Polaris ATV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all and thank you for looking out! So Polaris magnum 1 is a 500. Owner said 02 but the frame has been rusted and painted. I can’t find it. But anywho it’s a 500. Some nice got in and ate up some of the wires in the front from the guy leaving it on his hunting club. He attempted to fix them with those wire sleeves you just squeeze instead of soldering. So with that said I have a slew of connectors. From looking at them they look like they are connected correctly but like I said that’s just looks. So before I get into that I should speak about the performance. The reason I received this bike is because while running when the key is shut off the bike continues, even when the key off and kill switch off bike still continues to run. So when I pulled it into the shop I went ahead and started on a service, carb clean, gas tank clean, fluid check whole nine. Went to start it and it seemed to have lost spark. Checked a few things and read a few forums, I found that I may have a kill switch issue. They said there was a black wire that went into a spade clip inside a little black box. When unplugged spark returns. So I made sure it was running good and it is. So now I’m trying to figure out my electrical problem. With the wire unplugged from that little spade clip. It will crank and run but will turn off with key or kill switch. But if I touch that black wire to the spade clip where it was it cuts off. This does not change with changing out key switches either. So any thoughts?

Magnum 2 is a 2005 330. When first received he told me he bought a run down quad threw a new carb in it and ran it for a hunting season. He never adjusted it or anything. He pull started it all season. So he wanted a service and to get his push start working. Solenoid did work at first. But while tuning and adjusting card, the continuous cranking and running killed it. Then I ended up having to replace. This is when I started having issues. I’ve tried two new solenoids and one does nothing, I’ve got my two main wires. Batt to solenoid and solenoid to starter. Then I have the small white with red tracer which has the push plug that goes on a stud of the solenoid(doesn’t have small plug with two wires like most) then I have a brown with a push plug for another stud and two small reds with regular circle connectors. I hooked the two push plugs on the two studs and then put the two small red wires to my batt wire which will allow the instrument cluster to light up, when key is turned it does one of two things. The solenoid will buzz or if I attach the solenoid to the frame like it supposed to be and turn the key the cluster goes off and doesn’t do anything unless I turn key back off and back on. Even with power to cluster and lights on, in neutral I pulled the coil wire off spark plug and hooked to a tester and back to frame to check and see if I had spark by pulling recoil and I got nothing so it seems I have a fail safe engaged somehow. Any help would be great.

Sorry for the long post, but I’ll be able to send pictures, videos, whatever is needed to prolong the process. Thank you in advance!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,532 Posts
#1 is simple - the black wire on the CDI box is the kill wire - touch it to ground to kill the spark - connect an ohm meter to the wiring harness black wire and ground (brown wire, frame, or engine) - if you get a low resistance, unplug the key switch, the LH handlebar switch, the black wire on the reverse limiter and open the throttle - if the ohm meter now reads open loop (OL), just figure out which kill switch is making contact and killing the spark - if the resistance is low with all 4 possibilities eliminated, find where the black wire is shorted to ground.

#2 - the white wire with the red tracer supplies 12 volts to the solenoid when the starter switch connects the red wire with the white tracer to the w/r wire - the brown wire is the ground for the solenoid - the starter motor wire goes to one threaded terminal and the battery positive and the chassis supply wires go on the other threaded terminal. With everything wired up, if you remove the w/r wire from the solenoid and jump from the battery pos to the terminal on the solenoid the w/r wire was on, the solenoid should close and the starter motor run. Same as the 500 - no spark? - unplug the black wire from the CDI to assure a kill device is not causing the problem - throttle safety switch is a common problem - too little slack in the throttle cable and the TSS kills the spark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the input Latebird. I will check on those things tonight. I’ll keep you posted


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
So for #1

I unhooked the key switch, the two LH handlebar switches. I don’t see the reverse limiter black. Unless that’s what I’ve been unplugging the whole time


With these three unhooked ohm letter on 20k it reads .01 when I open throttle it just keeps the 1 all the way to the left like this



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
As for #2

With solenoid to starter on one big terminal on solenoid, batt to solenoid of other terminal along with 2 red small wire on small terminal. White with red tracer pushed on small stud batt side and brown pushed on solenoid side, it clicks.

If I take white with red tracer off small stud and touch batt pos to small stud it clicks again.

No starter turn. Just for my humor I pushed boot off positive lead from solenoid that ties into starter and hooked my 12v batt box to it, and ground from my batt box to battery ground on quad. Turned it on and it just clicked. Did not spin over.

I pulled the kill lead from Cdi out of little black boxed spade clip, put a ground to spark plug and pulled the recoil and I have spark again. Lmao I’m confusing myself here lmao. Thank you for all the help though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,532 Posts
One of the units is mounted just below the coil - you need to move some wiring to expose it better - it looks like this
I need to know if the CDI unit has 2 two wire plugs or one 2 and one 3 wire plug (difference between early and late ignition systems - the reverse limiter might be incorporated into the CDI
137066
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
One of the units is mounted just below the coil - you need to move some wiring to expose it better - it looks like this
I need to know if the CDI unit has 2 two wire plugs or one 2 and one 3 wire plug (difference between early and late ignition systems - the reverse limiter might be incorporated into the CDI
View attachment 137066


Cdi has 2 two wire connectors coming off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,532 Posts
#1
OK - the 500 has the later style CDI - one 2 wire plug connects to the charging coils, the other 2 wire plug connects to the pulse coil, a brown wire that connects to ground, I believe a blu/wht wire to the coil and the black kill wire - since it starts and runs the only wires that could be connected incorrectly is the brown and black wires - I see black wire connected to brown wires - what's with that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
#1
OK - the 500 has the later style CDI - one 2 wire plug connects to the charging coils, the other 2 wire plug connects to the pulse coil, a brown wire that connects to ground, I believe a blu/wht wire to the coil and the black kill wire - since it starts and runs the only wires that could be connected incorrectly is the brown and black wires - I see black wire connected to brown wires - what's with that?
He did some work himself and then called me, but he’s got a black jumper to two brown wires



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,532 Posts
OK - so the black wire from the CDI unit connects to a black wire in the wiring harness? And it's that black wire that has continuity to ground? The reverse limiter is built into the speedometer - disconnect the speedometer to see if that disconnects the black wire from ground - gotta get rid of continuity to ground on the black wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
OK - so the black wire from the CDI unit connects to a black wire in the wiring harness? And it's that black wire that has continuity to ground? The reverse limiter is built into the speedometer - disconnect the speedometer to see if that disconnects the black wire from ground - gotta get rid of continuity to ground on the black wire.
The speedo was taken off when I took the top off to get inside where the key switch wiring is. It’s just a plug right now. Yes, the black wire coming from the Cdi connects to that black clip in the harness that’s shorting to ground, or continuity to ground, however you prefer. I know a simple bypass would be just to make a toggle kill switch or wire up one of those dirt bike kill switches. But idk what problems that may cause in the future. I did read that there were some models of these quads had this issue, it was either faulty Cdi or unknown issue. It didn’t really say what the actual issue was or how to fix it. It just recognized the issue. Have you dealt with this before? You seem really knowledgeable about Polaris or quads in general, is this a common thing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,532 Posts
Yes - I have dealt with it many times on various models. Some models of Honda operate identically, except they don't have the throttle safety switch.

Installing a separate kill button is an option and it will not cause any problems - it's just the easy way out. I like to find the actual problem and fix it.

Since the reverse limiter is part of the speedo and the speedo is disconnected and the key switch is disconnected and the handlebar switch is disconnected, that leaves the TSS and the wiring itself as the problem. You need to find where the TSS connects to the wiring harness and disconnect it. If the blk wire still has continuity to ground, then inspect the wiring to find where it is shorted to ground and repair it.

Beyond that, just install a dirt bike kill switch - it will not die when the key is switched off, you will have to use the kill button each time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The tss wiring starts in the throttle assembly on the handlebar right? Sorry I’m not to familiar with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,532 Posts
Yes - the throttle switch is in the throttle housing. If the switch closes it will kill spark - that's why I suggested holding the throttle open - if the cable was adjusted incorrectly, opening the throttle would open the switch - if there is a fault in the throttle housing, unplugging the switch will eliminate that as a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Okay so the contacts were touching

I adjusted the throttle cable and fixed that

I can’t for the life of me get this plug out. I see on the handlebar side a slot but I don’t see and push tab to release it and if I just pull it it seems like it wants to come but something has it restrained and I don’t want to break it. There some special way to get it out?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,532 Posts
Don't worry about the connector - if you have the cable adjusted so the contacts do not touch, did the continuity on the black wire disappear?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
No sir it still does the same thing. I didn’t test continuity after running the quad touching the two and watching it die. I figured that was a key indicator something is still flawed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,532 Posts
OK - well connecting the black wire on the CDI box to ground is how you kill the spark regardless of what switch or device does it. No connection - it runs - connect to ground it dies.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top