2000 Polaris Expedition Shifting Issue

7953 Views 28 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Gerk, 1 mo ago

Mymuskoka

Discussion Starter · Mar 29, 2020

My polaris has a foot shifter on the left side. It gets jammed between gears. This can happen while riding or at idle. Any ideas what it can be.

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bp405

· #2 · Mar 29, 2020

Have you tried to adjust the shift linkage??? hows the fluid look??

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Mymuskoka

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 29, 2020

bp405 said:
Have you tried to adjust the shift linkage??? hows the fluid look??

Im not at all familiar with these machines. I’ll need to check the oil but how do I adjust the linkage.

latebird

· #4 · Mar 29, 2020

3

It's more similar to a motorcycle engine - whether it's a 325 or 425 is not an issue - they used the same configuration in the transmission. See depictions - more text below

The problem is more likely in the shifter than the transmission, but could ultimately be in the transmission - the problem is if it is anything other than a binding shift shaft or a problem with the manual clutch release, it will require complete engine disassembly to repair, but whatever it is, it will require partial engine disassembly (removal of the clutch cover) - the first thing to do is inspect the external part of shift shaft to see if it might be something to do with movement of the shift lever - get the rear wheels off the ground, leave the engine off and while turning the rear wheels gently, move the shift lever by hand - when pushed down it should 'click' into gear and when you let off the lever it should spring back to the center - mark the case where the foot end of the lever stops (neutral position) - when pulled up (still turning the wheels) it should shift into the next gear and when released return to the same neutral position it stopped at when shifted down - if it does not return to the same position, it could be a binding or spring problem - if it sticks at the up position it's a binding problem, if it falls to the down position from the up position, it's a broken return spring.

I hope this helps

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Mymuskoka

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 29, 2020

Thank you for that detail. I will check all those things.

Cheers
Stay safe

Mymuskoka

Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 30, 2020

latebird said:
It's more similar to a motorcycle engine - whether it's a 325 or 425 is not an issue - they used the same configuration in the transmission. See depictions - more text below

View attachment 137878

View attachment 137876
View attachment 137877

The problem is more likely in the shifter than the transmission, but could ultimately be in the transmission - the problem is if it is anything other than a binding shift shaft or a problem with the manual clutch release, it will require complete engine disassembly to repair, but whatever it is, it will require partial engine disassembly (removal of the clutch cover) - the first thing to do is inspect the external part of shift shaft to see if it might be something to do with movement of the shift lever - get the rear wheels off the ground, leave the engine off and while turning the rear wheels gently, move the shift lever by hand - when pushed down it should 'click' into gear and when you let off the lever it should spring back to the center - mark the case where the foot end of the lever stops (neutral position) - when pulled up (still turning the wheels) it should shift into the next gear and when released return to the same neutral position it stopped at when shifted down - if it does not return to the same position, it could be a binding or spring problem - if it sticks at the up position it's a binding problem, if it falls to the down position from the up position, it's a broken return spring.

I hope this helps

Someone told me this particular year 2000 Expedition 425 has no trani fluid and it uses engine oil to lubricate the trani. Is this correct

latebird

· #7 · Mar 30, 2020

They were correct - the same oil is used to lubricate the engine, transmission and clutches - need to use a JASO rated oil - JASO oils are formulated to lube the tranny and not harm the clutches - oils with a API rating of SJ or higher should not be used - oils with friction modifiers (molybdenum) should not be used - mineral, synthetic or blend is fine as long as it is API rated SH or lower or JASO rated MA or MA2

Mymuskoka

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 13, 2020

latebird said:
They were correct - the same oil is used to lubricate the engine, transmission and clutches - need to use a JASO rated oil - JASO oils are formulated to lube the tranny and not harm the clutches - oils with a API rating of SJ or higher should not be used - oils with friction modifiers (molybdenum) should not be used - mineral, synthetic or blend is fine as long as it is API rated SH or lower or JASO rated MA or MA2

Mymuskoka said:
Someone told me this particular year 2000 Expedition 425 has no trani fluid and it uses engine oil to lubricate the trani. Is this correct

Turned out it the adjustment screw beside the shifter. There’s a small black cover that pops off and under that is a screw that can be adjusted. The screw was loose so i adjusted as per instruction (fully counter clockwise the 1/8 turn clockwise.) i tightened the nut that secures the screw from turning. So it shifts but there’s lots of play in the shifter. In other words it travels high to shift. Any idea how to reduce the travel distance.

latebird

· #9 · Apr 13, 2020

The adjuster screw beside the shifter is the manual clutch release adjustment - the manual clutch is operated by the shift lever to ease shifting by novice riders (no coordination or skill required) - if you practice, you will find that you can control the clutch with the shift lever. If you operate the lever up or down gently, you can release the clutch without changing gears. This can be useful when negotiating hills and mud. By becoming proficient with this, you can keep the engine speed constant and control the power application to the rear wheels instead of modulating engine speed to control power to the rear wheels. Utilizing this feature, you can reduce oil temperature and decrease wear on the centrifugal clutch parts.

Mymuskoka

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 13, 2020

latebird said:
The adjuster screw beside the shifter is the manual clutch release adjustment - the manual clutch is operated by the shift lever to ease shifting by novice riders (no coordination or skill required) - if you practice, you will find that you can control the clutch with the shift lever. If you operate the lever up or down gently, you can release the clutch without changing gears. This can be useful when negotiating hills and mud. By becoming proficient with this, you can keep the engine speed constant and control the power application to the rear wheels instead of modulating engine speed to control power to the rear wheels. Utilizing this feature, you can reduce oil temperature and decrease wear on the centrifugal clutch parts.

Thx for the tip. My shifter is a foot shifter not hand shifter. I find that there is too much range of motion when using the foot shifter. I would expect it to shift with minimal lifting just like a motor cycle. This is my issue im trying to resolve.

latebird

· #11 · Apr 13, 2020

This what I am trying to explain - the foot shifter operates the clutch ahead of the shifting function - so it does have more travel than hand operated clutch manual transmission. You have to release the clutch with the gear shift prior to the shift taking place. If you play with it you see that you can release the clutch without shifting by applying pressure to the shift lever.

Mymuskoka

Discussion Starter · #12 · Apr 13, 2020

latebird said:
This what I am trying to explain - the foot shifter operates the clutch ahead of the shifting function - so it does have more travel than hand operated clutch manual transmission. You have to release the clutch with the gear shift prior to the shift taking place. If you play with it you see that you can release the clutch without shifting by applying pressure to the shift lever.

Yes i totally understand what you’re saying. I just would have thought the shifter would only need to travel about 1/2 inch or so then release it to get it to shift but in reality it moves about 1.5 inches to get it to shift to the next gear. I dont have a reference point because I bought this machine used and its always travelled that distance to shift. I literary have to lift my leg up to shift ss opposed to just lifting my toe.

latebird

· #13 · Apr 13, 2020

Yep - normal characteristic of the semi-automatic clutch set-up.

You could shorten the shift lever, but that will increase the amount of pressure necessary to facilitate the shift which could cause fatigue.

Mymuskoka

Discussion Starter · #14 · Apr 13, 2020

latebird said:
Yep - normal characteristic of the semi-automatic clutch set-up.

You could shorten the shift lever, but that will increase the amount of pressure necessary to facilitate the shift which could cause fatigue.

Thx for all your help. Appreciated and good to know its normal.

Cheers

stangkag

· #15 · Apr 20, 2022

Does anyone know if there's a place selling replacement shift shaft parts for these 425 Xpeditions? It's a 2000 model. Thanks

latebird

· #16 · Apr 20, 2022

stangkag said:
Does anyone know if there's a place selling replacement shift shaft parts for these 425 Xpeditions? It's a 2000 model. Thanks

Nope - need used parts or to get them custom machined at a machine fab shop (if it's worth fixing).

stangkag

· #17 · Apr 20, 2022

6

I'd need to source alot of worn shifter parts. Engine runs great though, starts first pull but its stuck in 1st gear.

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latebird

· #18 · Apr 20, 2022

powersportsnation.com

motolane.com

facebook marketplace

Look for a 2000 to 2002 Xpedition 325 or 425 - they used the same shifter parts.

The springs are still available - part 3086309

stangkag

· #19 · Apr 20, 2022

You're a lifesaver, thank you so much. This is foreign to me and this info helps a bunch...cheers Kyle

Bluetick

· #20 · 4 mo ago

Latebird,

I recently bought an Xpedition for cheap because it did not shift. Currently I have the clutches off and the shift shaft out. I can move the shift cam from neutral to first by hand, but when the shift shaft is on I cannot get it to shift at all. Any chance something on the reverse side of the trans is holding this up, or is it time to slip the case and inspect the drum and shifting forks?.... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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