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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having issues with my 05 Polaris trail boss 330. Installed a new carb. Couldn't get it to start until you wiggled the pet cock, then the pet cock would start leaking gas and it would fire right up. Changed out pet cock, and now it won't start. SMH
 

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There is 3 lines on the petcock - main tank, reserve and the feed to the fuel pump - you may have lost he prime on the pump - pull the line that goes to the fuel pump off the petcock - gas should flow out of the petcock in both the main and reserve position - if fuel only flows out in one position, that is reserve - if the petcock is in the reserve position then there's nothing wrong - if fuel flows out in the main position, but not in the reserve position, then the supply lines are on the wrong spigots - when you have it right, fill the tank to the point fuel flows out in the main position - now, turn the petcock to the reserve position, put the enrichener (choke) on full, try starting using no throttle - if lucky it will start and the fuel pump is primed - if no start, remove the fuel line from the carb or fuel pump (whichever is easier to get to), crank the engine and observe if fuel is pumping out of the pump - if it is, put the line back on and use starting fluid to try to start the engine - if still no start, get a new spark plug and start troubleshooting the fuel and ignition system - don't forget to check the compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is 3 lines on the petcock - main tank, reserve and the feed to the fuel pump - you may have lost he prime on the pump - pull the line that goes to the fuel pump off the petcock - gas should flow out of the petcock in both the main and reserve position - if fuel only flows out in one position, that is reserve - if the petcock is in the reserve position then there's nothing wrong - if fuel flows out in the main position, but not in the reserve position, then the supply lines are on the wrong spigots - when you have it right, fill the tank to the point fuel flows out in the main position - now, turn the petcock to the reserve position, put the enrichener (choke) on full, try starting using no throttle - if lucky it will start and the fuel pump is primed - if no start, remove the fuel line from the carb or fuel pump (whichever is easier to get to), crank the engine and observe if fuel is pumping out of the pump - if it is, put the line back on and use starting fluid to try to start the engine - if still no start, get a new spark plug and start troubleshooting the fuel and ignition system - don't forget to check the compression.
There is 3 lines on the petcock - main tank, reserve and the feed to the fuel pump - you may have lost he prime on the pump - pull the line that goes to the fuel pump off the petcock - gas should flow out of the petcock in both the main and reserve position - if fuel only flows out in one position, that is reserve - if the petcock is in the reserve position then there's nothing wrong - if fuel flows out in the main position, but not in the reserve position, then the supply lines are on the wrong spigots - when you have it right, fill the tank to the point fuel flows out in the main position - now, turn the petcock to the reserve position, put the enrichener (choke) on full, try starting using no throttle - if lucky it will start and the fuel pump is primed - if no start, remove the fuel line from the carb or fuel pump (whichever is easier to get to), crank the engine and observe if fuel is pumping out of the pump - if it is, put the line back on and use starting fluid to try to start the engine - if still no start, get a new spark plug and start troubleshooting the fuel and ignition system - don't forget to check the compression.
Fuel is pumping out of the pump, on reserve and on full, the filter is full of gas, just changed the spark plug. It ran fine until I changed the petcock, lines are on correct
 

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It doesn't make any difference if the fuel filter is full or not - if there is air in the filter, it's fine - the fuel just flows past the air and through the filter.

OK - if you got fuel to the carb and the float bowl is full - try starting with starting fluid - if it won't fir with starting fluid, it's either flooded, has a bad spark plug (or other ignition problem) or the the compression is low - let us know what you determine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tried starter fluid, didn't work. Tried new plug didn't work, pulled out the plug and grounded it to the motor and it no spark. Removed ignition coil and tested with an ohm meter and it tested good. I have no way to check compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also the solenoid just went bad and I'm having to cross it over to crank the engine, would that have anything to do with it?
 

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Is the solenoid bad or is there another issue that the solenoid doesn't work. Are you getting 12v to the small terminal on the solenoid when you try to start it? Could be another issue causing your no spark problem.
 

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Yep, one side should be battery voltage that goes to the key switch and the other is the wire from the key switch/starter switch that operates the solenoid.
 

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No
Yep, one side should be battery voltage that goes to the key switch and the other is the wire from the key switch/starter switch that operates the solenoid.
Yep, one side should be battery voltage that goes to the key switch and the other is the wire from the key switch/starter switch that operates the solenoid.
No voltage to either one
 

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The two terminals the red arrows point to? One should have a brown (ground) wire and the other a white wire with a red stripe - w/r is 12v when the key is turned to start
 

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No need to worry about compression until you have spark.

To begin troubleshooting loss of spark - the first thing to do is eliminate all the switches - do this by unplugging the black wire at the CDI box - if sill no spark, you will have to troubleshoot the ignition system, but if unplugging the black wire gives you spark, leave the key switch in the on position then set your meter on ohms or continuity and connect one lead to the battery neg term and the other lead to the wiring harness black wire that was just unplugged from the CDI - if there is continuity to ground, open the throttle - if continuity is broken, adjust the throttle cable it is fixed - if there is still continuity unplug or operate the run switch on the handlebar - if there is still continuity after unplugging the handlebar switch, unplug the key switch - if there is still continuity, unplug the reverse limiter module - if the black wire still has continuity with everything unplugged, find where the black wire is shorted to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I unplugged black wire still no spark. You'll have excuse my I'm not the best at this lol, I checked for continuity between the black wire and negative on the battery and there isn't any.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have continuity at every place except the reverse limiter module and the black wire unplugged from the cdi box
 

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I have continuity at every place except the reverse limiter module and the black wire unplugged from the cdi box
That doesn't make sense since I don't know what you checked, but here's the deal.

Spark is killed by connecting the CDI to ground - the brown wire is ground - if you check from the battery negative terminal to any brown wire, you should have continuity - the black wire is connected to ground (brown wire) at the key switch, handlebar switch, throttle safety switch, and through the reverse limiter. The reverse limiter is connected to the alternator to determine engine RPM and to the transmission switch to determine whether in forward or reverse - in reverse it cuts ignition pulses at a preset RPM to limit speed, but the override switch will disable the speed limit function - in forward, the reverse prevents the AWD magnet coils from connecting to ground when the engine is above a preset speed - the AWD switch sends power to the AWD magnet coils, but if engine speed is above a certain RPM, the magnets are prevented from activating to prevent damage to the Hilliard clutches.

Not having spark with the black wire disconnected means there is a problem with the ignition - ignition consists of the stator, flywheel, CDI box, pulse coil, primary ignition coil, plug wire, spark plug cap, spark plug and the wiring between the components. No spark means a part failed or the connections are faulty. Usually it's a connection or a simple component like the plug, plug cap or coil wire. Sometimes it's a simple as a sheared flywheel key. The battery is not part of the ignition system - the battery only runs the starter motor and other electrical circuits.

I suggest you check the ground connection between the motor and the neg side of the battery first and progress from there.
 

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2002 Sportsman 500 HO, 2005 Trail Boss 330
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My Trail Boss 330 had similar problems. Got an updated Polaris ECM and its all better.
 
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