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There’s no slipping or grinding but you can hear the chain bouncing I need to replace the bottom bushing on the shock I think that might help, even with a new chain I can’t get it really all that tight
Are you compressing the shocks (ratchet straps) and then attempting adjustment? Yours might be different from my 97 250 trail boss.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I’m using a ratchet strap and doing like latebirds picture says(I got a Haynes Manual for it, says the same thing) and once I decompress the rear end it goes super limp I’ll take pics once I get home maybe I’m doing something wrong I don’t know.
 

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Scratching my head. LOL. Is your eccentric hub staying tight after adjustment? I just used to tighten the eccentric bolts while still under roll back resistence with a punch still in the hole. Are you maxxed out on tightening rotation? Maybe mark it and compare after a hard ride if questionable. I may have compressed shocks more, just keep a small chain slack at full compression like it would be on a hard bottomed out landing.
139213
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Do you think a lower rear shock bushing would mess with it? And when tightening it you can literally see the slack in the chain starting. Everything’s right to bed of my knowledge I have to get either a different spanner or grind down one of the ones I have( the little piece that grabs it is too big
 

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Does your model have a pocket hole in the side of eccentric hub? I used screwdriver or rod in it which braced against the frame as I rolled the atv. Got a good and tight pull then lock it down. Got more leverage than a spanner wrench. I do not think the shock bushing is the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I’m using an hex key through the project to the hub it’s not a straight through hole I can only get to it from the tire side do you think I’m using something too small there’s play when it’s through the hole(this is the first time I’ve worked in a 4wheeler usually I only work on cars lol)tonight if I get time I’ll try some rod I have laying around that’s bigger then the hex key
 

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As long as the hex key allows you to roll the machine to full tightness, ok. Compress as much as you can. Then check Chain play after lockdown and release of compression. Does the eccentric hub rotate to make a Tight chain. Some slack will tighten when you sit on the machine.
 

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You tighten for the tightest point of the chain - get the axle, swing arm pivot and and transmission shaft in a straight line, rotate the wheels checking the chain for the tightest point - adjust for 1/4 inch play halfway between the sprockets, tighten everything, rotate the wheels again finding the tightest point - if everything is fine, then you are done - when you un-compress the suspension the chain will go slack (this is normal) as you adjust for the tightest point of the ARC of the suspension travel - if you adjust with the suspension relaxed and hit a sharp bump or put a heavy load on the rear, the chain will tighten to the point of breaking or perhaps even break the transmission case.
 
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