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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I am new to the forum and I know this topic has been discussed to death as I have been researching it for the last few weeks. Just hoping to get some direct help as I have reached a kind of grey area in my repairs. The last ride this bike was on was about a year ago when the battery stopped charging and since then has been put aside. Two weeks ago I decided I would try to fix it now that the time and money was available and the weather was nice seeing how winter is over :). First I tried boosting the bike and there was nothing. First off I installed a brand new battery and starter and voila the bike is running/driving perfect! Now I'm trying to diagnose the charging issue. From what I've read I'm thinking the two causes could be the ECM (engine control module) or the stator? Correct me if I'm wrong, hence why I am asking for help. Any way to trouble shoot these to see what my problem is? First real electrical job so just seeking a few pointers! Thanks and sorry if I posted this in the wrong section etc.
 

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You can troubleshoot the Stator by tracing the 3 Yellow wires that come from it and go up to the ECM. With a multi-meter set it to continuity and remove the little plug for the Yellow wires, take one of the yellow wires and touch the red multi-meter lead to it and the take the other black lead and touch it to the frame, if you have any continuity at all it means that leg of the alternator is bad. repeat same test on other two legs of the alternator and see if they are also shorted to ground. All three of those yellow wires should have continuity to each other but not to ground.

As far the ECM its Kind of all boxed up, Its really not an "ECM" per say. it just contains the voltage regulator/rectifier/and self resetting circuit breakers/fan control as far as engine ignition and timing go those are controlled by the CDI.

There was a recall on the sportsman ECM's a while ago, I don't remember what years and models it covered though. I am sure a google search would answer that question for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does the battery light come on or the speedometer needle flash?
No because the battery is fully charged at the moment but if I let the bike run for a while yes the battery light will come on and the needle will start to flash. I should also add that I have checked the charging system and it definitely is not charging. It is putting out 12 volts with the bike not running and 12 volts with the bike running as well as being revved; not 14 volts as it should. I am working this evening but I will definitely try this test with a multimeter when I get off (I have never used one before so bear with me lol). Also I called Polaris this morning to check on recalls and sadly this one wasn't recalled :(. Again appreciate all the help guys! This is my first time using a forum!
 

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No problem, I've had the stator go bad on my 05 sportsman 400 twice now so I'm getting pretty good a troubleshooting them haha.

You should have 5 wires coming from behind the pull start housing or where the Bendix sits. 3 for the legs of the stator and 2 for the pulser coil. The two from the pulser coil go directly to the CDI and the 3 yellow ones go to the ECM under the front cover behind the toolbox. It may be necessary to remove the toolbox to get access to those wires.
On the multimeter there will be a setting for ohms of resistance, you can google what the symbol looks like. Looks kind of like a horseshoe. And you set that to one ohm. If you get any reading on the multimeter then its bad. It should say OL for overload meaning there is too much resistance... In other words it doesn't make a big circle from the red wire of the multimeter to the yellow wire down to the stator where it's shorted back threw the frame to the black wire of the multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No problem, I've had the stator go bad on my 05 sportsman 400 twice now so I'm getting pretty good a troubleshooting them haha.

You should have 5 wires coming from behind the pull start housing or where the Bendix sits. 3 for the legs of the stator and 2 for the pulser coil. The two from the pulser coil go directly to the CDI and the 3 yellow ones go to the ECM under the front cover behind the toolbox. It may be necessary to remove the toolbox to get access to those wires.
On the multimeter there will be a setting for ohms of resistance, you can google what the symbol looks like. Looks kind of like a horseshoe. And you set that to one ohm. If you get any reading on the multimeter then its bad. It should say OL for overload meaning there is too much resistance... In other words it doesn't make a big circle from the red wire of the multimeter to the yellow wire down to the stator where it's shorted back threw the frame to the black wire of the multimeter.
Just put the multimeter onto the stator wires and these were my results. With the ground wire of the multimeter grounded to the frame and the red wire of the multimeter touching the wires there is continuity readings. I did this with the bike off which I'm assuming is how to test it. However the lowest ohm setting on the multimeter I am using is 20ohms. The continuity climbs all the way to 20ohm so from what you're saying I'm assuming the stator is bad. Thanks again for bearing with me lol.
 

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Sounds like its toast to me. Basically if the needle moves at all or you get any reading of resistance "ohms" it means there is continuity. And continuity to the frame is bad. The charging legs should be completely isolated from the ground.
You could a different test with the engine running, same connections but change the setting on your multimeter over to ac voltage. As the stator produces ac voltage before it is rectified to DC at the ECM. You probably won't get any voltage from it if it is shorted, just another way to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Inside the case was all covered in rust and the stator coils looked burnt so I'm pretty sure it's toast. Got the inside all cleaned up and priced a stator at my local dealer..... $736.99 I almost threw up on the floor. He recommended RMstator.com? Just checking my options now
 

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RM stator is good. I had them for my second one....but I let water get in the housing, it froze. And one thing led to another and I needed number stator number 3. I believe I went with ricks motorsports electric stator which is based right of of NH where I live. And another good one is rickystator but I think they are a little more expensive. I think companies like Baja designs and trailtech may be able to rewind it for you if you want to go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just a quick update, I ordered a new stator and shipping is going to take about two weeks. I'll get back to you once the new one is installed and hopefully the battery will charge!! Thanks again
 
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