16 Sportsman 450 Stalling - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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16 Sportsman 450 Stalling

Please help dealer cant seem to duplicate problem and I cant get it fixed.

I use my 2016 Polaris sportsman 450 for mowing and tow behind an independent mower which simply hitches to atv no battery hook up or anything.

In doing so I have to go slow I would guess around 3mph. I believe the atv idels at 1200-1250 and when pulling the mower I am around 2500-3000k rpm on flat ground as its a big wide open field. my issue is after about 45 mins of pulling this mower the atv will begin to stall and I must restart twice everytime to get it back on and it keeps happening more and more as I go on. So after 45 mins it will stall every 5 mins then 4 mins then 3 and so on till you can hardly ride any longer.

Now this mower is only 150lbs wet. Also this atv has no issues other then when I am going slow pulling my mower. No check engine lights or codes flash when stalling. Please help. Just bought the thing and still under warranty for another few weeks so need to resolve asap or simply demand my money back as mowing is the main reason I purchased.

Thanks
Jason
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 08:32 AM
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I'm going to presume either the battery is losing charge or the something (ECU or rec/reg) is overheating.

Not all temporary malfunctions will generate codes. Good luck on getting your money back. I think the manufacturer designed it for recreation, not work. Maybe trade it in for a UTV which is more designed for work and less for recreation.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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for sure not the battery dropping volts that has been checked as well as fuel pressure. and by no means am I working this atv this mower is 150lbs wet and I am pulling it on flat ground there is no work involved as I could do it by hand if I had to. any other suggestions?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:25 AM
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for sure not the battery dropping volts that has been checked as well as fuel pressure. and by no means am I working this atv this mower is 150lbs wet and I am pulling it on flat ground there is no work involved as I could do it by hand if I had to. any other suggestions?
Running that slow for extended periods of time IS work no matter if pulling weight or not. There is very little air flow to remove heat from under the tank and under the plastics and the cooling fan blows even more heat under there when its on. I'd about bet the fuel is getting so hot its boiling in the tank. It may also be overheating the pump which will kill it very shortly too. Either way the pump will loose prime and/or stop pumping intermittently. It can't pump bubbles! lol And, as you described, it'll keep getting worse as it gets hotter until you let it cool a while or pour cool fuel in the tank.
Next time it does that remove the fuel cap VERY CAREFULLY as it can erupt like a volcano if its much full and look down in the tank. You may need a flashlight. You'll probably see the fuel boiling like a tea kettle.
If you're going to WORK your machine that way, you'll probably have to address fuel tank and fuel line excessive heat issues.
1) Using higher octane non-alcohol fuel will help.
2) Pull the tank off and cover the entire bottom with heat shield matting. Also wrap the fuel line going to the throttle body.
3) Looks like that machine already has extensive heat shields on the header and pipe just for that very reason. But you might want to remove them to also wrap the exhaust pipe with header wrap and then reinstall the shields.
All these things won't totally stop the excess heat buildup caused by running so slow over an extended time but it will help alleviate the resulting problems you're having.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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that makes a lot more sense as the tank area does appear to be very hot. I have removed the cap to see if it was stalling due to vapor lock but I didn't see any bubbling at that time or very high pressure when cap was removed.

so you suggest to run a higher octane best I can do at the pump here is 93 which I run 87 now. any other suggestions other then removing tank and heat wrapping as much as I can? also this is early spring so not even heat of summer yet. if this is not a good machine for this type of work I need to trade it on another asap.
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:48 PM
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Do as polman suggests - if the fuel is boiling you gotta find a way to cool the fuel tank - try removing the side covers (they trap heat) - maybe install an accessory fan just to move air out from under the bodywork

Most important - non-ethanol fuel - it has a higher boiling point than ethanol blended fuels

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Last edited by latebird; 05-15-2019 at 01:51 PM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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I have a few pumps near me which have non ethanol gas does it matter the octane? I currently run 87 with 10%. I will remove that gas today and fill up with 87 ethanol free gas and give it a try. or theres another station near me which has 90+ ethanol free gas should I go for the higher octane or wont that matter?

and good suggestions on the fan and heat blockers. im sort of afraid of wrapping the header as I do some wet riding but will take it all apart and see what more I can do to stop heat transfer.

thanks again
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:59 AM
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I have a few pumps near me which have non ethanol gas does it matter the octane? I currently run 87 with 10%. I will remove that gas today and fill up with 87 ethanol free gas and give it a try. or theres another station near me which has 90+ ethanol free gas should I go for the higher octane or wont that matter?

and good suggestions on the fan and heat blockers. im sort of afraid of wrapping the header as I do some wet riding but will take it all apart and see what more I can do to stop heat transfer.

thanks again
I run 87 ethanol free all the time, runs great.
For the heat, I had my exhaust ceramic coated at Jet-Hot, made a big difference.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 06:24 AM
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Polaris recommends 87 octane ethanol free - 89 octane if using ethanol blended fuel

My Honda race bike calls for 93 or higher - I use VP Racing SEF (Small Engine Fuel) 94 octane - I have tried other octanes as high as 100 - what I found out (through experimentation) is my race bike started to lose power with fuel above 95 octane and at 100 octane the power loss was intolerable. Not only did the engine lose power, the exhaust ran exceedingly hot - the exhaust was so hot, the muffler at the rear of the bike melted (deformed) the plastic shroud shielding it.

Octane is a measurement - it measures (among other things) how fast a fuel burns. The higher the octane; the slower the burn rate. High octane fuels were intended for long stroke, high compression engines that were not particularly high revving. Higher octane fuels resist igniting due to compression. Ideally, the mixture ignites and the flame (pressure wave) pushes the piston to the end of the stroke and then extinguishes. With low octane fuels, the mixture ignites, burns rapidly and the flame goes out before the piston reaches the end of its stroke - if it burns too quickly, the pressure wave strikes the top of the piston (like a hammer hitting an anvil) and an audible click (referred to as ping) is heard. Continued operation with a low octane fuel (even if the ping is not noticeable) will damage the engine sometimes causing a broken piston. Too high of an octane results in the mixture burning

My CRF is a high 12.5:1 compression ratio engine, but has a short stroke. The engine readily revs to about 12,000 RPM and is most efficient between about 5000 to 8000 RPM. When I ran 100 octane fuel, the flame had not extinguished at the bottom of the stroke and the piston was pushing still burning fuel into the exhaust. Thus, a loss of power and the burning fuel heated my exhaust excessively.

If you think octane is a measurement of power - get some Turbo-Blue (typically 110 octane airplane gas), put it in your lawn mower and then go mow the grass. Depending on the brand of mower, it may not even start on Turbo-Blue, but if it does, and if it accelerates to the proper engine speed for mowing, it probably will not have enough power to mow and you will probably see the muffler get red hot and may even notice a flame coming out of the muffler. Dump it and put in 87 to 91 octane non-ethanol gas and it will return to normal. With a little experimentation, you may find the engine runs better and uses less fuel depending on the brand and quality of fuel.

Years ago I was addicted to Standard Oil premium for my 65 Mustang. Standard became Amoco and Amoco became British Petroleum. I was loyal through all the name changes, but recently noticed a decline in fuel economy. Casey's General Store built a new facility in our town and they had one pump with 91 octane non-ethanol fuel. I always tried to seek out non-ethanol fuel, but it was inconvenient to drive 20 miles each time I needed fuel. So I used ethanol fuel 2 octane points higher than the vehicle manufacturer recommended when I had to and would fill with non-ethanol whenever I was in a neighborhood that had a non-ethanol outlet. I not only filled my vehicle, I would fill all the gas cans I own to tide me over until my next trip.

Nuff said - run minimum 87, but 89, 91 or 93 octane pure gas is allowable, 89 or higher 10% ethanol, 95 or higher 15% ethanol and nothing with more than 15% ethanol unless the vehicle is specifically designed to use +15% or greater concentrations of ethanol. To use fuel above 15% ethanol, the fuel tank must be steel or special plastic, the petcock and fuel pump must be constructed without rubber parts and the carburetor or fuel injectors have to be specially constructed to provide an acceptable life span before requiring routine replacement.

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