Stator working, no measurable draw, co Stanton dead batteries - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Stator working, no measurable draw, co Stanton dead batteries

HISTORY
Sorry if this ends up a bit long. Just trying to describe the history of my bike.

2013 Sportsman 500. Only aftermarket electrical accessory is a venom winch was installed immediately after purchasing. The factory battery worked fine from 2013 to 2017. When it quit working last year I attributed it to the batteries age and reached it. I bought an autolight AGM battery it worked okay throughout the summer of 2017 but by spring 2018 it had also given up the ghost. I kept the quad on a battery tender over that winter. After repeated charging it would read 11.5V but would rise to about 14.3V while the quad was running which made me believe the stator was working properly.

Thinking that the Autolight AGM battery was crap I purchased a Yuasa from Summit last spring. It too worked fine over the summer of 2018. This spring I've had the same problems I had with the AGM battery. Is the quad sits more than a day or two without being ran the battery will die.

CURRENT DAY.
I put my charger on the battery overnight. Tested the voltage today and it was 12.5V. I then started the quad and the voltage measured 14.3V and held consistant.

Next I pulled the negative terminal off the battery and checked for parasitic current draw. I get nothing measurable on the 200mA setting which is as low as mine goes.

I then pulled the reg/rec from the quad to bench test. I performed a diode test with the following results:
Forward bias, wire 1, 0.389v
Forward bias, wire 2, 0.390v
Forward bias, wire 3, 0.389v
Reverse bias, wire 1, OL
Reverse bias, wire 2, OL
Reverse bias, wire 3, 1.350v for a split second then OL.

The split second reading across the third wire is consistent every time. I've never seen this happen on a diode test. It's the only wire it happens on.

Does this indicate a faulty Regulator?

I'm kind of at wits end. With no parasitic draws obvious I'm not sure where to go next other than replace the red. But considering the 3 forward readings were all consistent it make me wonder.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 07:16 AM
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I presume you are measuring ohms of resistance through the diode and not avalanche voltage?

The momentary reading on one diode may have to do with the capacitor(s) in the voltage regulator section of the unit.

I suggest you charge the battery and leave it disconnected from the vehicle for a couple of days and recheck it.

When you reference a 'battery tender', what brand of 'tender' are you using and what's the rated amp outputs of the various stages of charge?

Shop Owner and Mechanic with over 50 years experience
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latebird View Post
I presume you are measuring ohms of resistance through the diode and not avalanche voltage?

The momentary reading on one diode may have to do with the capacitor(s) in the voltage regulator section of the unit.

I suggest you charge the battery and leave it disconnected from the vehicle for a couple of days and recheck it.

When you reference a 'battery tender', what brand of 'tender' are you using and what's the rated amp outputs of the various stages of charge?
I'm measuring voltage drop with the diode setting on my multimeter. At least that is what I assumed I'm measuring when I use the diode setting.

I'm not using a battery tender brand. I'm using a well regarded Schumacher SP1297 shown below. It's an analyzer, charger, and maintainer.

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SP...macher+&sr=8-4
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 07:52 AM
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The battery maintainer you're using looks to be a good one. Some of these type maintainers put the battery under constant charge which results in an overcharged battery which as we know is not what we want. I would look for less finite measurements. I would test charging (voltage) at the battery terminals but this time @3,000rpm. What do you have then???? If that doesn't exceed 14.5vdc I would start testing the stator.

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Polaris rear rack extender
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ITP T-7 beadlock 14" w/OMF inner rim guards
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ODI rogue 130mm grips
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added 7 zerks
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 07:56 AM
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Also your forward bias #'s look good. BUT #3 with the split second reading the OL may be a sign of the problem. Electronics can be so damn chaotic at times!!!!

2011 Sportsman® 800 EFI
GURU front brush guard
GURU rear brush guard
Polaris front lock n ride cargo box
Polaris rear rack extender
Warn RT 3.0 winch w/amsteel synthetic line
Viper aluminum haus fairlead
Polaris front spring adjusters
Ricochet a-arm guards
Ricochet full frame skid plate
ITP T-7 beadlock 14" w/OMF inner rim guards
Maxxis big horn 2.0 26x9 front
Maxxis big horn 2.0 26x11 rear
QSC clutch kit
EPI HD springs front n rear
ODI rogue 130mm grips
Ultraseal commercial grade tire sealant (front)
Highlifter tire sealant (rear)
CTEK 3300 battery maintainer
added 7 zerks
beefed up wiring harness
OGIO rear bag
ROTOPAX 1gal. + 2gal. gasoline can
Jccapri bushing kit
Kolpin Over Fenders
Rigid Industries E-Series 10" flood
Walker Evans struts
NGK Iridium's (2,500 miles on Champion's and they looked great!)
Odyssey Extreme battery PC545

2018 Sportsman® 570-T
2019 Aluma® A8818
2020 Outlander® 1000R XXC (on order, ETA mid-Sept)
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. I borrowed a multimeter from my BIL to confirm the weird split second reading I was getting. I thought maybe it could be a problem with my own multimeter. The weird spike reading occurred with his meter as well. I removed the battery completely from the ATV and have charge it overnight. It only charged to 12.08V. I believe the Yuasa is trashed. I hate to keep buying batteries until I can figure out what's going on.

I feel like it's not the stator. As mentioned, while running the voltage will hold well over 14v.

I could install a battery disconnect but I feel like that's just a band aid.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 10:41 AM
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What or who's a BIL?

2011 Sportsman® 800 EFI
GURU front brush guard
GURU rear brush guard
Polaris front lock n ride cargo box
Polaris rear rack extender
Warn RT 3.0 winch w/amsteel synthetic line
Viper aluminum haus fairlead
Polaris front spring adjusters
Ricochet a-arm guards
Ricochet full frame skid plate
ITP T-7 beadlock 14" w/OMF inner rim guards
Maxxis big horn 2.0 26x9 front
Maxxis big horn 2.0 26x11 rear
QSC clutch kit
EPI HD springs front n rear
ODI rogue 130mm grips
Ultraseal commercial grade tire sealant (front)
Highlifter tire sealant (rear)
CTEK 3300 battery maintainer
added 7 zerks
beefed up wiring harness
OGIO rear bag
ROTOPAX 1gal. + 2gal. gasoline can
Jccapri bushing kit
Kolpin Over Fenders
Rigid Industries E-Series 10" flood
Walker Evans struts
NGK Iridium's (2,500 miles on Champion's and they looked great!)
Odyssey Extreme battery PC545

2018 Sportsman® 570-T
2019 Aluma® A8818
2020 Outlander® 1000R XXC (on order, ETA mid-Sept)
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bp405 View Post
What or who's a BIL?
Lol. Brother-in-law
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 11:45 AM
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The charger you gave a link to is a 3 amp - the maximum charge rate for the battery you should have (Yuasa YTX14AH-BS 1.26Ah) is 1.2 amps for 5-10 hours

The charger you should use is the SP1295 (1 amp) - the charger is damaging the battery - never charge above 10% of the amp hour rating of the battery for maximum service life.

You might get by with the charger you have if you only turn it on for about 15 minutes at a time.

I charge my batteries with a 750 milliamp to 1.25 amp Battery Tender brand of smart charger - there is nothing wrong with the Schumacher brand - they have an excellent product - you just need to match it with the battery amp hour rating - you can charge at less than 10% of the battery rating, it just takes longer.

I believe your rec/reg is fine. I have several meters. The one I use most frequently has an input voltage of 1.5 volts. When I select ' Diode check', it automatically selects the 200 ohm scale and reads the resistance of the diode. Of course your meter may be different.

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Last edited by latebird; 07-06-2019 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Punctuation
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latebird View Post
The charger you gave a link to is a 3 amp - the maximum charge rate for the battery you should have (Yuasa YTX14AH-BS 1.26Ah) is 1.2 amps for 5-10 hours

The charger you should use is the SP1295 (1 amp) - the charger is damaging the battery - never charge above 10% of the amp hour rating of the battery for maximum service life.

You might get by with the charger you have if you only turn it on for about 15 minutes at a time.

I charge my batteries with a 750 milliamp to 1.25 amp Battery Tender brand of smart charger - there is nothing wrong with the Schumacher brand - they have an excellent product - you just need to match it with the battery amp hour rating - you can charge at less than 10% of the battery rating, it just takes longer.

I believe your rec/reg is fine. I have several meters. The one I use most frequently has an input voltage of 1.5 volts. When I select ' Diode check', it automatically selects the 200 ohm scale and reads the resistance of the diode. Of course your meter may be different.
Never would've thought that the Schumacher charger would damage the battery. Its sold as a motorcycle battery charger maintainer .
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