an electrical engineer and built a simple electrical car that used car batteries. He wanted to do it on the cheap so he requested people give him old dead useless batteries. Some of the ones he received were truly dead, zero voltage or close to it, but some he brought back to life using the BatteryMINDer that is pictured below. On his advice, I bought one too, though they are expensive, the model pictured was $160. I've used them to restore RV batteries, car batteries, ATV batteries and Lawnmower batteries.

Also pictured is the ATV battery from the Polaris. After 16 hours on the desulphation cycle it read 13.46 volts.

I've found a car battery that is good so I look forward to seeing what the problem is with the ATV. Again, thanks for all your help.



Quote:
Originally Posted by latebird View Post

Just curious about the new battery - was it dry and had to be filled with acid the day you got it? When filled, what kind of charger was it put on for the activation charge (rate of charge and what amount of taper until the charger shut off)? A battery that has any amount of sulfation is damaged. Desulfation requires a special charger and the expected useful life of a sulfated battery is shorter than a battery that has been kept charged and not allowed the sulfation process to occur.

2008 X2 700, 2002 Sportsman 500
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