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Discussion Starter #1
Okay I had a super loose chain tried to adjust it and couldn’t adjust anymore and it’s still pretty loose, does anyone know the length in inches so I can see if it stretched? And I have a small fuel leak I thought it might have been the carb ( bowl gasket) at first then I shut the gas off and it was still leaking anyone have any suggestions of what I should check next?
 

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Gas leak could be coming from one of the overflow vents. If that's the case the floats or float arm could be sticking a little causing more gas to come into the bowl then needed


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Gas leak could be coming from one of the overflow vents. If that's the case the floats or float arm could be sticking a little causing more gas to come into the bowl then needed


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Even with the gas turned off? Like it dripped enough through out the week to drain what was left in the tank(very little was in the tank less then a gallon)
 

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If you had the petcock in the off position (not the reserve) it's possible that the valve has gone bad. But if it had been on the whole time and if the float is stuck open then it would allow gas to continuously flow and come out the over flows


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I got a carb rebuild kit yesterday in the mail when I get chance to rebuild it I will, how would I check the petcock? I’m some what new to working on four wheelers
 

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Easiest way is disconnect the gas line at the valve. Have a cup or bottle ready and open the valve, then go to the off position. If gas continues to flow or drip then it's bad or going bad. They are cheap to replace $10-$15. Also check the gas line's. One could have a small Crack or split

Generally when someone rebuilds a carb the don't replace the floats. Most rebuild kits replace the Jets, needle. Choke barrel, gasket and idler screws and clean it. Even after they could stick a little. Mine were. Sprayed them with some dw40 and seemed to help.

I'm currently working on a 1987 trail boss 250. Had to replace the valve, rebuild the carb and replace every cable. Hopefully will get the rebuilt carb on tonight and see how it runs.


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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I knew about the kit and stuff I was going to see if the floats were stuck or cracked when I pulled it off I’ll check the lines Also and try the petcock cup thing as well thank you
 

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Okay I had a super loose chain tried to adjust it and couldn’t adjust anymore and it’s still pretty loose, does anyone know the length in inches so I can see if it stretched?
Simple - if it cannot be adjusted it needs to be replaced - chains don't stretch, they wear out - if each link of 100 link chain has 2 and 1/2 one thousandths wear, the chain is 1/4 inch longer than when manufactured and does fit the sprockets. Typically a chain with that much wear is running on worn out sprocket and both the chain and sprockets need to be replaced.

Here's some pics
In this pic a new sprocket is on top, a lightly used sprocket is under it and a worn out sprocket is under the used one.
139074
In this pic, I am attempting to illustrate the difference between a new and usable used sprocket - now the two sprockets have a different number of teeth (different circumference) so only one tooth can be aligned for illustration. Notice how the used sprocket tooth is slightly deeper and wearing on the face of the direction of force (the side the chain is pulling against).
139075

In this pic, the used sprocket exhibits wear on both the forward and rearward face of the tooth along with a deepening of the groove and an obvious beginning of a 'hook' - that hook develops as the chain wears, gets longer and is trying to make the sprocket fit the chain's dimensions.
139076


The usable sprocket came off a machine where the owner was just changing the gearing, the worn out sprocket came from a machine where the chain needed replaced due to wear and the sprockets were changed at the same time for multiple reasons (changing the ratio, converting from a std. alloy sprocket to a steel DID "Z" sprocket for longevity, reduced rolling resistance in heavy mud and the fact that the new chain would not fit properly reducing power transmission efficiency)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Simple - if it cannot be adjusted it needs to be replaced - chains don't stretch, they wear out - if each link of 100 link chain has 2 and 1/2 one thousandths wear, the chain is 1/4 inch longer than when manufactured and does fit the sprockets. Typically a chain with that much wear is running on worn out sprocket and both the chain and sprockets need to be replaced.

Here's some pics
In this pic a new sprocket is on top, a lightly used sprocket is under it and a worn out sprocket is under the used one.
View attachment 139074 In this pic, I am attempting to illustrate the difference between a new and usable used sprocket - now the two sprockets have a different number of teeth (different circumference) so only one tooth can be aligned for illustration. Notice how the used sprocket tooth is slightly deeper and wearing on the face of the direction of force (the side the chain is pulling against).
View attachment 139075
In this pic, the used sprocket exhibits wear on both the forward and rearward face of the tooth along with a deepening of the groove and an obvious beginning of a 'hook' - that hook develops as the chain wears, gets longer and is trying to make the sprocket fit the chain's dimensions.
View attachment 139076

The usable sprocket came off a machine where the owner was just changing the gearing, the worn out sprocket came from a machine where the chain needed replaced due to wear and the sprockets were changed at the same time for multiple reasons (changing the ratio, converting from a std. alloy sprocket to a steel DID "Z" sprocket for longevity, reduced rolling resistance in heavy mud and the fact that the new chain would not fit properly reducing power transmission efficiency)
Thanks for the info, I was going to just change the chain but I’ll look into getting the sprockets as well.
 

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What you are seeing is two differently designed float needles or a wrong needle in the correct seat.

The clip is so the weight of the float will pull the needle out of the seat if the needle sticks for some reason. The old needle sits much deeper into the seat which means it was not designed for a clip and if it was designed for a clip, the clip was removed so it would go unobstructed deep enough into the seat to close the opening. Either way, it was not right.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What you are seeing is two differently designed float needles or a wrong needle in the correct seat.

The clip is so the weight of the float will pull the needle out of the seat if the needle sticks for some reason. The old needle sits much deeper into the seat which means it was not designed for a clip and if it was designed for a clip, the clip was removed so it would go unobstructed deep enough into the seat to close the opening. Either way, it was not right.
I see what you mean either way I’m happy it not leaking gas anymore lol hey off topic question how do I get this guard off to get to the front sprocket. It seems to be welded on
 

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That guard is part of the frame and is not removable - I can't tell you what the procedure is - service manual is unclear, but describes removing the transmission
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gotcha, do you think cutting that plate out and just rewelding back on when I’m done would mess with the integrity of the frame?
 

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Gotcha, do you think cutting that plate out and just rewelding back on when I’m done would mess with the integrity of the frame?
That's doing it the hard way - I believe the sprocket can be replaced without that much effort.

See if you can get a pic of the sprocket from the rear and perhaps above where it is located inside the frame
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the brake is stopping from the top I might and that’s a huge might be able to get to it from the rear I don’t know if I have long enough retaining clip pliers
 

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Did the front as already removing the transmission. At that age of a machine, try a new chain and see how it does, if no slipping, go ride.
 

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Did the front as already removing the transmission. At that age of a machine, try a new chain and see how it does, if no slipping, go ride.
There’s no slipping or grinding but you can hear the chain bouncing I need to replace the bottom bushing on the shock I think that might help, even with a new chain I can’t get it really all that tight
 
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