Really almost impossible to test. There are a couple things you can look at through the dealer specific software called "digital wrench"...which is not something you would have access too.
About the only thing you can do is take a CDI that you is the same one, and that you know is working fine, and plug it into your machine to see if the problem goes away. But you also run the chance of flying that CDI depending on the problem.
Also, not common the CDI is what goes bad. Usually it's a dozen other things that fault before the CDI.
I've tested and swaped every other electrical component and they test good well within spec or the parts i have swaped didn't fix the sputter. Cam is perfect. and the CDI is the last component I cannot find to swap or know how to test. Ever hear of a carb being worn out and not visible? Machine only has 978 miles.
Coil test good 2ndary 6152 ohm book calls for 6300 and .4ohm primary
regulator/rectifier swapped with one that is known good
carb rebuild spotless
stator tests good, resistance and output
ETC unplugged
reverse override unplugged
starter solenoid test good
cam is mint, measures on the high end of specs and has even measurements
fuel system all new parts, petcock-lines-filter-pump
plug, boot & wire good
flywheel pulled and key is good not sheared
All new fluids except gearboxes
wire harness pulled grounds cleaned all good connections
Battery new, staying charged, 13.9vdc off and 14.5vdc while running
hair is all on the floor from being pulled out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:aargh4:
Well lets talk about that frying thing. What could cause a CDI to fry? I was thinking the voltage reg/rec putting out too much juice, but I've tested it and its spot on for specs on the output side of it. The only thing I can do is test it at high rpm as the machine sputters. The other one would run fine if I removed the air filter, this does not.
on this one its just as you crack the throttle, maybe 1/16th or 1/8th throttle. I also seen the aftermarket CDI box for like 55--60 bucks. Do you remember what supplier or brand you used.
I'm a little concerned using a non-top brand companies CDI box. Anytime you mess with timing it can be dangerous. If I knew what the map did, it would help. By the way it sounds they took timing out of it in the low rpm to make it easier to start, and added (who knows whether its 2 degrees or more) then up top they raised the rpm limit by 1000 rpm. I don't wanna be floating valves, but I doubt I'll ever run it up there.
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