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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys just want out to plow after a nice 16" comes down (luckily I did it last night also) and after I let the machine warm up, I go to give it a little gas and the check engine light goes on and the machine sputters then dies. Happens in L and R. In neutral, I can rev it up no issues and no lights no sputter. Anyone suggest where to start looking?

I did a bunch of reading and it seems like since the CE light goes off each time, there is no code to try and pull
 

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If you are letting the engine idle to warm up and have the lights on too, the battery is low and may not have enough charge to fire the ignition - at idle the battery is operating at a loss , the charging system does not start to charge the battery until over appx. 2500 RPM. 15 minutes of idling requires 45 minutes to 2 hours of operation above 2500 rpm without use of lights and other accessories to recharge the battery. If you are intermittently operating above 2500 rpm (running and stopping - using a winch and the brake every 2 minutes) then you need to run above 2500 RPM continuously for about 8 to 10 hours to fully charge the battery. Get a maximum output of 1.25 amp fully automatic Battery Tender and use it to maintain the battery when not in use. ?Might want to get the charging system checked too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the thoughts. I actually did have it on a Battery Tender overnight I guess I should have shared that. The winch seemed to be working without issue as well. I did not notice any issues with any charging or electrical systems it also started up quickly each time. I Just read one of your other posts, and I'll start using my outlet timer to keep the tender running only a few hours at a clip. Good advice thanks
 

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Was it an actual battery tender (1.25 amp or less out put) that automatically reduces output when the battery reaches 80% charge and shuts down to 1 tenth amp at 90% charge or a 2 amp or higher battery fryer that charges continuously until disconnected?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is the Battery Tender band that has orange light when charging and green light when charged :unsure: I had not used the tender much lately other than a few overnight 'charges' before planned riding.
 

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Battery Tender has several different models, but yes, red (orange) light while charging at full output, flashing green from 80 to 90% and solid green when at 1/10 of an amp. I use a 750ma Tender on my CRF with a lithium battery and it has a switch for lithium or lead acid - I flip the switch and use the same tender on my VT1100 Shadow and TRX400EX

Additional info (from the manual):
During operation, the ECU continually performs a
diagnostic check of itself, each of the sensors, and
system performance. If a fault is detected, the ECU turns
on the “Check Engine” light in the speedometer and
stores the fault code in its fault memory. Depending on
the significance or severity of the fault, normal operation
may continue, or "Fail-Safe" operation (slowed speed,
richer running) may be initiated. A technician can
determine the cause of the “Check Engine” light by
referencing the “Instrument Cluster Trouble Code
Display” and “Diagnostic Trouble Code Table” or by using
Digital Wrench . The ECU requires a minimum of 7.0
volts to operate. The memory in the ECU is operational
the moment the battery cables are connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes a dealer trip seems to be in my near future. I just thought it was rather odd that the CEL only comes on during throttle, and goes off the second you let off the throttle. (vid in post#2) It seemed so specific that I figured others have had a similar issue
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Update it actually sends the CEL while the machine is off, but key is on. Trippy. Key is on machine off, touch the throttle more than a hair and the CEL comes on...

Found out that it is giving code 520 194/2 and /7. Seems related to the throttle cable when I wiggle it the light will come on or off
 

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In that case, try adjusting the cable - put a little extra slack in it, if that doesn't help, take some slack out - one or the other may fix the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I tried following the cable down to the motor to determine where it ends and if there is a sensor on the other end, if the connections are loose. It was pretty tight going down the ECU and I couldn't find it from below while wiggling it from above. Going to do some reading on it today and try to figure that out as it's my next step.

Also, interestingly enough, I saw a few videos that said the contacts in the case above the right thumb throttle should always be OPEN. That if they close, the engine will die. Well mine are closed to begin with, and the machine idles fine. The second you touch the throttle, even before giving it gas, just moving it a hair, the contacts open up, and the CEL comes on. I thought that was strange
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Awesome thanks. I see mine is working properly then.

I found this, these are the two codes I'm getting: Searching now.
136075
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Guys just wanted to circle back. I found a handful of posts that all pointed to the same thing, so I ended up trying it. The 4 pin connector that goes to the throttle had a bunch of mud in it from when I got stuck last week. Pretty incredible some mud can put those big machines to a standstill like that, but sure as heck I took the connection off cleaned it out added some bulb grease and after a few tries the code cleared. Go figure.

Thanks for the help- till next time.

 
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