Here's the specs on the OEM carb:I found a drawing just now on manualslib.com that shows a spacer going above the e clip, as i look at the spacer i can see it is shaped to mate against the spring, i put the carb back together the way i took it apart but i am thinking i found the problem, its about an 1/8 inch spacer and if its wrong it has been holding my jet needle way to high making it run way to rich , i hope this is the problem, i am so sick of this one ATV holding me up on so many other things, lol.
Here's the breakdown on the carb
There is a thick plastic spacer under the needle e-clip and a spring seat on top of the e-clip
If it was a Mikuni BST-34 or 40 carb, then the assembly is as pictured - if it is a Chinese counterfeit, it's anybody's guess as to what is right. Only the carb manufacturer knows and they are many times defective. For my money, I would find one or two Mikuni carbs and get a quality Shindy or All Balls carb rebuild kit as a starting point.
I see you do not understand the operation of the CV carb.
As the velocity of air passing through the venturi increases, the slide rises - if you are holding the engine speed steady and the slide has risen 1/4 inch and you 'snap' the throttle open, the slide drops - this is in an attempt to keep the velocity of the air passing through the venturi constant - as the engine speed increases (and thus the velocity of air) the slide will rise - at idle the slide is usually only slightly 'bouncing' or is bottomed out and stationary - as you increase engine speed, the slide will rise and drop with the 'pulse' of air passing through the venturi as the intake valve opens and closes.
Being a mechanic is one thing, being a tuner is another thing and being able to solve a puzzle is extraordinary.
You have made excellent progress, not it's just a matter of getting it tuned - don't waste time on a POS Chinese carb, but don't get me wrong - there are quality Chinese carbs to be had - I have had success with KF Standard of Japan, Kun Fu and on small two strokes Sun, but it's easier to tune with Mikuni and Keihin because you can get parts - with the Chinese counterfeit carbs, they might look the same, but Mikuni and Keihin parts usually will not fit - the main jet for a Mikuni may not have the same threads as the Chinese carb and the main jet in the Chinese carb does not usually have a size stamped into it - this is because the Chinese size the jet to the flow characteristics of each individual carb - their quality control is not good enough for every carb to be jetted the same as the next one - thus 10 (or more) of the same brand, same size and same model of Chinese carb may all have different sized jets and since the drilled air passages are not precise, the settings of the slide needle and fuel screw are all different - there is no published factory setting - the setting is the setting that gets the carb from the assembly line to the box that it is sold in. When working with Chinese carbs, they must be calibrated for the engine they are installed on and that is the job of the mechanic installing the part and tuning the engine.