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2000 Sportsman 500 speedometer electrical issue

6K views 9 replies 2 participants last post by  lateburd 
#1 · (Edited)
I've had this Sportsman for around 5 years and love it but the person before me made a lot of electrical modifications. Of course, the speedo didn't work but they did the bypass to get AWD to still function. I decided to cave in and bought a new speedometer and speed sensor - which I hooked up properly.

However, now when I start the machine, the speedometer lights up but the needle doesn't move. If I flick the high beams on and then go back to "off," it starts working. When either low or high beams are on, it stops working. Anyone have any idea how I can fix?

The previous owner had taken out the accessory plug, wired the winch to only function on low beams, and who knows what else. The electrical is all messed up.

If I know that the speedometer and sensor are both brand new and work, is there anything I can do to directly connect it to the ignition or somewhere else to get this to work all the time?

Any help would be so appreciated. Thanks!
 
#2 ·
I know I could fix it, but I would have to know what cobbling was done to correct it.

Figure out is it is an early build (one 3 wire plug and one 2 wire plug on the CDI) or late build (2 two wire plugs on the CDI) - use the appropriate wiring diagram and verify every wiring connection and then if the problem is not corrected, trouble shoot the instrument and instrument wiring.
 
#6 ·
Sounds like maybe either the lights are sapping the power from the red/wht wire or the lights are grounding through the speedo - check all the vehicle ground connections and ground wire for continuity.

I worked on an old Kaw 900 - the owner had a Vetter fairing and a stereo - the complaint was when the turn signals were used, the streo turned on and off as the lights flashed - lights on, stereo off - lights off, stereo on. Traced the problem to a broken ground wire at a factory splice inside the wiring harness behind the headlight.
 
#7 ·
I think this might actually be a bad voltage regulator. Doesn’t seem like the battery is charging and everything works after I fully charged it. It appears like it wasn’t getting enough juice (even though it’s a brand new battery). We’ll see in a few days when I get a new one installed! 🤞🏻
 
#8 ·
@latebird OK, so I replaced the voltage regulator and my battery is still at 12v running, so maybe I have an issue with the stator. It looks like it's a late-2000 model. Is there a simple way to test the stator without taking the whole thing apart? I see instructions for testing 3-wires but not 2-wires. Also, do you happen to know the part number for the 2-wire stator?

These are the two connections to the CDI, right? Seems like 2 and 2?
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#9 ·
Yes - there is a simple test that does not require removal and the engine has to be running for some of the tests.

Of course I have the part number for the stator.

Use the drawing to understand what you are going to be doing.

If the engine runs, the two 2 pin plugs are of no concern. You need to make the tests on the yellow and yellow/red wires at the rectifier/regulator.

Test 1) check continuity between the yel and yel/red wires and between either wire and ground (brown wire or frame) - the results should be
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. If there is continuity from either yel wire to ground, the test is over and the stator needs replaced. If all tests good; go to test 2.

Test 2) with the engine running, check the AC voltage between the yel and yel/red wires - voltage should rise with an increase in RPM to as high as perhaps 100 volts. Record the voltage at idle and at 3 to 5 thousand RPM.

Test 3) connect the yel wires into the rec/reg (either plug them together or use jumper leads) what you need to do is check the AC voltage again with the stator connected to the rec/reg. You may need to pierce the insulation or back probe the connector, but however you do it, you need to measure the AC voltage when the stator is trying to charge the battery. Again record the voltage between idle and 3 to 5000 rpm. At about 2500 rpm the AC voltage should be above 30 and continue to rise to perhaps as much as 45 volts at 5000 rpm. If the voltage is less than 28 volts at about 2500 rpm or never rises above 30 volts at 3000 rpm, then the stator lacks sufficient output to charge the battery and the stator or the flywheel needs replaced. Generally it's the stator - flywheels don't typically fail unless the magnets loosen, crack or the flywheel has been damaged by corrosion, impact or improper removal.

Final test) (the final test must be performed with a fully charged battery and all high current draws (including the lights) turned off or removed) - connect the meter to the battery terminals - record the DC voltage with the key off - turn the key on and the voltage should drop a volt or maybe two, but no more (unless high current accessories are active with the key on). If the battery voltage drops to less than 11.5 volts, remove the high current load or replace the battery.

Start the engine and increase rpm - at about 2500 rpm the DC voltage across the battery terminals should start to increase - with the engine running at about 3000 to 3500 rpm, you may see the voltage increase to mo more than 14.8 volts - at 14.8 volts, the voltage should decrease to about 13.2 before again increasing to 14.8. What you are observing is the voltage regulator cutting in and out to maintain the battery charge.

Note: a fully charged battery in good condition will register about 12.8 to 13.2 volts after setting 4 hours with no load after having been removed from a quality automatic 750ma to 1.25 amp battery charger. Do not charge a battery at a rate above 1.25 amps for 5 to 10 hours. If the charger is rated at 1.5 to 2 amps, charge for 4 to 6 hours. Do not use a charger above 2 amps without constant monitoring. A 750ma charger may take 24 to 48 hours to fully charge the battery.

Any questions?

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#10 ·
BTW - the stator part number is 3086984 @ $530 from Polaris - much less from an after market source and the aftermarket stators are of equal (and sometimes better) quality. The hard part is the recoil cover and the flywheel have to be removed to install a new stator.
 
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