[Texasnad]

My '06 Sportsman HO EFI is having fuel pump problems. I have spent several hours reading all the many fuel pump threads and studying a manual and wiring diagram but have not found my problem.

In normal operating conditions, the fuel pump will not come on. In the course of troubleshooting, 12v was run directly to the pump which will come on and pump fuel. The engine will crank and run like this.

At the fuel pump 3 prong plug, the red/green wire is seeing 9.3 volts at all times, does not go higher when the key is turned on.

The pump coming on with 12v applied directly says continuity is good from the plug to the pump and a consistent 9.3v at the plug says continuity is good from the PDM to the plug.

Next step was to remove the PDM and check for obvious problems, thinking 12v is not getting through a solid state circuit breaker. The PDM appears normal, plugs are good, no damaged wires found, no foreign materials were found inside and there were no burn smells or marks.

This machine has not been run since April so the battery was brought to full charge with a 2 amp charger and the fuel tank removed, drained and fresh gas used.

Any ideas what my next step should be? Should I buy a new PDM? Could this be ECU related? Any thing to check in the ECU? Studying the wiring diagram, I could not determine an ECU output that effects the fuel pump.

Any ideas of where to go next would be greatly appreciated

 

[polman500]

The pump doesn't run on 12v...it is less than that. You may have damaged it by jumping 12v directly to it or it may have already been dead and 12v will make it run anyway even though it is toast. Put the NAPA pump in that is listed in AKstew's thread and you should be good to go.

 

[Texasnad]

Thanks for the reply but it leads to another question. I have seen multiple references in multiple threads about 13v to the pump for 2 seconds or so when the key is turned on and then the pump coming back on as needed to maintain pressure. What should the voltage be to run the pump? Also, when checked with an ohmmeter, the pump motor is not open or going to ground.

 

[polman500]

Sorry, I'm not positive about the voltage to the pump and I should have said so in my original reply but I think I remember it being something less than 12v. I'm not at the shop right now to check any reference materials.
Not sure about your machine, but if it has the two 1" square cube relays that plug in by the fuses under the little plastic cover below the headlight pod, try switching them out. They are the same and one runs the fuel system the other the cooling fan. Those relays sometimes get corroded and/or go bad. If that cures your issue, you can get a replacement at any auto parts store.

 

[Texasnad]

This machine does not use the relays. It has the power distribution module with the solid state circuit breakers.

Trouble shooting sure would be easier with relays

 

[Ddub]

I know its been a few years but did you figure out the problem?. Mine is having the same problem.

 

[latebird]

Here's the parameters of the fuel pump output of the PDM

With 12vdc to have 10 amps of current flow the resistance of the fuel pump windings will be approximately 1.2 ohms
If the resistance of the fuel pump is 1.0 ohm, 10 volts will result in 10 amps of current.
At a charging voltage of 14.8 volts applied to a 1 ohm fuel pump, the current is 14.8 amps

The service manual does not list (at least I didn't find it) the resistance of the fuel pump, but specifies the voltage to the pump be between 7 and 14 volts - if the pump does not run at 7 volts and produce 39 psi of fuel pressure, the pump needs to be replaced.

 

[polman500]

Yeah! What he said ^^^.
I never worried about resistance. It either makes and maintains the correct pressure or it needs changed. Only makes sense to replace the regulator too no matter how good it might be or not be. If one is feeling its age the the other probably is too.

 

[Jim brm]

I have the same problem with my 400. Pump quit, engine quit. Checking for voltage I get battery voltage for a length of time and the test light goes out. I turn the key off and back on and the light and voltage readings come back for a short time. I found the negative wire does not go to ground so I ask where does it go? Why is power applied for a short period.
Does the pump just supply fuel to the carb until a pump in the carb takes over? Does the pump have an internal pressure switch?

 

[latebird]

I have the same problem with my 400. Pump quit, engine quit. Checking for voltage I get battery voltage for a length of time and the test light goes out. I turn the key off and back on and the light and voltage readings come back for a short time. I found the negative wire does not go to ground so I ask where does it go? Why is power applied for a short period.
Does the pump just supply fuel to the carb until a pump in the carb takes over? Does the pump have an internal pressure switch?

You can't have the same problem - if the 400 has an electric fuel pump, it generally does not have a carburetor unless the vacuum pump was replaced with a low pressure electric pump.

I will guess the battery is dead (faulty) and it has voltage at rest, but dies shortly after the electrical system is activated.

 

[Jim brm]

I have a carb and fuel pump gut symptoms are the same. Battery is good. fuel pump does not run even if hooked direct to battery.

 

[latebird]

The 2013 RGR RANGER 400 MIDSIZE - R13RH45AG does indeed have a low pressure in line fuel pump part number 4011545 @ $220.50.

If the fuel pump does not run with battery applied voltage, it is obviously faulty.

I don't work on side x sides and do not have the 13 Ranger 400/500 manual number 9923949 so I have reached out to my cronies to see is anyone else has a PDF copy they will share with me.

 

[latebird]

Side note: I have located the manual in PDF format and sent you a PM

 

[polman500]

Oh, so the OP tacked his question onto an 8-year-old thread concerning a Sportsman 500 EFI but he actually has a Ranger 400 carbureted machine? Got to be a mechanic AND a detective to answer questions posted like that latebird lol.

 

[latebird]

OP posted under new members and gave a clue as to what he had - I then use my gift (my wife taught me to be psychic) to determine what he had and made my extrapolation from that.

 

[Jim brm]

You can joke all you want to, I love it. You seem to be a great bunch here. I want to thank you for all.

 

[polman500]

You can joke all you want to, I love it. You seem to be a great bunch here. I want to thank you for all.

I put you a link to a MUCH better pump than OEM at a fraction the price on your other thread OP
QFS Electric Fuel Pump for Polaris Ranger 400 2010-2014 # 4011492 4011545 | eBay

 

[Jim brm]

I did order one from Ebay. All the parts I have bought there have been better then factory. They keep my chain saws running too.
I forgot to mention the first failure on my 400, the gas cap lost the clear cover and then all the gauge parts fell in the tank. the float is still in there.

 

[polman500]

Quantum pumps are running in a lot of forum members machines. I don't recall hearing of any failures and they have a lifetime warranty if it should fail.

 

[Coloradoracer]

Quantum pumps are running in a lot of forum members machines. I don't recall hearing of any failures and they have a lifetime warranty if it should fail.

^^^This. I run one in mine after the factory pump failed at less than 1000 miles. Been great ever since, but last year the sending unit quit working right....shows about half tank when empty, and one segment below full when actually full....so went to quantum fuel systems again to see about a new complete unit. They are $160 new, but were on sale and I got it for $110. I'll get around to changing it out, but I'll have a spare pump after that as well....