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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bp405 View Post
See that's where I think the problem lies. The tolerences of the new cage and/or rollers is to tight. 1mm isn't enough you should be in the neighborhood of 4-6mm of slack before the rollers begin to engage.
When I was referring to the 1mm, its when I raised the cage out of the ring gear that amount is when I realized I could spin the output shaft without there being drag against the hubs, which in turn, the hubs didnt turn when spinning the output shaft. My bad for not explaining better
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 03:31 PM
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Also the fact the fluid gets metallic makes me wonder about what type of contact the metal parts are making in there.

2011 Sportsman® 800 EFI
GURU front brush guard
GURU rear brush guard
Polaris front lock n ride cargo box
Polaris rear rack extender
Warn RT 3.0 winch w/amsteel synthetic line
Viper aluminum haus fairlead
Polaris front spring adjusters
Ricochet a-arm guards
Ricochet full frame skid plate
ITP T-7 beadlock 14" w/OMF inner rim guards
Maxxis big horn 2.0 26x9 front
Maxxis big horn 2.0 26x11 rear
QSC clutch kit
EPI HD springs front n rear
ODI rogue 130mm grips
Ultraseal commercial grade tire sealant (front)
Highlifter tire sealant (rear)
CTEK 3300 battery maintainer
added 7 zerks
beefed up wiring harness
OGIO rear bag
ROTOPAX 1gal. + 2gal. gasoline can
Jccapri bushing kit
Kolpin Over Fenders
Rigid Industries E-Series 10" flood
Walker Evans struts
NGK Iridium's (2,500 miles on Champion's and they looked great!)
Odyssey Extreme battery PC545

2018 Sportsman® 570-T
2019 Aluma® A8818
2020 Outlander® 1000R XXC (on order, ETA mid-Sept)
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bp405 View Post
Also the fact the fluid gets metallic makes me wonder about what type of contact the metal parts are making in there.
True. The ring gear looks decent with no wear. I cleaned all the parts with brake cleaner the first time. Almost seems like its friction residue from the clutch packs. Im at a stand still at the moment until the OEM cage gets delivered on thursday and go from there. I will give it another thorough cleaning once I put everything back together.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 04:00 PM
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I'm very interested to see what the OEM cage does.

2011 Sportsman® 800 EFI
GURU front brush guard
GURU rear brush guard
Polaris front lock n ride cargo box
Polaris rear rack extender
Warn RT 3.0 winch w/amsteel synthetic line
Viper aluminum haus fairlead
Polaris front spring adjusters
Ricochet a-arm guards
Ricochet full frame skid plate
ITP T-7 beadlock 14" w/OMF inner rim guards
Maxxis big horn 2.0 26x9 front
Maxxis big horn 2.0 26x11 rear
QSC clutch kit
EPI HD springs front n rear
ODI rogue 130mm grips
Ultraseal commercial grade tire sealant (front)
Highlifter tire sealant (rear)
CTEK 3300 battery maintainer
added 7 zerks
beefed up wiring harness
OGIO rear bag
ROTOPAX 1gal. + 2gal. gasoline can
Jccapri bushing kit
Kolpin Over Fenders
Rigid Industries E-Series 10" flood
Walker Evans struts
NGK Iridium's (2,500 miles on Champion's and they looked great!)
Odyssey Extreme battery PC545

2018 Sportsman® 570-T
2019 Aluma® A8818
2020 Outlander® 1000R XXC (on order, ETA mid-Sept)
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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I'm very interested to see what the OEM cage does.
Yeah, you and me both! Also ordered a new armature. There teuley is nothing left outside these new parts that can cause the issue. The hubs fit fine inside eachother, minimal axle play in the hub splines. The inside of the ring gear where the rollers ride against during 4x4 are smooth and no knicks, smooth all over, and for a machine that has 650 miles I cant imagine the diff internals are that far gone. We shall see, ill keep everyone posted! Just curious, when there is talk about the aluminum cage upgrade, where does everyone go to purchase them? Perhaps the one on Amazon from East Lake axle is too finicky with my setup...
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jroptop View Post
Its a 2010 850xp with eps and is the earlier build in Feb 2010 that had the front diff without the tortion spring, which came out in March 2010. The resevoir for the ADC is next to the foot brake resevoir under the headlight pod. Yes it does have a bleeder screw on each side of the axle that need to be bled for the ADC to work correctly. To my understanding, the ADC is only functional when switch is on ADC and decending down a steep hill, off the throttle, it supplies 4 wheel braking via the function of the clutch packs in the output hubs

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Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
OP, I don't think you ever said exactly what model machine you have. Some of those early model ADC diffs are fussy. Does yours have the separate fluid reservoir for the ADC that requires bleeding when changed?
The fluid getting that black that fast is the reason I asked. Those early model ADC diffs are EXTREMELY finicky. EVERYTHING must be just right for them to function correctly and not have problems. The oil getting dirty that fast and you saying the outputs aren't turning free tells me the clutch packs are dragging constantly. If the ADC pump, cam, ADC coil and armature (10 and 14 in the neck) etc. has a problem then the whole gearcase has a problem. There is also a set screw (17), thrust button (18) and thrust button DC (19) that controls the tension on the clutch packs/ring gear...have you or someone before you moved the set screw? If so, it probably needs reset. In fact, I think anytime you change something inside one of those older ADC diffs that will make a difference in clearances it needs to be reset. (ie. cage, clutch packs, bearings etc.)
Hopefully, its just the aftermarket aluminum cage being dimensionally incorrect causing the issue. I do know the ADC fluid on those units has to be changed religiously to keep them working correctly and that they must be bled when changed for it to be right. It is my understanding too that the clutch packs have wear limits and must be serviced/replaced...Thank God the newer ones are less troublesome to maintain!
I have seen where some guys eliminate the ADC on those older units to make them more reliable but I'm not sure what all is involved in doing that.
It may be worthwhile to see if you can find a service manual for the fine details??
Good luck and keep us updated.

Last edited by polman500; 01-28-2019 at 04:41 PM.
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 04:38 PM
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oopps! I forgot to add the drawing.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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I thought the set screw for the thrust button was to set the backlash on the ring gear? There is a video on youtube how to eliminate the adc, basically removing a few of the internals in the pump, armature, spring ,cam etc...ill use that as a last resort, or try to find a used front diff from a later model






Quote:
Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jroptop View Post
Its a 2010 850xp with eps and is the earlier build in Feb 2010 that had the front diff without the tortion spring, which came out in March 2010. The resevoir for the ADC is next to the foot brake resevoir under the headlight pod. Yes it does have a bleeder screw on each side of the axle that need to be bled for the ADC to work correctly. To my understanding, the ADC is only functional when switch is on ADC and decending down a steep hill, off the throttle, it supplies 4 wheel braking via the function of the clutch packs in the output hubs

Quote:
Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
OP, I don't think you ever said exactly what model machine you have. Some of those early model ADC diffs are fussy. Does yours have the separate fluid reservoir for the ADC that requires bleeding when changed?
The fluid getting that black that fast is the reason I asked. Those early model ADC diffs are EXTREMELY finicky. EVERYTHING must be just right for them to function correctly and not have problems. The oil getting dirty that fast and you saying the outputs aren't turning free tells me the clutch packs are dragging constantly. If the ADC pump, cam, ADC coil and armature (10 and 14 in the neck) etc. has a problem then the whole gearcase has a problem. There is also a set screw (17), thrust button (18) and thrust button DC (19) that controls the tension on the clutch packs...have you or someone before you moved the set screw? If so, it probably needs reset. In fact, I think anytime you change something inside one of those older ADC diffs that will make a difference in clearances it needs to be reset. (ie. cage, clutch packs, bearings etc.)
Hopefully, its just the aftermarket aluminum cage being dimensionally incorrect causing the issue. I do know the ADC fluid on those units has to be changed religiously to keep them working correctly and that they must be bled when changed for it to be right. It is my understanding too that the clutch packs have wear limits and must be serviced/replaced...Thank God the newer ones are less troublesome to maintain!
I have seen where some guys eliminate the ADC on those older units to make them more reliable but I'm not sure what all is involved in doing that.
It may be worthwhile to see if you can find a service manual for the fine details??
Good luck and keep us updated.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 05:28 PM
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Yeah, I was just throwing that out there about the ADC elimination deal. I'd be like you and want it to work as designed. I've just seen several guys pulling their hair out over those early ADC units. I really wanted ADC when I purchased a new machine because of some of the terrain I ride. The problems they were having with the early models made me hold off buying for almost 5 years till they got some of the bugs worked out with that and some other issues.
I really hope the OEM cage and armature does the trick for you.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
Yeah, I was just throwing that out there about the ADC elimination deal. I'd be like you and want it to work as designed. I've just seen several guys pulling their hair out over those early ADC units. I really wanted ADC when I purchased a new machine because of some of the terrain I ride. The problems they were having with the early models made me hold off buying for almost 5 years till they got some of the bugs worked out with that and some other issues.
I really hope the OEM cage and armature does the trick for you.
I figured Id start off with the basics and the first thing I changed in the diff, im hoping it is the cage and armature also!! I hate "cobbing" things just to make it work haha!
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