Engine oil drain plug leak (Leaking again) - Polaris ATV Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Engine oil drain plug leak (Leaking again)

Hello everyone.
I posted on here a little while back about stripping out my engine oil drain plug (2014 Sportsman 850 XP EPS) and I went to put in a heli-coil... Only that I tapped it slightly crooked. So I talked to one of you and it was said to use a nylon washer and maybe pvc sealer tape. I did that. First attempt it didn't work. So I added a little more tape to it and it finally sealed the oil. For a few months it seemed fine, no leaks or drips.
I checked today before riding and to my disgust oil was there, a slow seep. Oil level came up fine but still a leak and I don't like it.

So with that, does anyone know what I can do? It is a crooked heli-coil. My first time using one so user error for sure. I have a few ideas. 1= Use a rubber washer (thick). 2= use jb weld and seal it permanently. 3= Weld it shut. (and use a oil pump).

This is definitely not a fun thing to know while riding, it's not secure. If anyone has an idea, I would really appreciate any help. Thank you.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 07:15 AM
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Skippy, the oil plug is supposed to have an o-ring on it to seal. If the Helicoil is such that it still won't seal and actually needs removed there is a tool for doing so or you can use a triangle file or something similar to drive into it to turn it out. Here's a couple links.

Page 31 shows the tool and how to use it.
http://www.noblefix.com/PDF/Helicoil...-Catalogue.pdf

Or here's a video of how to do it manually with pliers. You just drive something under the top coil to get it bulged out so you can get hold of it and then twist out with needle nose pliers.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...1&action=click
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
Skippy, the oil plug is supposed to have an o-ring on it to seal. If the Helicoil is such that it still won't seal and actually needs removed there is a tool for doing so or you can use a triangle file or something similar to drive into it to turn it out. Here's a couple links.

Page 31 shows the tool and how to use it.
http://www.noblefix.com/PDF/Helicoil...-Catalogue.pdf

Or here's a video of how to do it manually with pliers. You just drive something under the top coil to get it bulged out so you can get hold of it and then twist out with needle nose pliers.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...1&action=click
Thank you for the reply!
Unfortunately the heli-coil is held in by red lock tight. So I'm not sure if it will come out at this point. Is it possible to simply plug the hole permanently? I rather plug it with either jb weld or actually weld it so that I know it's secure.
Although I am not sure how or if aluminum can be welded together. The oil pump method appeals to me the most.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy850 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
Skippy, the oil plug is supposed to have an o-ring on it to seal. If the Helicoil is such that it still won't seal and actually needs removed there is a tool for doing so or you can use a triangle file or something similar to drive into it to turn it out. Here's a couple links.

Page 31 shows the tool and how to use it.
http://www.noblefix.com/PDF/Helicoil...-Catalogue.pdf

Or here's a video of how to do it manually with pliers. You just drive something under the top coil to get it bulged out so you can get hold of it and then twist out with needle nose pliers.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...1&action=click
Thank you for the reply!
Unfortunately the heli-coil is held in by red lock tight. So I'm not sure if it will come out at this point. Is it possible to simply plug the hole permanently? I rather plug it with either jb weld or actually weld it so that I know it's secure.
Although I am not sure how or if aluminum can be welded together. The oil pump method appeals to me the most.
A little heat from a propane torch will soften the Loctite to facilitate removal. If I were working on it, I'd lay the machine on it's side so I could get to it and fix it properly. You can seal the hole permanently and pump the oil out but that will eventually lead to a build up gunk in the bottom of the crankcase since you'll no longer be able to flush it out. That probably wouldn't really be that big a deal but I'd rather have it fixed right if it were mine. That'll also greatly diminish any resale or trade-in value if you do it that way.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 04:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy850 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by polman500 View Post
Skippy, the oil plug is supposed to have an o-ring on it to seal. If the Helicoil is such that it still won't seal and actually needs removed there is a tool for doing so or you can use a triangle file or something similar to drive into it to turn it out. Here's a couple links.

Page 31 shows the tool and how to use it.
http://www.noblefix.com/PDF/Helicoil...-Catalogue.pdf

Or here's a video of how to do it manually with pliers. You just drive something under the top coil to get it bulged out so you can get hold of it and then twist out with needle nose pliers.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...1&action=click
Thank you for the reply!
Unfortunately the heli-coil is held in by red lock tight. So I'm not sure if it will come out at this point. Is it possible to simply plug the hole permanently? I rather plug it with either jb weld or actually weld it so that I know it's secure.
Although I am not sure how or if aluminum can be welded together. The oil pump method appeals to me the most.
A little heat from a propane torch will soften the Loctite to facilitate removal. If I were working on it, I'd lay the machine on it's side so I could get to it and fix it properly. You can seal the hole permanently and pump the oil out but that will eventually lead to a build up gunk in the bottom of the crankcase since you'll no longer be able to flush it out. That probably wouldn't really be that big a deal but I'd rather have it fixed right if it were mine. That'll also greatly diminish any resale or trade-in value if you do it that way.
Very good point. I asked a friend of mine about heating it up and he said it's risky since it's made out of aluminum. It'd be easy to accidentally heat it up too far considering that lock tite can hold up to a high melting point.
Considering the gunk on the bottom, I'll have to do look it up. A lot of guys just plug it and use a pump. I will not trade it in most cases since I don't need a new atv but I see what you mean. I'm just trying to think of the easiest way to stop it from leaking without more hassle.

Ok, so. 1. I could remove it and put in a new one making sure it is straight. 2. See if a rubber seal works. 3. Plug it permanently.

I'll look into the rubber seal but I'm not even sure if that would work.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 08:31 AM
mvn
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As posted here on another thread regarding this topic, I simply retapped the metric hole to 1/2"-20 then used a corresponding automotive drain plug with a nylon washer. I also took the additional step of using RTV on the plug and use an oil pump to do my regular oil changes. Because I change it out frequently, it comes out clean. I can still remove the plug if I have to (to see if there is any sludge build-up) but so far, nothing.

Mark

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvn View Post
As posted here on another thread regarding this topic, I simply retapped the metric hole to 1/2"-20 then used a corresponding automotive drain plug with a nylon washer. I also took the additional step of using RTV on the plug and use an oil pump to do my regular oil changes. Because I change it out frequently, it comes out clean. I can still remove the plug if I have to (to see if there is any sludge build-up) but so far, nothing.
Mark
Seems like something I will do.
Does that automotive plug you bought have a built in rubber seal? I know that GM plugs come like that on some and it may work for my situation. I don't want to retap it, so I rather just work with what I have (a crooked heli-coil).

Also, how often do you change your oil?
I change mine every 6 months only because I hardly ride. Maybe 25-40 hours every 6 months.. (sadly, because of college lol). So if I plug it, I wonder if my oil change interval is complyent with using a oil pump (?).
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